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Torque issue

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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:59 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
It happens. You weren't torquing the front uppers to 125, were you?
Nope, sure didnt.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 04:36 AM
  #12  
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I replaced the bolt, I could not find a grade 8 that was the same length, was a little bit too long. So the bolt I found, I spaced the head with a couple of washers, should this be fine, will I have any issues retaining the torque on this bolt?
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 05:30 AM
  #13  
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What ended up being wrong with the original bolt? You might have a problem with the nut, too.

OEM Parts:
Bolt, 06104265AA, $8.35
Nut & Retainer, 06508598AA, $2.35

These are pretty important pieces. Maybe even corrosion resistant coating on them. I suspect the bolt strength is greater than grade 8, but, I don't know for sure. Not knowing would make me want to get the OEM bolt and nut.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #14  
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Nothing appeared to be wrong with it, damn thing just wouldnt torque. My guess is it had too much "spring" in it and was probably about to pop. Factory probably overtorqued it or something and ruined the bolt
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 08:53 AM
  #15  
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Well I ordered a replacement bolt, the retainer nut is on backorder, figures
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 09:20 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
What ended up being wrong with the original bolt? You might have a problem with the nut, too.

OEM Parts:
Bolt, 06104265AA, $8.35
Nut & Retainer, 06508598AA, $2.35

These are pretty important pieces. Maybe even corrosion resistant coating on them. I suspect the bolt strength is greater than grade 8, but, I don't know for sure. Not knowing would make me want to get the OEM bolt and nut.
The bolt is a standard metric 10.9, equivalent to grade 8.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 11:07 AM
  #17  
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I personally think your better off with a standard grade 8. I ordered a brand new OEM trk bar bolt for my wifes TJ, Broke the original off trying to torque the bolt. Had to put in a grade 8 to get by with until the new one came in. The new one came in along with a new flag nut. Torque on the TJ is lower. The OEM would not torque to 55ftlbs, it snapped. Put the grade 8 back in , no probs. I also noticed when trying to check torque on my jk rear control arms, it seemed like they were fixing to snap. Wouldn't torque to 125. I replaced both lowers with grade 8's, torqued, no prob. I don't think all these OEM bolts have the same quality as standard grade 8's. Just my opinion.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 11:20 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
I personally think your better off with a standard grade 8. I ordered a brand new OEM trk bar bolt for my wifes TJ, Broke the original off trying to torque the bolt. Had to put in a grade 8 to get by with until the new one came in. The new one came in along with a new flag nut. Torque on the TJ is lower. The OEM would not torque to 55ftlbs, it snapped. Put the grade 8 back in , no probs. I also noticed when trying to check torque on my jk rear control arms, it seemed like they were fixing to snap. Wouldn't torque to 125. I replaced both lowers with grade 8's, torqued, no prob. I don't think all these OEM bolts have the same quality as standard grade 8's. Just my opinion.
When I was torqueing the 10.9, on the rear, passenger upper control arm, connected to the axle it felt like it got looser after 121ftlb, I was getting ready for it to snap. So I went to Lowes and got a grade 8 bolt. I could not find a bolt at the right lenght so I put in 4 washers before the head of the bolt, then on the other side put a lock washer, regular flat washer, then nut. Should this be good?
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:19 PM
  #19  
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It seems the evidence is stacked against the OEM hardware.
Thanks for making me do some homework.
Check this site h**p://www.americanfastener.com/technical/grade_markings_steel.asp

Is the grade 8 bolt the same diameter as the OEM metric bolt?
Is the length of un-threaded portion of the two bolts the same?
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