Rear tire carrier
#1
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: San Angleo, texas
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Rear tire carrier
So I am trying to figure out the weight limit of a stock rear tire carrier. I am about to purchase new wheels and tires and was trying to figure out if I could momentarily hold off on purchasing an over-sized tire carrier. I'll be running 34s
#2
Super Moderator
50lbs according to the early literature. Your profile is incomplete so it's tough to tell if you have the newer revision of the gate that is rated for more weight.
You can put it off but it isn't recommended. You'll find plenty of threads where people are doing it and "it's just fine" but the damage is happening right under their nose. Do it right, it is your vehicle.
You can put it off but it isn't recommended. You'll find plenty of threads where people are doing it and "it's just fine" but the damage is happening right under their nose. Do it right, it is your vehicle.
#3
#4
JK Jedi
I would just delete the rear tire and carrier, take the money that you would spend on a spare you will likely never use and install an on board air compressor and a good plug kit. Better visibility out the back and saves some weight. OBA is nice to have so you can air back up on the trails.
#5
JK Jedi
I wouldn't trust that factory carrier for anything other than the factory spare myself. I agree with Dirtman about scrapping the spare all together and going with a clean look. It will save money AND eliminate weight. You'll probably never need it and it saves you from having to do 5-tire rotations. Money saved on a 5th wheel and tire combo pretty much covers onboard air as he suggests.
#6
If i remember right, the factory Rubicon wheel and tire weighed a little over 55 lbs. I think it was 35 for the tire and 20 for the wheel. Regardless, a 34" tire would put you over the margin of safety for the carrier and gradually pull the tailgate out of alignment.
This also assumes the center of mass remains in the same place across the width of the tire. If the CoM moves out an inch you can do some engineering math to determine the extra force it applies to the tailgate because it's now farther away.
Long story short, I wouldn't risk is unless you are really looking forward to replacing that tailgate in a few years.
This also assumes the center of mass remains in the same place across the width of the tire. If the CoM moves out an inch you can do some engineering math to determine the extra force it applies to the tailgate because it's now farther away.
Long story short, I wouldn't risk is unless you are really looking forward to replacing that tailgate in a few years.
#7
JK Freak
Resharp and Dirtman nailed it: scrap the spare from the tailgate idea...
I ran a 35" MTR on my stock carrier for a year before I shelled out the money for the Genright...and guess what? Even my "heavier duty" 2015 tailgate is slightly warped. Good thing I took the weight off of it when I did. You can only tell when really paying attention...but imagine if that spare fell off when I was cruising down the highway? Could kill someone.
In hindsight I should've saved the $1k from the Genright. I've never needed the spare...and actually backed into a tree and crushed my corner in during my last wheeling trip. Probably wouldn't have let the tree sneak up on me if I could see behind me...
I ran a 35" MTR on my stock carrier for a year before I shelled out the money for the Genright...and guess what? Even my "heavier duty" 2015 tailgate is slightly warped. Good thing I took the weight off of it when I did. You can only tell when really paying attention...but imagine if that spare fell off when I was cruising down the highway? Could kill someone.
In hindsight I should've saved the $1k from the Genright. I've never needed the spare...and actually backed into a tree and crushed my corner in during my last wheeling trip. Probably wouldn't have let the tree sneak up on me if I could see behind me...
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#8
JK Jedi Master
I'm not a big fan of going without a spare, but I suppose it depends on what the Jeep is used for. Big Bend Ranch State Park is well-known for tearing up tires, and they recommend (somewhat tongue-in-cheek, but somewhat seriously) carrying two. I've been on other trips where I've seen multiple tire failures (above the Arctic Circle). At the very least I'd say if one goes without a spare, carry better than one of those cheap tire repair kits. This one provides extra repair options, but you'll also need some tire irons to use them. It isn't cheap, but that reflects on both the contents and the quality of the parts and tools ...
https://www.extremeoutback.com/produ...3+001-009.html
8:29 if not forwarded automatically.
https://youtu.be/V1h3vbMyXmM?list=PLNmyT4ZqfdQmBSNAXSfR8OG9jIeB94XTz&t=509
https://www.extremeoutback.com/produ...3+001-009.html
8:29 if not forwarded automatically.
https://youtu.be/V1h3vbMyXmM?list=PLNmyT4ZqfdQmBSNAXSfR8OG9jIeB94XTz&t=509
#9
JK Jedi
Your correct, the trail should dictate. The op is new to jeeps and will be pounding the pavement 99% of the time and a 34" tire will easily fit in the cargo area if he is going to hit some gnarly trails.
#10
I agree with both....remove the tire for everyday driving so it's not hanging and vibrating on the tailgate everyday but when you hit the trail put it back on. Sidewall tears can't be fixed by a plug kit(technically...lol) better to be safe than sorry out on the trail in the middle of nowhere.
Doing it that way may prolong your need to get a carrier.
Doing it that way may prolong your need to get a carrier.