Advance Adapters Shifter Cable Upgrade Write Up!!!
09-21-2011, 08:34 AM
#11
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Very nice write up, thanks again for doing this, we hope you enjoy your new shifter. Now you can wheel in confidence knowing your transfer case shifter will not be a problem. We will add you to the list for future development and testing of New JK products from Advance Adapters, that is of coarse if you are interested.
AA
AA
09-21-2011, 08:42 AM
#12
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Owl
Very nice write up. Thanks!
I would like to know your process for attaching the cable to the t-case. In the Advanced Adapter video, the t-case was sitting on a bench when they installed the bracket. Needless to say, I doubt if you removed the t-case for this installation. Any further information would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to know your process for attaching the cable to the t-case. In the Advanced Adapter video, the t-case was sitting on a bench when they installed the bracket. Needless to say, I doubt if you removed the t-case for this installation. Any further information would be greatly appreciated.
To take off the old shifter lever i used a little mini 1/4" drive ratchet and a 10mm socket held upside down.
With the new hardware, which was 7/16 i believe, bolted right up with 3/8 inch ratchet. Also a little angular work to get it tightened on there. When i shifted into low, while tightening the bolt and new lever on, i was able to get one more good push to finish it up.
The hardware to bolt up the cable to the new shifter was the same bolts as used on the lever. It may be required to use a longer bolt that is provided and a spacer if you do not have a rubi. I had to use the longer bolt and spacer with my 2.72:1 241, simple - bolt head, heim, spacer, through lever, nylock nut. With the nut closest to the case was how i mounted mine.
The cable then attaches back to the stock location drop bracket with provided washers, nuts, and a lock washer in between. And if everything goes smoothly tighten it up.
There is an adjustable kind of feel to the cables threaded sections its about 2-2.5 inches of threads. These sections are where the cable bolts at the shifter levers at both the t-case and the console. I simply centered both of them and bolted them in place.
Kind of went on and on, i apologize. Hope i answered a question somewhere in there, Damn absent minded brain.
09-21-2011, 08:59 AM
#13
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Advance Adapters
Very nice write up, thanks again for doing this, we hope you enjoy your new shifter. Now you can wheel in confidence knowing your transfer case shifter will not be a problem. We will add you to the list for future development and testing of New JK products from Advance Adapters, that is of coarse if you are interested.
AA
AA
Anyone deserves that who has had to get towed, to the stealer or the garage. Has had to lay on their back to shift back into 2hi with channel locks, vise grips, or something else more creative. Or, been hit with the confusion of how a thirty cent part found its way into your drivetrain, and failed on you.
With your help A A, it was made possible. I replaced both bushings with no success to get my 4wd light off from the dash. The cable worked and shifted but something wasn't registering at the t-case. During my test drive that was corrected after install.
I haven't been using my front driveline on the road assuming it would maybe engage. I have gotten really good at taking it off and putting it on, to hit the trails. With winter on the way this couldn't be more of a blessing. I will always be grateful for this amazing chance to correct this issue permanently.
Thanks a million times over, !
And thanks for taking the time to help the jeepers (JKers) out, it really means a lot to me, and was great to be a part of.
Im not crying, i promise.
Advance Adapters rocks!!!
09-21-2011, 09:08 AM
#14
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GCM 2
Thanks for doing such a great job on the write up 
During the most recent JK Experience in Colorado, day one Holy Cross trail, on the second obstacle, my stock t-case shift cable broke. After seeing just how cheap that Mopar part is made, it's kind of scary to think what other areas of the JK are made with equal or lesser materials. Bottom line, a jeep dealer in a town the JKX was passing through had one in stock, $34.00 for a replacement, changed it in the parking lot of a Holiday Inn Express. I would have bought two if the dealer had another, I just hope this new one last until my Atlas 4 speed upgrade happens. Thanks again for the great job with words and photos.
During the most recent JK Experience in Colorado, day one Holy Cross trail, on the second obstacle, my stock t-case shift cable broke. After seeing just how cheap that Mopar part is made, it's kind of scary to think what other areas of the JK are made with equal or lesser materials. Bottom line, a jeep dealer in a town the JKX was passing through had one in stock, $34.00 for a replacement, changed it in the parking lot of a Holiday Inn Express. I would have bought two if the dealer had another, I just hope this new one last until my Atlas 4 speed upgrade happens. Thanks again for the great job with words and photos.
09-21-2011, 09:31 AM
#15
JK Super Freak
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The Rubicon T-case is good, but that's not enough peace of mind that I need for some of the trails we tackle, and after seeing the craptastic parts selection Chrysler chooses to place at either end of the shift cables, I don't trust the whole design. There is a reason why the greater majority of people who compete and wheel hard run Advance Adapters t-cases, they are engineered and built for serious duty use. Thanks again for the great write up!
09-21-2011, 09:41 AM
#16
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GCM 2
Thanks for the kind words on my rig! An Atlas was always in the works for my build
The Rubicon T-case is good, but that's not enough peace of mind that I need for some of the trails we tackle, and after seeing the craptastic parts selection Chrysler chooses to place at either end of the shift cables, I don't trust the whole design. There is a reason why the greater majority of people who compete and wheel hard run Advance Adapters t-cases, they are engineered and built for serious duty use. Thanks again for the great write up!That's no joke, it would be hilarious to see a 241 on the bench next to an Atlas!!! You guys do some insane trails so it really does make sense.
And for Chrysler, if these are the parts they are now using and relying on. What further degradation will occur in order to simply save a couple dollars on important and vital components? Lots of truth in those words GCM 2. Thanks again for taking a look!
09-21-2011, 10:10 AM
#17
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Owl
Very nice write up. Thanks!
I would like to know your process for attaching the cable to the t-case. In the Advanced Adapter video, the t-case was sitting on a bench when they installed the bracket. Needless to say, I doubt if you removed the t-case for this installation. Any further information would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to know your process for attaching the cable to the t-case. In the Advanced Adapter video, the t-case was sitting on a bench when they installed the bracket. Needless to say, I doubt if you removed the t-case for this installation. Any further information would be greatly appreciated.
Shiny thing is the new quarter inch thick shifter lever, it is easily thirty percent thicker than the stock lever
Last edited by sa29560; 09-21-2011 at 10:13 AM.
09-21-2011, 10:21 AM
#18
Eternal ***erator
Did you have to drop the driveshaft for clearance to work or did you do that just for ease of taking pics?
09-21-2011, 10:35 AM
#19
Thanks for taking a look!
To take off the old shifter lever i used a little mini 1/4" drive ratchet and a 10mm socket held upside down.
With the new hardware, which was 7/16 i believe, bolted right up with 3/8 inch ratchet. Also a little angular work to get it tightened on there. When i shifted into low, while tightening the bolt and new lever on, i was able to get one more good push to finish it up.
The hardware to bolt up the cable to the new shifter was the same bolts as used on the lever. It may be required to use a longer bolt that is provided and a spacer if you do not have a rubi. I had to use the longer bolt and spacer with my 2.72:1 241, simple - bolt head, heim, spacer, through lever, nylock nut. With the nut closest to the case was how i mounted mine.
The cable then attaches back to the stock location drop bracket with provided washers, nuts, and a lock washer in between. And if everything goes smoothly tighten it up.
There is an adjustable kind of feel to the cables threaded sections its about 2-2.5 inches of threads. These sections are where the cable bolts at the shifter levers at both the t-case and the console. I simply centered both of them and bolted them in place.
Kind of went on and on, i apologize. Hope i answered a question somewhere in there, Damn absent minded brain.
To take off the old shifter lever i used a little mini 1/4" drive ratchet and a 10mm socket held upside down.
With the new hardware, which was 7/16 i believe, bolted right up with 3/8 inch ratchet. Also a little angular work to get it tightened on there. When i shifted into low, while tightening the bolt and new lever on, i was able to get one more good push to finish it up.
The hardware to bolt up the cable to the new shifter was the same bolts as used on the lever. It may be required to use a longer bolt that is provided and a spacer if you do not have a rubi. I had to use the longer bolt and spacer with my 2.72:1 241, simple - bolt head, heim, spacer, through lever, nylock nut. With the nut closest to the case was how i mounted mine.
The cable then attaches back to the stock location drop bracket with provided washers, nuts, and a lock washer in between. And if everything goes smoothly tighten it up.
There is an adjustable kind of feel to the cables threaded sections its about 2-2.5 inches of threads. These sections are where the cable bolts at the shifter levers at both the t-case and the console. I simply centered both of them and bolted them in place.
Kind of went on and on, i apologize. Hope i answered a question somewhere in there, Damn absent minded brain.
The write up and the pics. are great. I'm also guessing you removed the DS to remove the old lever and to install the new. Keep up the good work!
09-21-2011, 11:17 AM
#20
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Owl
THANKS!!
The write up and the pics. are great. I'm also guessing you removed the DS to remove the old lever and to install the new. Keep up the good work!
Originally Posted by HappyCurmudgeon
Did you have to drop the driveshaft for clearance to work or did you do that just for ease of taking pics?
Either way, if you have a rubi its gotta come off. The front output flange also has to be removed to r&r the shifter lever. Kit actually comes with a new nut as well. Orig93gt has a rubi, and followed those steps in his install, along with torque specs.
The thing Im wondering is if the 241 models just come with a 10mm and the 241or models come with a t40.
Need any tips on dropping the shaft, it can be done in ten minutes from the sweet spot!