Dana 60's without Electronics?
I have been in the market for dana 60s and i think i am going to build my own. I will be using a 79 ford dana 60 kingpin for the front and 2001 dodge van 60 for the rear. Im wondering what happens if i loose the abs wires to the axles front and rear. What all will i loose and can i just pull the fuse to end the dash light problem. Would it benefit me to run the electronics or does it really not make a difference. My jeep is a DD.
Thanks
Thanks
Unfortunately it will cause you to lose your ABS, traction and stability control systems. This will give you all kinds of lights and make your jeep virtually unsalable in the future (depending on the state, like CA, it would cause you to fail smog - significantly decreasing the value of your rig).
Also, kits exist that allow you to build your axle and keep your electronics. For example, runniing the Solid hub kit up front, or the Currie 60 unit bearings, as both accept the tone ring set ups. Right now it's tough to beat a built rear 60, even when building your own. I paid $3150 for my Rock Jock rear HP60. It kept the electronics and runs alloy shafts and an ARB with 5.13 gears. The front is a different challenge unfortunately.
As your daily driver I suggest you build it right to keep your keep running, reliable and resalable.
Also, kits exist that allow you to build your axle and keep your electronics. For example, runniing the Solid hub kit up front, or the Currie 60 unit bearings, as both accept the tone ring set ups. Right now it's tough to beat a built rear 60, even when building your own. I paid $3150 for my Rock Jock rear HP60. It kept the electronics and runs alloy shafts and an ARB with 5.13 gears. The front is a different challenge unfortunately.
As your daily driver I suggest you build it right to keep your keep running, reliable and resalable.
Unfortunately it will cause you to lose your ABS, traction and stability control systems. This will give you all kinds of lights and make your jeep virtually unsalable in the future (depending on the state, like CA, it would cause you to fail smog - significantly decreasing the value of your rig).
Also, kits exist that allow you to build your axle and keep your electronics. For example, runniing the Solid hub kit up front, or the Currie 60 unit bearings, as both accept the tone ring set ups. Right now it's tough to beat a built rear 60, even when building your own. I paid $3150 for my Rock Jock rear HP60. It kept the electronics and runs alloy shafts and an ARB with 5.13 gears. The front is a different challenge unfortunately.
As your daily driver I suggest you build it right to keep your keep running, reliable and resalable.
Also, kits exist that allow you to build your axle and keep your electronics. For example, runniing the Solid hub kit up front, or the Currie 60 unit bearings, as both accept the tone ring set ups. Right now it's tough to beat a built rear 60, even when building your own. I paid $3150 for my Rock Jock rear HP60. It kept the electronics and runs alloy shafts and an ARB with 5.13 gears. The front is a different challenge unfortunately.
As your daily driver I suggest you build it right to keep your keep running, reliable and resalable.
currie and solid do not make kits for a 78-79 ford kingpin.
the only person who does is riverraider and they sell it with a rear combo for a 14 bolt which i will not be running. i realize i will loose abs and esp but i dont think that really is a concern
I realize the kingpin is preferred, but a balljoint front end is fine for a jeep too. Is this a case where you scored a great price on the components?
Also, not having the ABS and ESP may be fine now, but if you plan to sell it, it could cost you several thousand in re-sale...
I'm selling a fully built TJ currently and everything works on it. The difference in market price between mine and a non-smog is about $7K. Be sure you want to keep it. This JKU is Jeep number 6 for me.
Also, not having the ABS and ESP may be fine now, but if you plan to sell it, it could cost you several thousand in re-sale...
I'm selling a fully built TJ currently and everything works on it. The difference in market price between mine and a non-smog is about $7K. Be sure you want to keep it. This JKU is Jeep number 6 for me.
I can get a dana 60 kingpin built with an ox or arb locker for 3750 but thats no electronics but i am thinking i have to have the rear electronics for speedometer and if thats the case i will just upgrade the front when i buy the rear
I think you have a front 30 currently, not a 44 correct?
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yeh i have a 30 front and want to go with the same tires and wheels you have actually and then ox lockers front and rear with 5.38s and the works


