Mark Doiron

How much experience on the same roads did you get driving your Jeep? It will run rougher than "high performance, lowered cars", letting you know that whoever paved your highway may not have used a micrometer to level the surface. IOW: Are you certain things got worse after the lift, or are you just comparing to cars that handle typical highways much better than a Jeep suspension?

This is not good if you plan to drive your Jeep off road. They loosen easily. There are better answers--I happen to prefer adjustable control arms. Front lower and rear uppers would have done the job. More expensive, but gets the job done right. With 3.5" of lift, they should have also cut off your rear axle spring perches and repositioned them to avoid bowing the rear springs into contacting the track bar. Did they do that?

TheDirtman

Bigger tires typically will give you a better ride due to the taller sidewall absorbing bumps and the wider track giving you mare stability side to side. Lifts do not typically improve ride and at the height you are talking about with the way they do things I can guarantee that it will make your ride worse.

Tires are going to be your issue and don't expect a cheap mud terrain to ride nice or quiet or balance well.

Sorry you did not do research before throwing junk on your jeep but it happens all the time with newbs that think "I have a jeep, it needs a 4" lift".

Joisey

I would get rid of the cam bolts, get the AEV control arm brackets. They are around $100. I would also look into the synergy or Rock Crawler high steer kit. This will work wonders in your steering Dept. As for your shocks, Bilstein or OME is really the only way to go unless you are getting res shocks. Just remeber obsess with reseach and lift once, or like me you will get 3 diffrent lifts before you are happy.

Tripletsi

^ Completely agree, I've seen two ProComp tires blow out in one day. Cam bolts are a good sign of a lower cost "budget" type of lift too.

JK717

Yes, I had experience with driving the Jeep before the lift and tires. Same roads and noticed a difference right away. Figured it'd be rougher BUT just wanted to make sure its not because of a problem instead of just being the norm. One side was at 39psi and the other at 37psi. Lowered both to 35psi and it "seemed" a little better but still there. Going to go with the 28-30psi as recommended in an earlier post (thanks for that by the way), and see if that clears up the rest?

Not sure if they cut the spring perches but there is a bracket that came with the kit for the track bar for repositioning. Seems like the Rubicon Express kit is pretty complete?

JK717

Ouch……play nice with the newbs, we have feelings too! I did do my research by the way BUT like everything out there, everyone says that theirs is the best and I can chase my tail for weeks deciding. Everyone seems to have a different opinion no matter what the sport or hobby so I tried to do my best. Trust me, spending the time and money, I'd rather it be right so went with what I thought was it.

So, are you telling me that the Rubicon Express kit is junk along with the Pro Comp MT2 Extremes? Or do you think it's the way they set it up? Thanks in advance for the helpful feedback of course.

JK717

Thanks for the info! Was told by so many that this was the way to go

afpilot82

Were those telling you this 4 Wheel Parts employees? A little bit of research will tell you cam bolts are less than ideal.

JK717

Just the kit as a whole I was told was great……BUT I didn't research the cam bolt option!

Mark Doiron

Do the chalk test, but you'll likely confirm that around 30 PSI is what you need. That will help some.

Whether a kit is "complete" or not depends on the definition of "complete". That is, if the vehicle is used entirely on paved roads, then you can get away with a taller lift with fewer, and less expensive parts. That is the approach that most lift manufacturers take. After that it's up to the Jeep owner to add more (or better) components that are needed. Some are needed immediately, some can wait. Cam bolts address the change in caster, making the steering feel better after a lift. However, they are not really off-road suitable. I wouldn't be so harsh as to say they identify a "cheap" lift, since many lift manufacturers provide nothing to address caster change. But, they are really more suitable for paved road use only. Driveshafts are another example. Put enough lift on and you will need new ones sooner rather than later. Doing something about the rear axle coil springs is another. Keep an eye on your rear springs and see if they contact the trackbar--probably on the passenger side. If so, the proper answer is to cut off the perches and weld them back up on top of the axle (as the Jeep was lifted, the axle rotated around, pointing them slightly off of vertical towards the back of the Jeep, which causes the springs to bow backwards).

BTW, in general this is why many on this forum recommend going with the minimum lift for the tire size you choose. That is, a 2.5" lift will accommodate 35" tires, and it has less need for more parts than a taller lift. It is easier to set up because of that. It provides a lower center of gravity. The only real loss is a slight decrease in approach and departure angles. Contrary to what most pick-up truck drivers think, lifts do not provide clearance over obstacles. Larger tires do. So only install as much lift as needed to accommodate those tires, and save money and modification hassles while you're at it. Did those nice folks at 4WP explain all of that to you? I know it's too late for you to do anything, but at least you'll be in a better position to help others. Here's some great info from Dirtman on this subject ...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/