working on a plan for a new Jeep build thought you guys could look over it and see what im missing or add input. pretty much it is not a daily driver, it will be the family vehicle, we all pack in and go camping fishing wheeling or just take a ride with the top down doors off.
offroad is a mix of mud, rocks, plenty of hills. its eastern ky... anyhow:
4dr JK 6spd, dual tops. (or possibly hard top and bikini top for winter)
Rear locker option - if i can find it
Drive the Jeep in stock config for a while, saving up for....
the dana 44 axle for front directly with locker, 4.10 gears, swap them for 4.88.
purchase 3" of lift (undecided likely BB/BL combo) (I like a low slung stance)
swap gears out in rear axle to 4.88, install front axle with same gear ratio. wire up front locker.
install 33-35" tires. (very undecided on size)
Later down the road swap out the t-case for a rock trac.
add the typical stuff like tire carrier bumper, cage, etc.
I guess my only concern is the rear locker if i cant find that option what else do i have as far as electric lockers go?
any other opinions?

 

Might suggest that you get a Rubicon, comes with the rocktrack 4.0:1 and dana 44 with 4:10 gears with lockers front and rear and will run well with 33" tires and might need to regear with 35's.

Just a girls thaughts

 

I guess i tend to agree with jkkat here, if you are going to replace the transfer case and axles anyhow... the rubi come with those.

to add the axles, it will run you about 3k total (Front $1480, & Rear $1350 +wiring harness and Dealer flash costs) for the D44's as an assembly with brakes and lockers installed. no idea on the t-case cost.

I would suggest configuring a Rubi the way you want it in the end, and configuring an X with the same options, and see what ends up cheaper for you.

I am one of the (un)lucky ones who has a D35 rearend, i will be swapping that out eventually, so that is going to cost me in the neighborhood of $1500 alone. ~ might be further ahead myself to scrap the build of this Sahara, and bite the bullet on a new Rubi. Either way, i need to run the math and see, which is what i am suggesting you do as well.

 

I started w/ rock rails. I chose Shrockworks because they attatched to the frame

Step 2 - Evap relocation

Step 3 - Oil pan skid, (grinded to make room for auto tranny drive shaft

Step 4 - JKS Sway disconnect or Currie system. I'm leaning toward Currie

I did not want the Rubi front D44. I want deeper gears anyway and I also want front lockout hubs. After market options, in this space, are too expensive. And, despite what some others may say, I know the front high pinion D30 to be a good and stout axle. Very much up to the task of handling up to 35 inch tires if some reasonalble caution is maintained.
As always, the u-joints will be the first to give out. This is how it's supposed to work, and save the rest of the axle parts from further damage. I have no issues with replacing u-joints on the trail. I've had to do it with front D44's on other Jeeps too.
When I change my front axle I will be looking for a doner that already has lockout's or one that is reasonalble, dollar wise, to convert. Right now, I am looking at 72-75 Bronco or Internationals as possible doners. An old Jeep J10 or J20 might do too.

 

Wow Happy,
I feel almost blessed.

 

well typically id get a rubi but the monthly payment is too much. overall id rather have a JK 4dr period rubi or not. whether i ever get to mod it or not. and seeing how rare they are around here at least i dont know its actually an option.
the only axle id half to swap would be the front. the rear is already a dana 44 is it not? i was comparing them at the dealer and appeared to be.
right now the X seems to be actually a cheaper build if done over time. i kinda like the idea of building it, my soon to be spouse wants to learn about this stuff and be VERY involved. so its kinda like our project. pretty nice to have found a Jeep chick
we'll see what happens but as far as this route goes the plan seems okay?

 

By the time you get to your mods, you may have the $$$ to do it even better. There are some stronger after market axles out there that can be built with Superiors and lockers, ARB's or OX's etc from the start. When you finally get to the transfer case, you might want to check out what Atlas has to offer instead of going OEM. You might also look into the X with the rear locker/ sway bar option as well.

 

this is my 2nd jeep build. i had a rubicon previously but sold it over a year ago when my daughter was born.
I believe the electric sway bar disco is automatically added when you do locking rear diff. i just called my dealer and was advised if they couldnt find one i could come there order it and 6-8 weeks it would be delivered. this likely will be my top option so i can get what i want exactly. the rear locker installed would save me alot of $ and make it that much more capable till i got the build going.
so once i have the vehicle its get the dana front axle with locker 1500$ or so install 4.88's then have the rear changed to 4.88 and install front axle.
i could do the lift/tires before or after, it wouldnt really matter since it isnt a DD.
overall i feel its a good plan, the t-case may never get swapped out. I dont need anything too hard core, at atlast would be awesome but probably overkill. it may never get swapped out, depends how the stock one does for me, likely it will be fine with 6 spd and 4.88's.
i could not install 4.88's in the rear and still run the 3.73 in the front could I? even if taking off the front driveshaft?
only other thing, would 5.13 be better if i plan to go 35's in the distant future? would 5.13 and 33's with 6 spd be too much? i dont need it to be terrible on gas but i dont think it will ever be great. i thought 4.88 would be best all around for my application.
i currently have a 94 ford explorer with 215,000 miles on it lol so you can see where im @ now. it gets 16-20 mpg and its NEVER over 60mph.

 

Depending on the rocks you're thinking of, keep an open mind on some armor underneath.

 

well of course, i did not list the entire build mostly just the drivetrain... i will add diff gaurds while after gears are installed for a start. im more worried about the other stuff since it takes much more preparation again, not a newb just shooting ideas out.
i also plan a cage etc. do 4.88 sound like a winner, i think if i knew i would run 35's all the time i would do them but i think 33's will do fine.