Hey guys, I am about to put new tires on (35's) Looking at Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.5/17 With a set of Fuel Mavericks 17 (I do need help understanding back spacing I want them to stick out a little but nothing crazy) however that's not the main thing.

Ok so I chopped the finders into flares thinking I could run 35's no lift, but I actually wan't it a little higher now. So this is what I'm thinking TeraFlex 2.5 lift kit w/o shocks (would like to know the difference between the 1351000 and the 1352000 if anyone knows) and Rancho 9000XL shocks.
(((so my main question is this can I fit 35's no rub and full articulation with that set up???)))
(((and do I need to worry about changing anything else if I go this route? IE: any relocation brackets, track bars upgrades or add on to any other parts that might be affected because of the lift in the long run?)))

Lastly if I'm going about this wrong (it is my first build) I'm open to other ideas... 90/10 on/off

Thanks for your time and insight whoever helps out!

 

This exact lift is going on my 2014 Sahara tomorrow. I am also installing geometry correction brackets from AEV because I don't want to buy all new control arms. I would also suggest adjustable track bars for front/rear. If you're planning on doing serious off roading, you're going to need to do more, but for a daily driver that should be enough

 

Oh and you need 4.5 backspacing. Which is -12 offset on a 17x9 wheel

 

4.5" bs on a 9" wheel would be a 0 offset. -12mm would be closer to a 5" bs

 

I think you've got your numbers fudged, -12 on a 9 wide is 4.5. Google a backspace calculator

 

Just a quick word of advice. Delete your post very quickly if you can. Best not to reply to one of the resident experts with that response. Especially when you're wrong.

 

? Why? I wasn't rude, and I've been looking up rims for the last 2 weeks before I bought mine. Even experts can be wrong

 

Wasn't trying to imply you were rude. Little sure of yourself maybe, but not rude. Commenting to someone who essentially lives the info being discussed to google it is probably not sensible imo. If your friend is wiring his house, and you tell him something, then an electrician corrects you; saying he is wrong and to google it is analogous to this. Experts CAN be wrong. But best to trust them over a 2-week google expert. I was actually trying to help you avoid a little embarrassment actually. But oh well, for not. Essentially, do you understand all the nuances of online calculators? Assuming so, you also understand offset and backspace, right? So, at offset of 0 on a 9 in. rim, backspace is? Half of 9? 4.5 right? Plugging 9 into an online calculator typically calculates backspace, offset, etc for a 10 in. rim. I hope your order turns/turned out correct.

 

Jeez, and I'm full of myself? You're also wrong. With 0 offset, you don't just cut the listed rim width in half and assume that's your backspace. You need to add a half inch for the lip. Which is why you need the -12mm (using google you can see this equals a half inch) to bring it back to 4.5 on a 9 inch rim. Thanks for not embarrassing me though

 

From Tirerack.com

Offset

(Lea en español)

Offset diagram
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*

"The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel."

Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive
The hub mounting surface is located in the front half of the wheel closer to the wheel face. This tucks the entire wheel in toward the brakes and vehicle suspension. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front-wheel drive cars and newer rear-wheel drive cars.

Negative
The hub mounting surface is located in the back half of the wheel closer to the back lip flange. This moves the wheel out away from the vehicle brakes and suspension. "Deep dish" wheels and wheels for lifted trucks are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. Often, when changing the width of the wheel, the offset will also need to change to maintain proper clearances inside the wheel well. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We test fit thousands of different vehicle and wheel size combinations to confirm which ones work correctly. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.

*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches).

examples:

9" divide by 2 = 4.5" this equals a 0 offset
10" divided by 2 = 5" add a -12mm offset would place it at 4.5" of back space.

no big deal I do make mistakes from time to time.

Note that the wider the wheel the better clearance you will get from the tires due to the tire bulge affect which most people ignore when sizing tires and wheels. 1/2 of the increase in tire height should also be added to the amount of bump stop you have as well to prevent rubbing on the fenders when wheeling with the sway bar disconnected. Longer travel shocks may also decrease the amount of tire to fender clearance and you may require more bump stop and wheel backspacing.