stack79

I know I got the eggs before the basket but here is my first write-up. I will soon add the hitch, but wanted to tackle the tougher first. I bought a new 2010 Unlimited 4 door sport in bright silver. As one of the stipulations of my purchase, it was agreed by my “Stealer” to get cost on parts the first week. I ordered a 7 way trailer harness, part #82210214AB. When my part came in, the cashier sent me home with the wrong receipt. Retail: $88.50, I paid: $77.44, cost: $61.95. It an OK deal, but the proof is in the pudding, CROOKS. I digress, got it home and studied the included “destructions”. Mostly pictures and works for most models, one size fits all. Studied the forum and found some helpful info and included everything I learned and what worked for me.

This is a link to the included instructions from MOPAR. http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/75397.pdf

Things to know: 7 way plug is designed to hook to a trailer with electric trailer brakes. The harness does not include an adapter for 4 way flat plug to trailers without brakes. Adapters can be bought anywhere, and include things like a cigarette lighter plug for powering accessories. The opposite end of the harness does not include a plug to connect the power brake module. As far as I have learned, DC does not make an add-on harness for the brake module. You can buy a universal plug anywhere you can buy trailer wiring products. Most vehicle makers use different “pigtail” plugs for the brake module, so make sure you get one that matches your module.

The harness construction is as follows; the business end of the harness starts with a y set of plugs to “tap” into the left rear taillight, followed by the connection plug for the 7 way plug, and mounting bracket. A little further is a relay, for what I am not sure. The harness is mostly covered in split loom conduit and heat shield. Near the end of the harness, a blue wire splits out to run into the cab to attach to your pigtail to send the brake signal to the trailer. At the end is a negative to attach to the battery and a fused positive.

Tools needed; ratchet, 1/4”, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm sockets, Phillips head and T20 screwdrivers, drill and 1/8” bit, electrical tape, rust inhibitor, deburing tool, fish wire, and RTV sealant.



Caution wait until muffler is cool to run harness to avoid burns.



1.Disconect negative battery cable using 10mm socket. Tuck end of the cable under nearby wires to prevent wire memory from resetting cable.



2.Using Phillips head scrwdriver, remove the drivers side taillight assembly. Unscrew the two screws on the right. Keep the screws handy to reapply taillight.



3. Remove the taillight by sliding to the rear and right. Unplug the plug from the back of the light by pressing down the push down in the middle and separating the two plugs.



4.Bundle up the loose wires on the end and tape flying ends to fuse holder. Insert fuse into taillight opening. Inside the cavity, there is rigid foam plugging the bottom. The fuel line run toward the front of the compartment. Shove the harness down the path of the fuel lines, leaving only the y outside the opening.





5.Plug the y between the original lead and the taillight.



6.Reinstall the taillight by hooking the tabs on the left side and then seating the light housing. Screw the two screws back in place.



7.If you have a lift, this step is easier, but a jack in the front worked for me. If you have any lift, you can creep underneath. The harness hangs down on the left side of the frame from the taillight. Route the harness across the frame and over the muffler bracket. Use a zip tie and secure to this bracket. Route harness to the rear, along frame cross-member. I used teo zip ties together to attach harness to frame member.





8.With the harness pulled tight, use bracket to mark places to drill, as close to center of bumper as harness will allow. Drill 1/8” holes for bracket in cross-member. De-burr hole and seal with rust inhibitor. Attach bracket using the two ¼” machine screws. Zip tie harness to cross-member near the right end of the muffler.



9.Route harness over muffler mount, toward the center of the vehicle.



10.There is y spring bracket in the center of the tub that you can zip tie to. If you have a 2 door, loop excess harness here.



11. Route harness over cross-members at evap. canister and tie. Route over transfer case toward passenger side.



12.Using a fish wire, route harness thru motor compartment near the battery. Zip tie to oxygen sensor.



13.Lower vehicle.

14.Pull harness up near battery.



15.Run blue wire with looms across firewall. Zip tie to looms.



16.Use fish to run blue wire into cab through rubber bushing on the upper drivers corner of firewall.



17.Retrieve fish and wire in drivers floor well and bundle wire.

18.Plug 7 way plug into harness at the rear of the vehicle. Mount the 7 way plug to the bracket.



19.Re-attach the negative battery cable. Caution the horn will honk when power is restored.

20.Connect white wire to the negative binding post using 12mm socket. Connect red wire with white stripe to the positive binding post using 10mm socket. Zip tie fuse holder to the something near the battery.



Test the trailer lights through the new 7 way plug. Trailer brakes will not work at this point. The blue wire in the cab needs to be connected to a brake module. Stay tuned for my next write-ups, including hitch install, and brake module pig tail. Of course there is always a bag of left over parts.

HG07JKRubi

Nice write-up. Here's an alternate mounting location in the factory rear bumper that will save you some headache if you off-road ...

Rhino64

Very nice write-up plan on doing this soon.

jonster

Excellent write-up and pictures. Very helpful and nice place to mount the plug. Have you completed your next write-up of hooking up the brake controller? This is where I need some noew info. Specifically about finding the "trigger" wire for the brakes.

mainejeeper

I thought I invented the bumper 7-way plug! Great minds think alike
Nathan

OnBelay

I just installed mine this afternoon; perhaps this write-up would have saved me a bit of time, because the MOPAR instructions are not that great. When it was all finished, it dawned on me that there is a MUCH easier way to do this install. If I were to do it again, I would remove the wiring from the loom and route the positive lead through the rubber grommet at the top of the driver's side tail light area, under the carpet, up the driver's side foot well, and then out through the driver's side firewall. I'd shorten the ground wire and attach it to a bolt in the rear bumper. Then I'd just solder the fuse back onto the positive lead at some point next to the battery.

The MOPAR wiring loom is really cool -- heat shield and all -- but I will probably re-wire it as stated above. That way I never have to worry about heat, debris, etc., messing with my wiring.

-Dawn Marie

mostlystock

I'm about to install the same harness (MOPAR 82210214AB) - I did a rough install tonight, loosely routing and zip tying the harness along the underside of the Jeep. By the time I got it to the motor area, it looked like it wasn't going to reach to the battery.

Since the battery is on the passenger side, and the instructions show you tapping into the driver's side tail light and running the harness across the muffler to the right-hand side of the Jeep, I'm wondering why not just tap into the right tail light and gain some extra cable length?

Maybe it just needs to be run tightly and in an "as the crow flies" manner whenever possible. Going to take another stab at it tomorrow.

In the meantime, has anyone who has run this cable on a 4-door found that it's almost too short?

mostlystock

It took a solid day and much cursing but 7-way trailer tow harness and brake controller are installed. Untested, but installed. If anyone needs tips or help with installing the MOPAR 7-way harness or Tekonsha Voyager brake controller, PM me. I should have done a real write-up but if I stopped to document it along the way, I'd still be under the Jeep.

The hardest part, by far, was accessing and working on the brake switch wire, which is very short and stuffed into the pedals area in such a way that it's nearly impossible to squish your body under the dash on the driver's side and then contort it so you can work on the connector. Hope I don't ever have to do that again.

TJeeper

This is the way I did it. I already had the flat four plug so I cheated and used a male plug for that, then ran the extra wires through the interior. That way I was able to send one to the brake controller, then use the same one for the power to the brake controller. I mounted a couple automatically resetting fuses next the battery (brake controller and aux power). For the brake input I tapped a wire on the drivers side fender that is (IIRC) a relay for the ABS system. Don't remember the color. I found the info on the web (maybe JF) and verified it with my multimeter.

TheePsycho

For those that did a different 7way plug with cutting the harness can anyone tell me which wire colors are which.

Well figured out the wires useing a circuit tester on the stock 7-way.
Be sure to check to make sure.

2x White Wires = Ground
Red = 12 volt
Blue = Electric Brakes
White / Yellow = STOP/TURN RIGHT
White / Brownish Gry = BACKUP LIGHT
White / Light Green = PARKING LAMP
White / Turquoise = STOP/TURN LEFT