JK Squeaking and grind from front driver side
12-22-2018, 01:38 PM
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JK Squeaking and grind from front driver side
Hey guys first time posting! So I just traded my old JK and got a 2011 JKU. Has a BDS 6” lift and 37” toyos. On the drive home, I noticed that there was a nasty squeaking noise coming from the front driver side. At first I thought it could be the shock so I talked to the guys at the dealership, and the guy literally said “It’s got a lift and bigger tires. It’s gonna drive different.” Wouldn’t even look at the car. Pestered him for a few more days and he agreed to take a peak. The next day, he said he couldn’t find anything and that he couldn’t even hear a squeak.
Now, there’s a grinding going with it. It’s driving me absolutely crazy!! Especially since the jackass isn’t willing to help. I took some videos before the grinding started. Couldn’t get one that accurately portrayed the grinding because of road noise and what not. I linked the video that I recorded below..
That said, what do you guys think is going on here? Any help is appreciated.
heres a link to the vid:
Now, there’s a grinding going with it. It’s driving me absolutely crazy!! Especially since the jackass isn’t willing to help. I took some videos before the grinding started. Couldn’t get one that accurately portrayed the grinding because of road noise and what not. I linked the video that I recorded below..
That said, what do you guys think is going on here? Any help is appreciated.
heres a link to the vid:
Last edited by Matt Galbraith; 12-23-2018 at 04:26 AM. Reason: Videos didn’t upload
12-23-2018, 08:48 AM
#4
JK Jedi Master
Pull the front driveshaft and take it for a drive. See if that doesn't stop the noise. FYI, if you still have the OEM front DS, then it's probably toast anyway with that much lift. And if you don't, then you may need to lube that front DS (not all can be lubed). If you're not too late--if it needs lube, it may be damaged and need repair. When mine started making that same noise (Tom Woods DS) after driving through deep flooding during a road trip, I had to return it to the factory for repair. Not even the local driveline specialty shop had the proprietary tools to repair it. Bear in mind that some DSs (like Tom Woods) require removal of the DS so you can get at a hidden grease fitting on the CV ball.
An unrelated suggestion that you can thank me for later: Reevaluate whether you want to keep that six inches of lift. If you decide you've just got to have that much lift, then do some studying up about what mods you need beyond the lift itself to have a safe vehicle to drive and to prevent further high failure rate of components--replace diff covers, driveshafts, trackbars and control arms, modify steering geometry, cut off and reweld the spring perches, etc. Then check and see if your new Jeep has those mods.
An unrelated suggestion that you can thank me for later: Reevaluate whether you want to keep that six inches of lift. If you decide you've just got to have that much lift, then do some studying up about what mods you need beyond the lift itself to have a safe vehicle to drive and to prevent further high failure rate of components--replace diff covers, driveshafts, trackbars and control arms, modify steering geometry, cut off and reweld the spring perches, etc. Then check and see if your new Jeep has those mods.
Last edited by Mark Doiron; 12-23-2018 at 08:55 AM.
12-23-2018, 09:54 AM
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An unrelated suggestion that you can thank me for later: Reevaluate whether you want to keep that six inches of lift. If you decide you've just got to have that much lift, then do some studying up about what mods you need beyond the lift itself to have a safe vehicle to drive and to prevent further high failure rate of components--replace diff covers, driveshafts, trackbars and control arms, modify steering geometry, cut off and reweld the spring perches, etc. Then check and see if your new Jeep has those mods.
As sunnysideup said, I’m actually starting to think it may be the u-joint. Been doing a little more research on that and other people with bad joints seem to have a near identical squeak. Just not sure now if the grinding I’m hearing is also a normal symptom of this. I was able to grab a vid of it last night but the grinding is very faint in it.
12-23-2018, 11:15 AM
#6
JK Jedi
If that sound isn't the CV centering joint on an aftermarket DC driveshaft, I'll be a monkey's uncle. 
If it's that dry, it's damaged, trust me.
You need to drop the front DS. You'll be able to easily tell if the centering joint is nearly seized up, or it it's a u-joint, but I am familiar with that sound.
If it's that dry, it's damaged, trust me.You need to drop the front DS. You'll be able to easily tell if the centering joint is nearly seized up, or it it's a u-joint, but I am familiar with that sound.
Last edited by resharp001; 12-23-2018 at 11:17 AM.
12-23-2018, 11:50 AM
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If that sound isn't the CV centering joint on an aftermarket DC driveshaft, I'll be a monkey's uncle. If it's that dry, it's damaged, trust me.
You need to drop the front DS. You'll be able to easily tell if the centering joint is nearly seized up, or it it's a u-joint, but I am familiar with that sound.
If it's that dry, it's damaged, trust me.You need to drop the front DS. You'll be able to easily tell if the centering joint is nearly seized up, or it it's a u-joint, but I am familiar with that sound.
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12-23-2018, 12:14 PM
#8
JK Jedi
If you want some honest truth, dealerships (used or new) aren't worth shit. If it's the CV joint, it's a $55-$60 part, you can loan a BJ press from an auto store and replace it yourself easily (same thing BTW if it's a u-joint cept cheaper.....but I'm pretty certain it's the centering joint). You might learn a bit in the process as well if you've never replace a u-joint, and that knowledge will be valuable moving forward. Is it right that you should have to fix it? NO, but it is what it is. It's a good $60 lesson. These are the issues you'll encounter when buying a lifted jeep, and why it's always better to buy something unmolested IMO. It's ok though, it's a simple fix and not the end of the world.
12-23-2018, 12:36 PM
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If you want some honest truth, dealerships (used or new) aren't worth shit. If it's the CV joint, it's a $55-$60 part, you can loan a BJ press from an auto store and replace it yourself easily (same thing BTW if it's a u-joint cept cheaper.....but I'm pretty certain it's the centering joint). You might learn a bit in the process as well if you've never replace a u-joint, and that knowledge will be valuable moving forward. Is it right that you should have to fix it? NO, but it is what it is. It's a good $60 lesson. These are the issues you'll encounter when buying a lifted jeep, and why it's always better to buy something unmolested IMO. It's ok though, it's a simple fix and not the end of the world.
But I’m definitely gonna be at least checking it out to see if I can find the problem before I let any of the guys at the dealer touch my Jeep.
12-23-2018, 01:18 PM
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As was mentioned above, pulling the front shaft and going for a drive should very quickly prove or eliminate it as the culprit. (though not very desirable if it's snowy and slick). And also verify whether it is stock or aftermarket for us, should be able to snap a few pics without crawling under.
I understand the time limitations you're facing, but if it is a bad joint, you probably don't want to keep driving on it until it seizes...
Teraflex has some humorous tech videos. Here is one talking about stock vs aftermarket, and how to grease the aftermarket joints. Good info in case that is the problem.
I understand the time limitations you're facing, but if it is a bad joint, you probably don't want to keep driving on it until it seizes...
Teraflex has some humorous tech videos. Here is one talking about stock vs aftermarket, and how to grease the aftermarket joints. Good info in case that is the problem.
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-23-2018 at 01:21 PM.