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Dana 30 farkle

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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Dana 30 farkle

I finally have a front end to be proud of. No, it's not a ProRock 44, but I'm plenty confident in its integrity ... EVO Magnum sleeves, RCV axles, Dynatrac Pro Steer Ball Joints, Rock Krawler tie rod, Teraflex steering stabilizer and OME 619s for the front (4DR heavy on a 2DR). I had previously beefed the end forgings with EVO gussets and added EVO lower control arm skids and a SOLID diff cover (those items came last summer when I regeared), so I should be good to go with my new 35s. Cheers!








Last edited by opdsgt; Jun 5, 2010 at 04:15 AM. Reason: uploaded new photos after degrease and paint
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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How much for the setup?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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Well, if you're asking about parts prices, I got everything from Northridge and pricing is there on the site...

If OTOH you're asking about labor costs, sleeves were 3hrs x $70/hr; the ball joints were about the same; regearing both diffs (did this last year) was about 8hrs @ the same rate.

The rest of the stuff I've done myself or with a forum pal who lives nearby.

EDIT

RCV axle set: $1,050
Pro Steers: $595
EVO sleeves: $165
EVO gussets: $90
EVO LCA skids: $35
Krawler tie rod w/TF SS: $150 (used)

TOTAL = $2,085

Thus, for about two grand, I've got a much improved and dare I say totally satisfactory Dana 30 front end.

Last edited by opdsgt; Jun 4, 2010 at 03:35 AM. Reason: yo, Jason!
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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I like the RCV shafts. I'm doing a similiar build to eek out some life for my Dana 30. I just can't quite afford an $8000 front axle. Aussie Locker, PP Sleeves & Gussets, TNT Axle Truss, Crown ball joints, crown linkage (ALL) ran just at $1300. I paid a buddy $100 bucks and some breakfast burritos to do the welding. The rest I sweated. Should hold up until I hit the lottery and order my DynaTracs.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Under Dawg
relocate that stabilizer and you're good to go
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 03:20 AM
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Cliff, I don't think you're going to have to worry about your D30 anytime soon. Are you on 35s as well? I know little about Crown, are they superior to the c-r-a-p factory ball joints? Anyway, you're right, a guy can stout up a Dana 30 for a reasonable amount of cash.

geebee, help me out. It's in the stock location (and I didn't hit the stock one); my rig grew 2.25" of ground clearance when I went to my MTRs.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Under Dawg
geebee, help me out. It's in the stock location (and I didn't hit the stock one); my rig grew 2.25" of ground clearance when I went to my MTRs.
i had to find something.... . i upgraded to the teraflex HD SS like yourself (2-door, 35s)...and figured instead of possibly smacking it why not move it up and out of way. you have the beefy tie rod why have an easy target hang below that... tuck that sucker up.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 04:00 AM
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First off, job well done! Second, wow thats a lot to throw into a D30. I have been totally happy with mine thus far, but because my plans for the future are for 38s, maybe larger I'm thinking I will need a ProRock 44 at minimum. You plan to run larger than 35s at any point? I'm guessing you could run 37s pretty hassle free with this set up? No? I guess the weak point would be the R&P then?
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 06:35 AM
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geebee, I guess it makes some sense. Is there a relocation kit you used? Links, etc?

joneszj, it took me forever to come to the conclusion I wanted to go from 33s to 35s; I do not anticipate ever going larger than the tires I have now (maybe 37s if I had an Unlimited). In any event, I think you're right, the weak link -if there is one now- is the ring and pinion, but a guy can destroy the R&P in virtually any light truck axle if he tries hard enough. For instance, via a big shock load (e.g. front wheels in the air, spinning fast with a lot of gas pedal, then touching down on a high traction surface like the slickrock in Moab). Personally, I employ a pretty careful, slow and deliberate driving style, so I truly believe my Dana 30 is now up to the demands I put on it. And we can't forget, this is not your father's Dana 30 to begin with, the JK's high pinion, reverse cut axle is appreciably beefier than what came before it.

e-jeep, thank you for the compliment. I have to say though, I have Dynatrac pricing materials the company sent me when I was making my decision on what direction to go, and unless I'm reading something wrong, you darn sure can't get a ProRock 44 for what I have invested in my D30. Also, ProRocks don't come with ProSteers or a solid steel RK tie rod w/drag link ends, so you can tack on another $900 to your price if you want to include those upgrades in your pending 44 purchase. I'm just sayin' . . .
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by e-jeep
Great work brother. JMHO ...and only cause I have a 1 year plan to upgrade my front axle ...for that price you could have bought a ProRock 44.
That $2k would get him the ProRock 44 housing and nothing more. As far as I know the only thing that you could transfer over to the ProRock from a D30 are the steering knuckles and brakes everything else you would have to buy resulting in another $2K easily.
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