Originally Posted by Mark Doiron

Do the chalk test, but you'll likely confirm that around 30 PSI is what you need. That will help some.

Whether a kit is "complete" or not depends on the definition of "complete". That is, if the vehicle is used entirely on paved roads, then you can get away with a taller lift with fewer, and less expensive parts. That is the approach that most lift manufacturers take. After that it's up to the Jeep owner to add more (or better) components that are needed. Some are needed immediately, some can wait. Cam bolts address the change in caster, making the steering feel better after a lift. However, they are not really off-road suitable. I wouldn't be so harsh as to say they identify a "cheap" lift, since many lift manufacturers provide nothing to address caster change. But, they are really more suitable for paved road use only. Driveshafts are another example. Put enough lift on and you will need new ones sooner rather than later. Doing something about the rear axle coil springs is another. Keep an eye on your rear springs and see if they contact the trackbar--probably on the passenger side. If so, the proper answer is to cut off the perches and weld them back up on top of the axle (as the Jeep was lifted, the axle rotated around, pointing them slightly off of vertical towards the back of the Jeep, which causes the springs to bow backwards).

BTW, in general this is why many on this forum recommend going with the minimum lift for the tire size you choose. That is, a 2.5" lift will accommodate 35" tires, and it has less need for more parts than a taller lift. It is easier to set up because of that. It provides a lower center of gravity. The only real loss is a slight decrease in approach and departure angles. Contrary to what most pick-up truck drivers think, lifts do not provide clearance over obstacles. Larger tires do. So only install as much lift as needed to accommodate those tires, and save money and modification hassles while you're at it. Did those nice folks at 4WP explain all of that to you? I know it's too late for you to do anything, but at least you'll be in a better position to help others. Here's some great info from Dirtman on this subject ...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/

Originally Posted by JK717

Ouch……play nice with the newbs, we have feelings too! I did do my research by the way BUT like everything out there, everyone says that theirs is the best and I can chase my tail for weeks deciding. Everyone seems to have a different opinion no matter what the sport or hobby so I tried to do my best. Trust me, spending the time and money, I'd rather it be right so went with what I thought was it.

So, are you telling me that the Rubicon Express kit is junk along with the Pro Comp MT2 Extremes? Or do you think it's the way they set it up? Thanks in advance for the helpful feedback of course.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

Sorry but I am rather direct and speak my mind. If you had actually done research for the JK the Rubicon Express would not be on your jeep. It had a good following on the TJ and older models but their poor quality joints and suspect geometry put them into bankruptcy a few years back when they were bought by the big 4wd parts store. They push this lift and tell you how good it is because they own it. They take short cuts to keep the cost down like the cam bolts which may work alright for a car but on an lifted offroad vehicle they are a poor way to adjust the caster. Of course this is covered in the stickies at the top of the modified section. Its been said that tire pressure will help you out in ride quality. Coils, shocks, raised track bars and control arm drop brackets all can have an affect on ride quality in the jeep. It generally comes down to your budget and the desire for height. Most will go cheap to acheive the height because they for some reason think a lift gives you more capability when all it does is screw up your geometry when using most of the bolt on kits out there. Good luck on your build

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

It does get old, thats why I wrote "my thoughts on lifts", but unfortianally people don't know how to use forums, phrase search requests, or think they have some special unique request. I would say the frequency of lift questions also make me so blunt in my responses.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

It does get old, thats why I wrote "my thoughts on lifts", but unfortianally people don't know how to use forums, phrase search requests, or think they have some special unique request. I would say the frequency of lift questions also make me so blunt in my responses.

Originally Posted by JK717

... My question is the ride quality after this was done…..It has a little bit of a hobble (can be felt in the steering wheel), depending on the speed. On the highway I can feel a little bit of a hobble/vibration also. It's not terribly bad but I was just not sure if this is to be expected and "normal" with the lift and tires. ...

Originally Posted by Mark Doiron

Do the chalk test, but you'll likely confirm that around 30 PSI is what you need. That will help some.

Whether a kit is "complete" or not depends on the definition of "complete". That is, if the vehicle is used entirely on paved roads, then you can get away with a taller lift with fewer, and less expensive parts. That is the approach that most lift manufacturers take. After that it's up to the Jeep owner to add more (or better) components that are needed. Some are needed immediately, some can wait. Cam bolts address the change in caster, making the steering feel better after a lift. However, they are not really off-road suitable. I wouldn't be so harsh as to say they identify a "cheap" lift, since many lift manufacturers provide nothing to address caster change. But, they are really more suitable for paved road use only. Driveshafts are another example. Put enough lift on and you will need new ones sooner rather than later. Doing something about the rear axle coil springs is another. Keep an eye on your rear springs and see if they contact the trackbar--probably on the passenger side. If so, the proper answer is to cut off the perches and weld them back up on top of the axle (as the Jeep was lifted, the axle rotated around, pointing them slightly off of vertical towards the back of the Jeep, which causes the springs to bow backwards).

BTW, in general this is why many on this forum recommend going with the minimum lift for the tire size you choose. That is, a 2.5" lift will accommodate 35" tires, and it has less need for more parts than a taller lift. It is easier to set up because of that. It provides a lower center of gravity. The only real loss is a slight decrease in approach and departure angles. Contrary to what most pick-up truck drivers think, lifts do not provide clearance over obstacles. Larger tires do. So only install as much lift as needed to accommodate those tires, and save money and modification hassles while you're at it. Did those nice folks at 4WP explain all of that to you? I know it's too late for you to do anything, but at least you'll be in a better position to help others. Here's some great info from Dirtman on this subject ...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/