Welder question...
 

I have a few projects I would like to try and tackle myself, with no welding experience. I want to put a purejeep backbone on my front d44, weld up an oil pan skid, and maybe fab up a rear winch plate. What inexpensive welder should a noob like myself look for to tackle these projects?

I have seen a $90 harbor freight welder and $500 miller and Lincoln welders at home depot/lowes. I don't want to break the bank if I don't need to, but I want to get an appropriate welder to try and tackle some of these projects myself.

I'm a newb to welding and find the millermatic series easy to use. Its takes the guess work out....also using a bottle of blue shield gas keeps the welds looking good helps with heat penetration .....

That $90 HF welder is only gonna allow you to weld with flux core wire. You will learn to hate it in very short order. If you want to go with the HF stuff, their dual MIG 151 is a good machine that you can get for about $250. I have one and use it all the time, It just finished building my front bumper. (I am sure a lot of guys on here are gonna chime in here about how crappy the HF MIG 151 is.) If you have the cash to spend, the Miller automatic set machines kick ass. My dad got one for Christmas and it rocks!

A good 110v machine (ie; lincoln, miller or hobart) will be at its maximum welding 3/16" mild steel and will have a low duty cycle welding at that amperage.

Going up to a 220v machine will cost more but you will be able to get more done with it, higher amperage and higher duty cycles.

I recommend Hobart, they are the same internals as miller (Miller and Hobart are subsidiaries of each other i just cant remember who owns who) So you get the Miller technology at a lower price. Up until a few years ago the Hobart machines still had Miller stamped on alot of their parts.

All the new machines from Miller, Lincoln and Hobart use multi voltage plugs so you can use them in 110v outlets (with reduced weld output) and when you need the extra oomph plus them into you dryer outlet (with an adapter or have a Nema 6-50p oulet wired into you garage).

If you invest the extra few bucks into a capable machine and you have intentions to use it frequently it will pay off compared to cheaper units. HF i have been told is like our Princess Auto up here in Canuckistan, and I would never recommend them to my friends.

You might want to check out the machines eastwood put out, I`ve never used them so I cant give an opinion on them but they look decent, and from what Ive dealt with from eastwood I have been happy. And you can get a 175amp Mig machine with aluminum spool gun for 500 bucks.

You might also want to read up on backbone's (truss's) before you weld anything on. If they aren't done correctly and welded in the key points and level, it could actually WEAKEN your axle. How can it weaken your axle you ask? Well, read up and you'll see....

Respectively, I say you should think about welding it on yourself, and in fact, if you should even bother with one. So, if you really are dead-set on strengthening your axle with a truss or backbone type support, I suggest getting it professionally welded. :beer:

Agreed, any welding on anything can weaken the existing structure. Heat soak, undercut, notch effect, under welding, over welding, lack of fusion, poor fit up, improper joint design, improper fixturing, quenching, selecting improper filler material, are all weld failures. Just because it sticks doesn't mean its going to hold.

If you are welding to a cast steel axle housing you will have to heat it up till it is red hot before you weld.

No, never heat anything red hot, as soon as it becomes red you change the temper of the material. General rule of thumb, material 3/4" and up needs to be heated to about 100f to remove any moisture from it, just sweat it out. If its under 3/4" you need no preheat at room temp. If its -40 out then preheat but not red hot, not even blue, just warm to the touch.

Heating something up red hot and then cooling it can cause quenching, the material contracts to fast and becomes brittle, it will change the hardness of the material. Also a material at red hot is almost at a molten state and the oxygen in the air can start affecting the material as well, like welding with no flux, you will oxidize the material faster.

Guys,

Thanks for all the input so far, but Purejeep has posted they way they recommend welding their truss so I prefer to discuss the welders and not how or why I should do the truss install. I trust their install directions.

In case anyone is interested here is what they said...

"We suggest your do the following.....

1. Clean & Prep The Axle For Welding
2. Heat Up The Axle(Area Of Weld)To Around 110* - 125*
3. Place PUREJEEP Backbone On Axle (No Preload Needed)
3. Stitch Weld A 1"Pass& Alternate Sides(DoNotOverHeat TheAxle)
4. Clean & Prep For Paint"

While I know you said you looked at their site and they have the installation steps, it also says "Installation by a professional highly recommended!" Again, I know you wanna "try it out" and learn... so did I, and most of us im sure being that we all wanna save money too. All I'm saying is, there are bigger issues that will arise rather than just the sloppy welds. Its a big part of your jeep, and if anything happen, it could be lots of money, or worse. Just because they post up the installation doesnt mean you just became a certified level 3 welder.

I say this cause I'm just lookin' out for ya and your wallet and safety. I'm no genious, but its not as simple as following directions on their site and welding away.... youre not puttin together a bookcase(although sometimes things like that are insanely hard to put together. :beer: TGIF