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My rig is a '13 JKU (4dr) with a RK 3.5 lift, 3" bump stops, Nitto TG 37's, Currie VXR60s, with Spyderlock 3.5" BS wheels. Rig is on the heavy side with front and rear bumpers, winch, rock sliders.
I am getting a little tire rub. It seems as though I am fine at the rear, but I am getting a slight rub at the front. Happens at hard turns in parking lots ( if not taken slowly) and driving turns that have rough roads.
I've attached some pics of the tires when wheel is turned. I know that the Rubi rails extend just a hair past the sheet metal but just barely. Hard to tell much from the pics I know. It doesn't seem that the fenders are actually making contact. It seems that it is just inside at the fender liner near the bottom and body sheet metal which is covered by the liner. Hopefully that explanation makes sense. I'm not sure that going with flat fenders will clear it either. Just hard to tell.
What do you think is best option? Install 4.5" springs, 1" body lift, other? Do you think flat fenders will do it. 1" body lift would probably be the cheapest option, but would it look okay or be very noticeable? Thoughts?
That backspacing with the 'low' lift is what is doing it to you. Flat flares may help but probably won't because most of them reuse the stock liners unless you pay the premium for their liners. Longer springs are another option but you seem to be looking for cheap and quick. Why not throw in a coil spacer for the time being? It'll allow you to figure out whose coils you want to move to and what height.
I had a similar rub with 37*13.5's, 3.5" bs, 2.5" RK coils. I switched coils and the problem isn't a problem anymore. Also, check the frame to make sure you're not touching back there, it'll chew up the inside of your tires nicely.
The tire clearance by the back side of the fender looks tight. How much clearance do you have in the front?
My thought is that some front adjustable control arms may help to move the axle forward to re-center the axle if you have more clearance infront of the tire or some re-adjustment if you already have adjustable arms.
That backspacing with the 'low' lift is what is doing it to you. Flat flares may help but probably won't because most of them reuse the stock liners unless you pay the premium for their liners. Longer springs are another option but you seem to be looking for cheap and quick. Why not throw in a coil spacer for the time being? It'll allow you to figure out whose coils you want to move to and what height.
I had a similar rub with 37*13.5's, 3.5" bs, 2.5" RK coils. I switched coils and the problem isn't a problem anymore. Also, check the frame to make sure you're not touching back there, it'll chew up the inside of your tires nicely.
What coils (ht. and manu.) did you end up going with? Looks like I'm good, best I tell, with the frame clearance.
The tire clearance by the back side of the fender looks tight. How much clearance do you have in the front?
My thought is that some front adjustable control arms may help to move the axle forward to re-center the axle if you have more clearance infront of the tire or some re-adjustment if you already have adjustable arms.
I've got all 8 adjustable RK control arms. I've got plenty of clearance in the front. I believe they are all adjusted for proper caster/pinion, etc. However, I can always double check this.
I went with Metalcloak, not saying that they're the best but they were an improvement over what I had. I've noticed a ride difference (no bottoming out) and a difference in settled height, even with the same weight and length coil, 2.5". It's not the cheapest route but depending on the age of your coils, could be the best route.
I've got all 8 adjustable RK control arms. I've got plenty of clearance in the front. I believe they are all adjusted for proper caster/pinion, etc. However, I can always double check this.
If you have front upper and lower adjustable arms, then you should be able to increase the length of the lowers, while decreasing the length of the uppers the same amount to move the axle forward, while maintaining the proper caster/pinion. I'm sure someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but that seems to be your problem if you have plenty of space in front of the tire since the tires should be centered inside of the wheel well.
If you have front upper and lower adjustable arms, then you should be able to increase the length of the lowers, while decreasing the length of the uppers the same amount to move the axle forward, while maintaining the proper caster/pinion. I'm sure someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but that seems to be your problem if you have plenty of space in front of the tire since the tires should be centered inside of the wheel well.
Yup... what you describe would retain the same caster...
Food for thought.....if you add coil spacer or taller springs, you know where you'll be? Right back to adjusting all four front arms cuz you changed your caster again!
My advice, ditch the factory flares for something else. I have essentially same set up. 3.5" RK springs, 37" TG's on 3.5" BS. My rails are MAYBE 1/4" shorter up front as I trimmed flush with with the seam. Difference, I'm fenderless. Look how much clearance that fender is eating up compared to my pics. Although I have MC arms, I have to think we're adjusted just about the same lengths.
**the rubbing on my frame rail there in the pic if from previous setup and I just have never bothered to touch it up**
Last edited by resharp001; 06-20-2018 at 06:34 PM.
I'm also on 3.5" RK coils (4 dr 2.5's) with 37's, 3.5" backspacing Methods, and adjustable CA's, and I do not have this problem. You should extend the CA's a tad...or get rid of those factory fenders. Flat fenders will get rid of your problems, guaranteed.
06-20-2018, 08:37 AM
Tire Clearance/Rubbing
