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I need a decent grease gun

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Old 09-01-2018, 03:33 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by tjkamp
Sometimes I feel like it helps if I cuss at it, a lot! Sometimes it doesn't seem to have any effect. Lol!

Tube before last something failed and it leaked past the plunger inside the gun, and nothing would come out, when I pulled the handle back thinking I had run out of grease, it was stuck and I had to pull as hard as I could. When I did, the entire tube's worth shot through the slot nest to the handle all over me and the garage and everything else.

Lots of cussing that day.
You just described my last 2 times loading a grease cartridge into my gun to the T.....cussing and all.

Last edited by Rednroll; 09-01-2018 at 05:00 AM.
Old 09-01-2018, 04:35 AM
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Ok, The guy that wrote these reviews obviously knows a ton more about grease guns and what makes one better than the other than myself.
https://toolsinsider.org/best-grease-gun-reviews/

Therefore, based off of his reviews I got my choices narrowed down to 2 guns.
Lumax LX-1152 Black Heavy Duty Deluxe Pistol Grease Gun with 18" Flex Hose
https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1152-Deluxe-Pistol-Grease/dp/B000MD4YKM?tag=toolsinside02-20&th=1
Alex Rednroll had accidental occurrences when grease flowed out of his GG and he had to clean more than his garage floors. Lumax LX-1152 Pistol Grease Gun fixed the problem for him with the follower road lock. Now, when he’s done with greasing, he simply locks the tool and not a single drop of grease flows out.
and/or

Drake Off Road Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with Whip Hose and Rigid Pipe
https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-1134-Pistol-Grease/dp/B0002NYDZ8?tag=toolsinside02-20
The Lincoln has great reviews, the Lumax seems a little more idiot proof in loading the cartridge. I'm leaning towards purchasing both to be able to find out for myself which one will give me the least amount of grief. I typically either use red grease, or marine grease so I'll load each one with the 2 types I typically use and go from there.

The Amazon reviews for the Lumix seem to show the biggest gripe with this gun is that it locks onto the zerks and won't let go. I'm thinking of getting one of those lockNLube replacement coupler ends because the opposite side of that problem is that it doesn't stay on the zerk which is the problem I have now. It seems those fancy ends fix both of those problems. Although $30 just for a replacement end does seem a little steep, when compared to the price of the guns.
https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU/ref=pd_sbs_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00H7LPKKU&pd_rd_r=59a110ca-addf-11e8-ab28-01ad97aa66bb&pd_rd_w=Yf01X&pd_rd_wg=it4Ir&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=B2T86PYEYKFC7JHWK7G2&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=B2T86PYEYKFC7JHWK7G2
Lincoln review comments that interested me:
Originally Posted by Amazon Review
Prime? Fastest prime I've had on a gun to date. Insert new tube of RL CV2, screw the tube on, release the plunger, crack the bleeder a couple turns until you stop hearing the crackling of air coming out with the grease, close and bingo.
Oh my.....this has me concerned, since it sounds like the current hokey pokey dance I try to do now and can't figure it out.
Why does my 1134 quit pumping grease after a grease cartridge replacement?

Answers:
It get air in the gun when you change the cartridge just like every other grease gun made. I have owned at least eight or more I have four at the present and they all have to be primed when you replace the grease cartridge. You just pull the handle at the end and turn it till it locks and push on the handle while pumping the gun and it will prime. After it primes then it will pump grease till you have to change the cartridge again but it does not always have to be primed sometimes you get lucky and it primes on its own. This is by far the best grease gun I have owned it has great pressure and is easier to pump than my old pistol grip which broke after about forty years and it is much much better that the Chinese one I bought from Wal-Mart for twenty dollars just before I bought this one. see less
By Tuffy46 on August 30, 2013

Because it gets an air pocket inside the pump and air does not pump well by hand. These were supposed to not do that so much but I found the opposite to be true. I just change the tube when its almost out, that way there usually is no trouble with air in them. Also after you get a couple turns in with the new tube, release the T handles so it can push some air out while screwing the two pieces together, that helps a lot sometimes too see less
By Dan… on September 1, 2013

Check the plunger to see if it is on correct. I went crazy trying to figure out why mine was only working half the time after a cartridge change. I finally noticed that the plunger did not look even so i used a screwdriver to move it back into position. This only worked temporarily before it would get out of position … see more
By ThePhenom on January 15, 2014

The air at the top of the new cartridge needs to be bled off. I just left my grease gun in a hot place (July sunshine) for a few minutes with the pump end up and loosened about 1 turn.
By Chemist on August 29, 2013

Last edited by Rednroll; 09-01-2018 at 05:35 AM.
Old 09-01-2018, 05:13 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Seizer
I like this idea Chris, thanks! I think I'll be making one this weekend.....of, um 3 Seems like I'll put a cap at the bottom to catching any oil that leaks out from the bottom of the gun. Will try backing the plunger off, but part of me thinks it's mainly the Texas heat separating things a bit.
Old 09-02-2018, 06:27 PM
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After EXTENSIVE reseach , I think I've decided what I'm going to go with after educating myself on grease gun features. I'm going to go with a combination of the Lumax LX-1123 grease gun and get a LockNLube Grease coupler end. The LockNLube coupler costs more than the actual grease gun but after shopping around for a good knock off of the LockNLube there seems to be no reliable alternative substitutes, so I'm not even going to risk it to save $15.

This video was useful in describing the differences between the Lincoln and the Lumax guns.

Here are the things that I was able to determine would get me closest to that evasive holy grail in manual operated grease guns.
1. Plunger with Locking Tab: With a bottom locking tab, the plunger can be partially pulled back and locked to relieve pressure for when not in use. (Helps eliminate the leaking due to hot weather). The Lincoln guns do not have this feature. The ironic thing is that my current grease gun has this feature but I never used it for this purpose. I thought it was just meant to hold back the plunger when loading a new grease cartridge.
2. Air Bleeder Valve: Not having this on my current grease gun may be the reason I have been struggling so much to get the grease gun primed when loading a new cartridge. This allows you to easily release air pressure out of the loaded gun without having to pull any additional tools out (allen wrench). The Lincoln's don't have this, however I did find where you can purchase separate air bleeder valves and replace the screw type releases but who knows how well a separate valve purchase will work with the gun even though the threads are supposed to be pretty standard. The Lumax LX-1123 (lever model) and LX-1152 (Pistol grip model) grease guns both include air bleeder valves. This Lumax video shows how to properly load the gun and use the valve.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/D1eSUdR2AlS.mp4
3. Lever vs. Pistol grip guns (I prefer Lever): My current grease gun is a pistol grip gun, my previous gun was a lever action. I prefer the lever types but both had drawbacks. The benefit to the lever type is that it is much easier to apply more grease pressure force where they typically have a higher PSI rating compared to an equivalent Pistol grip type. LX-1123 (lever model)= 10,000 PSI, LX-1152=7000 PSI. The drawback to the lever type is that it typically takes 2 hands to pump them, while in typical grease gun fashion the hose attachment to the zerk keeps coming off and forcing you to hold the the nozzle onto the zerk with one hand while pumping the gun with your other. The Pistol grip helps solve that problem, but it can also be challenging to squeeze the pistol grip with one hand depending on the thickness of the grease you're using since the pistol grip lacks leverage when compared to the lever type. You end up having to pump the pistol grip type many more times to grease your joints where you can grease them with a single pump of the lever type. Good ole Pascals law coming into the equation here in the Pistol vs Lever type. Solving this problem of the grease coupler popping off the zerk seems to be where the LockNLube locking coupler solves that problem. As well the LockNLube eliminates the problem associated with the Lumax guns of the included coupler locking onto zerks and not letting go.

Watch the beginning of this video. I know I laughed because I experienced these things so many times.

4. Rigid Extension vs Flexible Hose (Prefer Flexible Hose): A large majority of the lever action grease guns I looked at seemed to have the rigid extension zerk coupler connection, where I think the flexible hose is the obvious choice for our JKs for the hard to reach items. The Lumax was one of the few that had a lever action with a flexible hose included, where I could purchase a separate flexible hose for some of the other options which came with the rigid extension, but finding a quality gun at the same time seemed to be more of a hit and miss challenge, where the Lumax guns seem to have pretty good reviews.

So here's what I've decided to roll with. If this setup works well I may get another to keep each loaded with the 2 types of grease I typically use. Not buying a 2nd combo until I find out how much cussing this setup invokes.
Lumax LX-1123 Lever action Heavy Duty Grease Gun with 18in flex coupler
https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1123-Deluxe-Grease-Coupler/dp/B0059HIZGU/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
LockNLube Grease Coupler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU/ref=cm_wl_huc_continue

Last edited by Rednroll; 09-03-2018 at 04:19 AM.
Old 09-03-2018, 07:55 AM
  #15  
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Thanks for the update. I have the Lincoln 1133 in that first video. It's been a decent gun but with all the typical issues that have been discussed. The gun bought in Moab was just whatever O'Reilly had in stock, but it does have the lock lever for the plunger. Definitely going to try backing those plungers off and see if any better. I built a little contraption out of PVC like Seizer showed, and really like that storage idea. This whole time, I thought storing my gun upside down to avoid oil leaking didn't help at all....LOL, when I got it out to test in my new storage, I was greeted with about 2 tablespoons of oil draining from the bottom...ugh. . I think that LockNLube looks like a good idea in general, but at the price. Will be curious to see an update as to how you like that. Now that I have 2 full size guns, think I'll leave one with regular fitting (or possibly upgraded lockNlube), and leave the other with needle zerk. I would only highlight that the lockNlube won't help much with flat zerks like you're going to find on aftermarket DS CV joints, and a few other places (my DT lower BJs), but it looks nice for regular zerks that have plenty of clearance to access. That leaves mini grease gun for RK's special unicorn tears grease for the one RK joint I have on the jeep

In regards to bleeder valves.....never had luck with the bleeder on the 1133. Always seemed easier to just not tighten the top all the way until the air was purged, then tighten it up. Not sure if spring loaded bleeder valve like on the other gun will be much better or not.
Old 09-03-2018, 01:20 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Thanks for the update. I have the Lincoln 1133 in that first video. It's been a decent gun but with all the typical issues that have been discussed. The gun bought in Moab was just whatever O'Reilly had in stock, but it does have the lock lever for the plunger. Definitely going to try backing those plungers off and see if any better. I built a little contraption out of PVC like Seizer showed, and really like that storage idea. This whole time, I thought storing my gun upside down to avoid oil leaking didn't help at all....LOL, when I got it out to test in my new storage, I was greeted with about 2 tablespoons of oil draining from the bottom...ugh. . I think that LockNLube looks like a good idea in general, but at the price. Will be curious to see an update as to how you like that. Now that I have 2 full size guns, think I'll leave one with regular fitting (or possibly upgraded lockNlube), and leave the other with needle zerk. I would only highlight that the lockNlube won't help much with flat zerks like you're going to find on aftermarket DS CV joints, and a few other places (my DT lower BJs), but it looks nice for regular zerks that have plenty of clearance to access. That leaves mini grease gun for RK's special unicorn tears grease for the one RK joint I have on the jeep

In regards to bleeder valves.....never had luck with the bleeder on the 1133. Always seemed easier to just not tighten the top all the way until the air was purged, then tighten it up. Not sure if spring loaded bleeder valve like on the other gun will be much better or not.
The added size of the LockNLube coupler seems to be the drawback of being able to get it into tighter areas as you mentioned. I'll share my experience once I've had a chance to use it on my JK. Here are the items I'll likely be using it on.
- Lower front control arms
- TF ball joints
- RoughStuff tie-rod
- Synergy drag link

I'm likely going to get a 2nd grease gun, which one and whether or not to get another LockNLube coupler for it will highly depend on my experience with this current Lumax setup. This Lincoln is next on my list if the Lumax lets me down but I will also go with the Lincoln Pistol grip version if the LockNLube doesn't work out as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-1147-Grease-Gun-Hose/dp/B0002NYDZS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1536009391&sr=8-8&keywords=Lincoln+grease+gun
I just watched another video on properly loading and priming a grease gun. The air valve often clogging was mentioned in that video where the recommendation was made to loosen the top instead as you suggested. I never thought of that prior, where my attention was more focused on not having to use a tool to unscrew a top valve screw. I wish I had thought of that before, although looking back, the last time I tried to unscrewed the top, I turned too far and grease came pouring out and wasted over half the cartridge and therefore I incorrectly assumed I had to use the top valve screw to let air out. It's funny how that works out, you can't get any grease to come out while pumping the gun, but loosen the top too far and the stuff comes gushing out.

Last edited by Rednroll; 09-03-2018 at 01:35 PM.
Old 09-03-2018, 01:54 PM
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I use the lock and lube fitting and love it.
The easiest way to prime a grease gun is to not screw the top on tight. Change your cartridge and when you go to put the top back on turn it until it's snug then back it off some (about a turn or so). You would think that grease would spew out but it doesn't. Pump it about 4-8 times and it will pump up and out of the hose. Now tighten the top. I have been doing this for years and it works every time. The other trick that I knew of was to take the hose off and pump it without the hose first. Once it's pumped up put the hose back on. Both of these methods work every time for me but obviously the first one is easier as you don't have to remove the hose. Good luck!
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Old 09-15-2018, 01:22 PM
  #18  
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I tried out my grease gun setup today. It's the Lumax LX-1123 with the LockNLube coupler on it. LockNLube coupler fit fine on the Lumax gun. I decided to put plumbers tape on all the thread fittings of the entire grease gun.

The Lumax grease gun seems good. I was able to load a new cartridge in it and had no problem priming it and getting grease to pump out. I do like the convenience of the top air valve where it seemed to work good, so far.

I greased these items
- RC X-Flex Lower control arm joints
- Synergy drag link (both ends)
- Ruffstuff tie-rod (both ends)
- TF HD ball joints

I was able to put the LockNlube coupler onto all those zerks with no problem. I have to say, I really like the LockNLube coupler. You do need to make sure you have a straight shot at the zerk when locking it onto the zerk. However, once locked on, it works great. Once I had it locked on the zerk, I just set the gun on the ground and pumped it with one hand, where the grease went into the zerk and to the joint. Definitely not spitting out from around the zerk or any of the grease gun fittings like I'm used to.

I picked up one of these Grease guns from Harbor Freight for $10, it seems to have all the same features as the Lumax. I'm definitely going to purchase another LockNLube coupler to put on that as well. Hopefully both guns will work out well, but I'll see which (Lumax or HF Pittsburgh) grease gun frustrates me 1st and then possibly double up on whichever one that doesn't or get a Lincoln if they both end up being junk over time.


The LockNLube is about double the length (3in vs 1.5in) of the coupler that came on the Lumax gun. It also comes with replacement part seals and chuck fittings.


So far, so good.......It all works like it's supposed to.


P.S. I really dislike those darn Synergy slinky springs and grease boots. Putting those back in place on both ends of my drag link was the most difficult and time consuming part of the job. I'll never buy another synergy product. If they can't design a simple grease boot in this day and age, I have my doubts about the rest of their designs. Yes, I know synergy now makes replacement grease boots. Maybe when they bring over a set and install them for me so I don't have to, then I'll start to look at their products again.

Last edited by Rednroll; 09-15-2018 at 03:14 PM.
Old 09-17-2018, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rednroll
P.S. I really dislike those darn Synergy slinky springs and grease boots. Putting those back in place on both ends of my drag link was the most difficult and time consuming part of the job. I'll never buy another synergy product. If they can't design a simple grease boot in this day and age, I have my doubts about the rest of their designs. Yes, I know synergy now makes replacement grease boots. Maybe when they bring over a set and install them for me so I don't have to, then I'll start to look at their products again.
The last remaining Synergy item on my jeep is their TR.....and wish I could have a do-over on that from years ago. Anyhow, I did replace the ends, and the new ends came with wire clip type retainer vs. the slinky springs. The one thing I'd say, in their defense, is the boot is not intended to be a grease reservoir. Almost everyone, including myself, is guilty of overfilling those, and then the excess grease ends up bulging the boot and the spring fails to keep in in place. That's my experience at least. I really need to buy the Lock N Lube. I've just set on having 2 grease guns now.....so one has a needle fitting, and the other a traditional fitting.
Old 09-18-2018, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
I lock the rod back just enough to take the load off the piston. The grease will not be under pressure. It helps a lot, but there is probably no way to prevent all oil leakage when stored for long periods.

I store mine on the lip of the garage trash can. As you can tell by the number of grease guns I own, I have also been frustrated in getting grease into the 23 fittings on my Jeep. I come out a sloppy mess after that battle. I don't blame the guns; it's the lousy, loose tolerance Zerk fittings most products have. I greased my (then) brand new 1973 Plymouth Duster with a cheap auto parts store grease gun and never had problems. The fittings were tight; grease never leaked out.
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