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2015 JK Sport aftermarket heated seats using OEM factory switch mod

Old 03-03-2017, 07:06 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by doba
Now I need to pull the dash back apart and chase down the short. I'm thinking I should possibly wire this directly to the fuse panel rather than tap off of the lighter to simplify the wiring and access to the fuses and relays.

Never ending.
Hmmmm. My outlet there is just a simple 12v rather than an actual cig lighter, but that is where my heaters are tapped for power. No issues for me.
Old 03-06-2017, 06:36 AM
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Yeah sorry it's just a 12v outlet. Grew up with them having cigarette lighters in them and prior to cell phones that was their primary use.

I ended up rewriring everything so I don't have to pull the dash to troubleshoot every time. Ended up putting the relays and fuse holders behind the glove box and ran a dedicated circuit to the main fuse panel. Wow there is a lot of room behind the glove box. Essentially created a wiring mess but it's so much easier to access.

I also looked at the wiring schematic in how this thing works which is pretty interesting. Essentially uses the relay to change the wiring scheme to go from parallel to series which cuts the load in half or doubles depending on the switch and relay position. I couldn't figure out what was shorting out which was the treason I rewired it this way it's in its own circuit which keeps it clean. Will report back on my findings.
Old 03-20-2019, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by chadecoen
More of a pictorial really. Sorry not a better write up.

I have been trying like heck to put heated seats in my Jeep and use the factory switches. There is a thread somewhere that mentions a guy in FL that can re-program the computer if you want to add all of the factory parts. IIRC, it was a $ hundo or a little over? Too rich for my blood. (Actually I want auto lights too and thought about having him program both but still too much $ for me). I saw a video of a guy adding a micro switch between the OEM switch cover and the PCB board behind it. Looked promising so I studied the circuit forums for a while and designed a momentary clicky switch layout using micro relays and a debouncer but it quickly became too complex and I was still not sure I could get a momentary switch to do Off-low-hi-off again. I know our switch panel has a PCB sandwiched behind the switch covers. I assumed (HA HA) that my lowly little sport was not using all of that PCB and it was just there for Jeeps with more options than mine. So long story short, I hacked off the ends of the PCB behind the blank switch covers, gutted the switch holes, glued the blank switch covers on the heated seat switches, and then glued the switches in the now gutted holes. Everything worked as planned. See pics:

Attachment 638453Attachment 638454Attachment 638455
Our switch panel is pretty neat design actually. All of the switch covers not being used are already hinged and ready to be used but the sides are left long and won't allow the switch to move. Just requires a little trimming and they actuate as Jeep designed them too. The pics should show the slide and rocker hinge mechanism of the switches.
Attachment 638456Attachment 638457Attachment 638458
Took out the PCB measured and hacked off the ends. Then I gutted the two end switch slots to make room for the aftermarket switches. I did not use the factory hinge parts, I used the aftermarket switches to provide the rocking action.
Attachment 638462Attachment 638463Attachment 638465
I pulled the switch covers off of the aftermarket switches and glued them to the underside of the OEM Jeep blanks. I forgot to take a pick before starting so I included a generic of the switches that came with my kit. I also wanted a way for the LED to show when turned on so after the glue set I drilled through the LED holes in the aftermarket switches through the OEM blanks. I broke a tong or tine or whatever off of a clear plastic acrylic dinner fork. I sanded it down and rounded it until it snuggly pierced the aftermarket switch hole and stuck out of the front of the OEM switch blank. I then cut off the excess flush with the switch cover.
Attachment 638467Attachment 638468Attachment 638469Attachment 638470
Reassembled the switch covers with the switch body and placed them in the switch panel and clamped them up with some paint sticks. Made sure they were square and plumb and glued the switches in the jeep switch panel. In that last pic you can see the new LED hole and clear fork thingy.
Attachment 638471Attachment 638472Attachment 638473
Bonus pics. Remember boys and girls, if you take your dash apart, there is one more hidden screw behind the power window switch area. If you forget it and just pull it will break your dash in two. Hard to tell in the pics, but I bent up a piece of scrap aluminum and clamped and glued the broken area back together while I had the glue out. I forgot to take a pic of the alum before gluing in place. Terrible write up, I know.
Attachment 638474Attachment 638475Attachment 638476
Test run - glue all dried up, time to see if they actually work. Yep, little brighter than I would have thought also. Up is normal, middle is off, and down is inferno. (yes, I nicked the shit out of the TSC switch )
No worries though, I will be replacing this set up with a switch panel from a JK with OEM heated seats to get the real heated seat switch covers with the little heater picture on it. And I know I'll have to rework the LED layout too.
Attachment 638477Attachment 638478
I have to say, Jeep has come a long ways. This was way harder and tighter spaces than any old CJ or TJ. I found it much more difficult to run wires and what not. Here you see damn near no room for relays behind the net panel. But there was one little nook that fit them perfect once I attached the relays together.
Attachment 638479
All done. All I need now is a little heated seat sticker or a switch panel from a JK that came with heated seats. Maybe I can find a graphics company that can make me a transfer sticker or something. Right now they are my "secret" switches!

Hope it helps someone.

Super stoked to see this detailed write up. I was floored a few days ago to lear the 'blanks' on the JK OEM switch panel are not exactly blanks - Shame on MOPAR for this... BT now I have hope as it seems wasteful to not use what appears to be 5 blank switch places.. This gives me hope. Getting experienced help installing an ARB air compressor under the hood tomorrow, an toyota & buggy offroader not a jeep man, yet this may help move things forward. Will try to take pics & post back
Old 05-30-2019, 09:23 PM
  #14  
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Default My PCB isn’t the same! I’m scared...

Originally Posted by chadecoen
More of a pictorial really. Sorry not a better write up.

I have been trying like heck to put heated seats in my Jeep and use the factory switches. There is a thread somewhere that mentions a guy in FL that can re-program the computer if you want to add all of the factory parts. IIRC, it was a $ hundo or a little over? Too rich for my blood. (Actually I want auto lights too and thought about having him program both but still too much $ for me). I saw a video of a guy adding a micro switch between the OEM switch cover and the PCB board behind it. Looked promising so I studied the circuit forums for a while and designed a momentary clicky switch layout using micro relays and a debouncer but it quickly became too complex and I was still not sure I could get a momentary switch to do Off-low-hi-off again. I know our switch panel has a PCB sandwiched behind the switch covers. I assumed (HA HA) that my lowly little sport was not using all of that PCB and it was just there for Jeeps with more options than mine. So long story short, I hacked off the ends of the PCB behind the blank switch covers, gutted the switch holes, glued the blank switch covers on the heated seat switches, and then glued the switches in the now gutted holes. Everything worked as planned. See pics:

Attachment 638453Attachment 638454Attachment 638455
Our switch panel is pretty neat design actually. All of the switch covers not being used are already hinged and ready to be used but the sides are left long and won't allow the switch to move. Just requires a little trimming and they actuate as Jeep designed them too. The pics should show the slide and rocker hinge mechanism of the switches.
Attachment 638456Attachment 638457Attachment 638458
Took out the PCB measured and hacked off the ends. Then I gutted the two end switch slots to make room for the aftermarket switches. I did not use the factory hinge parts, I used the aftermarket switches to provide the rocking action.
Attachment 638462Attachment 638463Attachment 638465
I pulled the switch covers off of the aftermarket switches and glued them to the underside of the OEM Jeep blanks. I forgot to take a pick before starting so I included a generic of the switches that came with my kit. I also wanted a way for the LED to show when turned on so after the glue set I drilled through the LED holes in the aftermarket switches through the OEM blanks. I broke a tong or tine or whatever off of a clear plastic acrylic dinner fork. I sanded it down and rounded it until it snuggly pierced the aftermarket switch hole and stuck out of the front of the OEM switch blank. I then cut off the excess flush with the switch cover.
Attachment 638467Attachment 638468Attachment 638469Attachment 638470
Reassembled the switch covers with the switch body and placed them in the switch panel and clamped them up with some paint sticks. Made sure they were square and plumb and glued the switches in the jeep switch panel. In that last pic you can see the new LED hole and clear fork thingy.
Attachment 638471Attachment 638472Attachment 638473
Bonus pics. Remember boys and girls, if you take your dash apart, there is one more hidden screw behind the power window switch area. If you forget it and just pull it will break your dash in two. Hard to tell in the pics, but I bent up a piece of scrap aluminum and clamped and glued the broken area back together while I had the glue out. I forgot to take a pic of the alum before gluing in place. Terrible write up, I know.
Attachment 638474Attachment 638475Attachment 638476
Test run - glue all dried up, time to see if they actually work. Yep, little brighter than I would have thought also. Up is normal, middle is off, and down is inferno. (yes, I nicked the shit out of the TSC switch )
No worries though, I will be replacing this set up with a switch panel from a JK with OEM heated seats to get the real heated seat switch covers with the little heater picture on it. And I know I'll have to rework the LED layout too.
Attachment 638477Attachment 638478
I have to say, Jeep has come a long ways. This was way harder and tighter spaces than any old CJ or TJ. I found it much more difficult to run wires and what not. Here you see damn near no room for relays behind the net panel. But there was one little nook that fit them perfect once I attached the relays together.
Attachment 638479
All done. All I need now is a little heated seat sticker or a switch panel from a JK that came with heated seats. Maybe I can find a graphics company that can make me a transfer sticker or something. Right now they are my "secret" switches!

Hope it helps someone.

How would I know what part of the PCB is ok to cut off since mine has the hill decent control?
Old 05-31-2019, 04:35 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Camron Walker

How would I know what part of the PCB is ok to cut off since mine has the hill decent control?
Man, no idea, sorry! That's a good question, one with scary consequences. Mine was a 2015 pretty bare Sport model. Sorry, but I have no idea what parts of your PCB are being used. I have seen other threads using micro switches and one even using a custom thermostatically controlled relay box and neither involved cutting up the factory PCB. If I had to do over, I would likely use the custom little relay box next time.
Old 01-05-2021, 12:37 PM
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Hello,
are you surely cutting the bord won't affect the other switches, please let me know want use other as USB charge


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