First Jeep purchase, need help
#11
JK Jedi
One last thing I might add........I'd angle to buy a jeep in stock form. If you want to lift it, at least you will know everything that was done to it in that regard. Part of the problem buying a jeep that is already lifted is trying to figure out what the heck someone has done to it....identifying parts/brands and such. You're stuck starting with what someone else deemed appropriate parts rather than what you might choose yourself.
#12
JK Jedi Master
Most people settled on it being a reaction of some kind with the anti-freeze.
#13
The Jeep Wrangler market doesn't work like ordinary car resale markets. There's just some kind of irrationality about them that drives prices weird. Anyway, take resharp's advice, buy one in stock trim. It'll be cheaper to buy and cheaper in the long run if you intend to modify it. And you'll have far greater peace of mind knowing only you are to blame for whatever bad consequences occur from the mods rather than blindly being mad at some previous owner
Last edited by mr72; 08-22-2017 at 02:05 PM.
#14
JK Super Freak
#16
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies! I'll be honest I think I'm more confused then before ha ha. Should I be worried about mileage? I've seen some in my price range but have 80-120k on the odometer.
Last edited by jscribn1; 08-23-2017 at 07:43 AM. Reason: Spelling
#17
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Not only that but invariably sellers think they should get more for their modified JK than an unmolested one is worth, and amazingly some folks are willing to pay it. So you get dodgy modification choices, sort of a mystery of intent and quality of work, plus you have to pay extra for the privilege.
The Jeep Wrangler market doesn't work like ordinary car resale markets. There's just some kind of irrationality about them that drives prices weird. Anyway, take resharp's advice, buy one in stock trim. It'll be cheaper to buy and cheaper in the long run if you intend to modify it. And you'll have far greater peace of mind knowing only you are to blame for whatever bad consequences occur from the mods rather than blindly being mad at some previous owner
The Jeep Wrangler market doesn't work like ordinary car resale markets. There's just some kind of irrationality about them that drives prices weird. Anyway, take resharp's advice, buy one in stock trim. It'll be cheaper to buy and cheaper in the long run if you intend to modify it. And you'll have far greater peace of mind knowing only you are to blame for whatever bad consequences occur from the mods rather than blindly being mad at some previous owner
Last edited by jscribn1; 08-23-2017 at 07:51 AM. Reason: Spelling
#18
What "upgrades" do you really require? Where are you driving this that you really need Rubicon features? IDK your budget but if you can get a new Sport in your price range, then do it. The Rubicon features are only really valuable in very specific conditions and may very well not be nearly worth the extra money. Manual sway bar disconnects are cheap and easy to install and BLD is a pretty solid substitute for lockers in 99% of off-road conditions you'll likely encounter.
"Upgrades" after purchase are way cheaper than trying to buy a new or used Jeep that already has such upgrades installed, provided you can do the labor yourself. Another benefit is you get to choose specifically which "upgrades" you need and only pay for those, rather than dropping $10K on a package from Jeep that may or may not include what you need, much less some previous owner's opinion of what was necessary.
Of course I am derisively putting "upgrades" in quotes because I really do believe most of the "upgrades" are 99% cosmetic or ego-boosters for most folks. If you are price conscious, you're way better off with a bone stock brand new JKU Sport than a 100K+ "upgraded" Rubicon. Spend $500 on a winch in case you run into that 1% time when you really need locking diff over BLD. <$1K for MT tires if you absolutely need them, although rolling them on the highway behind an RV will wear them pretty quickly, I'd pick some ATs instead.
I still say if you are really budget conscious and are willing to get a Jeep with some miles on it, an XJ is a far better choice for a capable off-road vehicle with 4 doors. I'd have talked myself into one if not for the fact that I drive with the top down/off most of the time.
#19
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
What "upgrades" do you really require? Where are you driving this that you really need Rubicon features? IDK your budget but if you can get a new Sport in your price range, then do it. The Rubicon features are only really valuable in very specific conditions and may very well not be nearly worth the extra money. Manual sway bar disconnects are cheap and easy to install and BLD is a pretty solid substitute for lockers in 99% of off-road conditions you'll likely encounter.
"Upgrades" after purchase are way cheaper than trying to buy a new or used Jeep that already has such upgrades installed, provided you can do the labor yourself. Another benefit is you get to choose specifically which "upgrades" you need and only pay for those, rather than dropping $10K on a package from Jeep that may or may not include what you need, much less some previous owner's opinion of what was necessary.
Of course I am derisively putting "upgrades" in quotes because I really do believe most of the "upgrades" are 99% cosmetic or ego-boosters for most folks. If you are price conscious, you're way better off with a bone stock brand new JKU Sport than a 100K+ "upgraded" Rubicon. Spend $500 on a winch in case you run into that 1% time when you really need locking diff over BLD. <$1K for MT tires if you absolutely need them, although rolling them on the highway behind an RV will wear them pretty quickly, I'd pick some ATs instead.
I still say if you are really budget conscious and are willing to get a Jeep with some miles on it, an XJ is a far better choice for a capable off-road vehicle with 4 doors. I'd have talked myself into one if not for the fact that I drive with the top down/off most of the time.
"Upgrades" after purchase are way cheaper than trying to buy a new or used Jeep that already has such upgrades installed, provided you can do the labor yourself. Another benefit is you get to choose specifically which "upgrades" you need and only pay for those, rather than dropping $10K on a package from Jeep that may or may not include what you need, much less some previous owner's opinion of what was necessary.
Of course I am derisively putting "upgrades" in quotes because I really do believe most of the "upgrades" are 99% cosmetic or ego-boosters for most folks. If you are price conscious, you're way better off with a bone stock brand new JKU Sport than a 100K+ "upgraded" Rubicon. Spend $500 on a winch in case you run into that 1% time when you really need locking diff over BLD. <$1K for MT tires if you absolutely need them, although rolling them on the highway behind an RV will wear them pretty quickly, I'd pick some ATs instead.
I still say if you are really budget conscious and are willing to get a Jeep with some miles on it, an XJ is a far better choice for a capable off-road vehicle with 4 doors. I'd have talked myself into one if not for the fact that I drive with the top down/off most of the time.
Must have: 2.5" lift to fit 35's. Gears to accompany the 35's.
cosmetic: bumpers, fenders.
I like the AEV 2.5" kit, I'm handy with a wrench and would feel comfortable lifting it myself. Not sure I can do gears though and I've heard they are expensive too.
What is BLD? I'm a big guy 6'5" and I've looked at the XJ's and they are just too small especially with 2 teenagers that will be sitting in the back there's just no room. So you think a new or newer Unlimited Sport, stock and lift myself is the way to go huh?
#20
Someone else here will be able to advise you on this. I have a 2.5" lift front, 1.5" rear, which I even kind of regret doing. But IMHO 35" tires are overkill and necessitate regearing, and are almost 100% cosmetic.
Brake-lock differential. It uses the ABS sensors and actuators to apply brake to a wheel that's spinning freely so torque is transferred to the other wheel on the axle. Has some (much?) of the benefit of locking diffs without the downsides and it's a standard feature on all JKs. Sure there are some (maybe rare) cases where BLD doesn't work as well as locking diffs.
To me, a newer vehicle with the better (more powerful, modern, efficient) engine and warranty is more valuable than the Rubicon features. If you are doing hardcore rock crawling nearly all the time, maybe the Rubicon features are worth it. Just be honest about how much or what type of off-roading you are going to be doing, decide accordingly, that's my advice.
What is BLD?
So you think a new or newer Unlimited Sport, stock and lift myself is the way to go huh?