mattress67

Well, I kind of like to look at things before starting, you know, the old Chilton's manuals. But I get it, I'll start taking things apart, and if I get in a jamb, I'll be back here.

mattress67

Okay, here we go...

The track bar is severely bent (the bar that bends around differential).
The sway bar is slightly bent on the left side.
The left lower control arm is either bent, or the whole axle is shifted to the right.
When put into gear, the right wheel moves smoothly. The left wheel wobbles severely, and then the caliper seizes the rotor and movement stops.
The axle housing appears to be straight.
The frame appears to be straight.

Not sure how to proceed. I am guessing that I will remove the caliper, axle shaft, and replace? But I am worried about those other bent components. Even if replaced, it still seems to me that the axle will be shifted to the right.

As I post the pictures I'm realizing that having the jeep on jacks under the axle doesn't allow me to analyze the condition of the axle very well since it's ridged. Anyhow, I'll post and then go from there.


Bar seems pretty bent



Things look shifted





Thoughts, suggestions, etc.?

TheDirtman

Likely just a bent shaft flange, you might find take off shafts on craiglsist for cheap. Upgrade the track bar and replace any bent brackets. Lots cheaper then new axle.

resharp001

So the driver’s side axle shaft is toast. Flange sounds jacked up, therefore brake rotor is off. The axle is indeed shifted (due to the TB). Besides the picture with the arrow, you can see the upper control arm bound up a bit in the bracket.

I would start by removing the rear TB which is obviously damaged. That is what is currently holding the axle in position. Once that is removed, you should be able to shift the tub back over the axle correctly. Likely there’s enough play in those control arm joints that the arms themselves didn’t bend. Just inspect to verify.

I’d pull that axle shaft out and inspect the e-brake assembly and tabs the axle shaft attaches to on the axle are fine. Remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper and rotor, and remove the 4 bolts holding the axle shaft in from behind the e-brake. I believe you have to at the very least remove the 8mm nut holding the speed sensor in, then the axle shaft should pull on out. If it’s stubborn, you may need a slide hammer or just put the brake rotor on backwards loosely and give it a good couple yanks (slide-hammer effect).

I think that rear axle isn’t damaged, and the biggest thing would just be that quarter panel. I think that I have a factory rear TB in my garage. Happy to donate it if want to pay the shipping from DFW to AZ. I can confirm tonight. Probably ~$20 shipping, or upgrade the bar for <$200 like Dirtman said above, beating me to the punch.

mattress67

Excellent! Wow, and thanks for the offer. Lemme think about that - I hate for you to go through the trouble in packing, and dropping off at UPS/etc. However, a few questions...

Yah, no problem using the brake rotor to remove shaft, it's toast too. As far as shaft replacements - is it okay to just replace one, or is it something you do in pairs? Also, should I consider a replacement axle with bearings already pressed on?

Assuming all that goes well, you both are saying that the new track bar will take care of the current alignment?

Thanks again!

resharp001

highly likely new TB fixes the centering and there are no further issues with the control arms or brackets. Those brackets are pretty flimsy. On the off chance they are a little bend and can't be bent right back, can easily weld on (or have someone weld on) some new ones like Dirtman suggested.

You'd likely have to buy set of both shafts (left & right) buying used. If it were my jeep, I'd feel fine popping just the one used one in. If buying new, you can buy some brands individually, but I'd get a set with bearings and seals on so they were plug and play, and just replace both (just my preference).

Assuming I do indeed have it, and you want it, the TB is literally nbd. It was just given to me along the way with some other stuff, and has been hanging in my garage (practically brand new take-off). Would probably just need to cut up some boxes to make something that would work. We all need a some good karma now and then

mattress67

All that sounds good. Let me know about the TB - again, my JK is 2011 Sport Unlimited. If you got it, PM me, and we'll go from there.

I'll try to continue follow ups, but since this we have a back up car, I'm not in too much of a rush.

Thanks all!

mattress67

Actually, two more questions before I get started. Opinions on adjustable rear track bars, seems like it could come in handy in the future. Also, and here's a dumb one - can I change the track bar with the jeep jacks on the axle? I shifted them to the frame, but I get better height if jacked up on the axles.

resharp001

If you ever do a lift, having adjustable would be nice. Most lifts will use a raised rear TB bracket on the axle so you can retain the factory bar, but sometimes it's still nice to have adjustable to get the axle dead center where you want it. If you're going to stay factory height, there's not a lot of upside to having adjustable, but also no real problem with one either.

Yes, you can remove the TB with the axle on jack stands (would act the same as if the axle was sitting on tires still). Once removed, you can easily push the tub to shift it from side to side.

TheDirtman

a ratching strap also helps in getting the track bar lined up in the mounts.