I don't remember the original shape. Can someone help me figure out how badly this needs to be replaced? If I do replace it, I want a full replacement which I believe only synergy offers. Everyone else seems to bolt over stock. It's probably getting close to being time to look into the cross member and transfer case skid as well

Drop it, hammer it out, spray it with anti-rust paint, then bolt it back up. It isn't too bad. Mine has larger gouges and I hammer it out annually. I'll find a picture.

Same dent as you've got, one of the smaller ones in my book of attempts.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...2500530617.jpg

On the ground, note the leading edge...

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ket_63094_.jpg

Post repair

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ket_63096_.jpg

Looks like a good route, cheaper for sure! How bad is dropping the tank? Have you considered adding any reinforcement to the tank?

Dropping the tank is easy, 8 bolts I think. You should be on about empty so it's easier to move but even then- stick a jack under it and unbolt it then lower it just enough to get a ratchet strap in there. The actual tank stays in place so there aren't any wires or lines to disconnect. You may have to tug at the skid to get it away from the tank.

Reinforcement? Nope. I welded up the seams on the inside where the rust was forming and cut a drain hole where sand was building up.

Those rocks at RC seem to catch the skid each time I visit :doh:

So is synergy the only direct replacement? Likely will replace and don't want to keep this on there under a skid that covers it

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My stock tank skid is really beat up. Maybe I'll drop it and hammer it.

It's not too hard to remove you say?

It's not bad to drop. The first time will take some finesse but it's cake once you see where it all goes. I use a strap to hold the gas tank up and pried away the skid.

It's simple to remove. Just take your time with all the lines & connections.

I'll warn you though...my skid was so twisted & warped that when it was time to put it back in I thought it would never fit. Contemplated ordering a new skid but finally got the pig installed. If I need to drop the tank again, a new skid is being ordered.

isn't the factory skid thin? Why not get a beefier skid as long as we're taking the time to R&R?

You're not going to puncture the skid, it's not that thin. The r&r isn't bad enough to warrant the extra cost of an aftermarket skid that will experience the same downfalls.

Coincidence, I was just about to start a thread on this topic myself. I was worried about things not lining up when reinstalling it. Do you drill out the holes or beat to fit?

Mine went back together fine even after being twisted. I hammer it out, rust-proof, reinstall. The bolts are large enough to draw the skid into the right spot and there are....8 of them, I think.

so then my next question is: why bother to straighten it out at all? Which has been my theory for the last 122k miles actually. :blush:

OCD and rust prevention have been my reasons for pulling it. Hammering it straight is just a "while I've got it out" thing. I also elected to weld over the crap lap welds they've got on the inside of the skid. Not that it makes it any stronger, just OCD.

I pulled mine to install my long arms. Didn't bother trying to beat it straight as it's going to be abused again. If you don't need to pull it then let it be. It will work just fine.

http://youtu.be/ys80SCb6XmU I bought Rockhard. I bought all 4 pcs. A lot of good reviews. It does go over the stock skid but what is wrong with double skid protection. Since they all merry together it is a nice flat surface to skid over.

I don't like this option because my stock skid is pushed up into my tank. It needs to go

Double skid is double weight. The truth of the matter is that nobody has posted up and had a rock go through their stock skid. The same cannot be said for a stock oil pan but that's another thread.

Excellent point, and part of the reason i still have my stock skid. But I worry....and not just about how much smaller my tank is now after being squished the bent skid (he says, only half kidding)

My tank has an indent where the skid was pushed into it but the majority of your gas is back towards the rear anyways. That front piece doesn't have much going on and there certainly isn't any real "capacity" up there.

This^^

There's also a fuel pump in there but I know the bending typically occurs in the front. I could certainly pull the skid and pound it back into shape but when I pull it I'm going with an actual replacement from Clayton or synergy. I would have considered one of the others if I was proactive and didn't already have a trashed factory skid.

Just found this interesting video and tidbit of info. According to Rock Hard, they claim you should not remove the factory skid but rather leave it in place and put their skid on top of it because the OEM skid is technically part of the tank hanger and they feel this could open you up to liability in an accident.
https://youtu.be/ys80SCb6XmU?t=17m45s