AEV Snorkel Installation Write-Up
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Friendswood, TX
Heck Yes
I just wanted to let you know this thread was one of the deciding factors yesterday when I purchased my AEV Snorkel! 
It will be in on Friday and I plan on putting it on either Sat or Sun morning! Thanks for the writeup!
It will be in on Friday and I plan on putting it on either Sat or Sun morning! Thanks for the writeup!
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,389
Likes: 2
From: N.Y.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Good work - I love the AEV snorkel. Great look, design, and relatively inexpensive when you compare it. I did mine over the summer, and LOVE it.
I too decided on the AEV snorkel once I saw someone with a black JK put a thread up about it...it showed that it can be done easily, which helps get people over the fact they have to chop the hood!
Again, good work - now it's time. Well, maybe not @ 6am Eastern time...wait til lunch time at least, lol 
I too decided on the AEV snorkel once I saw someone with a black JK put a thread up about it...it showed that it can be done easily, which helps get people over the fact they have to chop the hood!
Again, good work - now it's time. Well, maybe not @ 6am Eastern time...wait til lunch time at least, lol
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 5
From: Avondale, Arizona
Awesome right up man. Your pictures cover the process perfectly 
I installed my aev snorkel a few weeks back too. For anyone thats iffy because you have to cut the hood; i have no sheetmetal, cutting, sawing experience what so-ever and i didnt have any problems installing it. I probally wasn't even using the right type of dremel
I also just used 3m tape for the peice that goes on the hood as i didnt want to drill 1/8 holes and use rivets and its not going anywhere
I installed my aev snorkel a few weeks back too. For anyone thats iffy because you have to cut the hood; i have no sheetmetal, cutting, sawing experience what so-ever and i didnt have any problems installing it. I probally wasn't even using the right type of dremel
I also just used 3m tape for the peice that goes on the hood as i didnt want to drill 1/8 holes and use rivets and its not going anywhere
Last edited by Croce; Feb 10, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
Installed my AEV Snorkel this past weekend
Here are a few of my own thoughts while doing this installation.
1. I used a dremel with metal cut-off wheels to make the cut, running about 9000rpm. The secret is to make short cuts and keep the hood metal cool to prevent the paint from bubbling up due to the cutting friction. I would recommend against using cutting fluid. It just makes a huge mess. I did not use a hole saw. My dremel has a remote "pen grip" attatchment that made this cut very easy to do using the template from AEV. You can practice your cutting on the hood (the portion that will be removed) before you make the "real" cut. It helps to practice. Just take your time. For the curved sections, use relief cuts (approx 1/16" each) to make it much easier. Once the rough cut is in, clean it up. The inner portion of the hood was very awkward to do, as I had to lean backwards over the engine bay and work facing upwards. No big deal. Please wear eye protection and something to cover your face as sparks will fly. I used an old t-shirt, pulled up over my nose. It made for a great show. I also covered the exposed intake tube from the stock airbox with a tied-off plastic bag to prevent unwanted steel and paint dust from entering the intake.
2. Inserting the AEV snorkel into the stock airbox.
I was starting to cuss at this point because the snorkel would not seat into the old airbox. There is a small lip on the snorkel that will lock into the airbox. Use a long shaft flathead screwdriver and twist slightly at the junction to raise the opening rim of the stock airbox to accomodate the snorkel lip. Gentle, here. It will snap into place easily this way.
3. RTV is messy. Have shop towels handy. Make sure you seal the aformentioned rim junction to the stock airbox, as well as the drain holes. It is easy to forget.
4. Apply a small square of 3M double-sided tape between the metal snorkel brackets and your paint. It will help hold the brackets in place while installing the snorkel-airbox combo, and also protect your paint from scratches.
5. Lube the airbox mounting gaskets to aid in installation.. I used petroleum jelly, just a small dab.
6. DO NOT use power tools to tighten the brackets to the snorkel or your windshield screws. You need to be able to "feel" if you are stressing the connection. The same thing applies to the bracket screws into the snorkel.
7. Use 3M double-sided tape to hold the trim piece in place.
8. Drilling holes for trim ring. Position your trim ring like you want it and drill your 1/8" holes for the first and last rivets ONLY. Install those rivets first, THEN drill the remaining holes. Otherwise, the trim piece may "float" a little and the holes may not line up and you'll have to oversize the holes to compensate which will lead to #9....
8a. I used touch-up paint from Autozone (flame/poppy red) to paint the freshly drilled holes and the trimmed area (after some sanding).. while you are at it, walk around the Jeep and touch up some of those rock chips and nicks around all sides. My tailgate area needed several areas touched-up.
9. Pop-rivet gun. It is a terrible invention devised by evil people. I bought the hardware store special for $15 and it took over 100 cranks of that stupid handle to seat the stainless steel rivets. Each rivet. You have been warned. Also, VERY IMPORTANT HERE... make sure you use heavy masking tape to protect your hood paint over the trim ring. When that rivet pops, the rivet tool may slip forward and scratch your hood paint if you are not careful. I used frog tape and it did catch the tool tip and prevent a scratch.
10. Take your time, measure 2-3 times, then make your cut.
GOOD LUCK!
1. I used a dremel with metal cut-off wheels to make the cut, running about 9000rpm. The secret is to make short cuts and keep the hood metal cool to prevent the paint from bubbling up due to the cutting friction. I would recommend against using cutting fluid. It just makes a huge mess. I did not use a hole saw. My dremel has a remote "pen grip" attatchment that made this cut very easy to do using the template from AEV. You can practice your cutting on the hood (the portion that will be removed) before you make the "real" cut. It helps to practice. Just take your time. For the curved sections, use relief cuts (approx 1/16" each) to make it much easier. Once the rough cut is in, clean it up. The inner portion of the hood was very awkward to do, as I had to lean backwards over the engine bay and work facing upwards. No big deal. Please wear eye protection and something to cover your face as sparks will fly. I used an old t-shirt, pulled up over my nose. It made for a great show. I also covered the exposed intake tube from the stock airbox with a tied-off plastic bag to prevent unwanted steel and paint dust from entering the intake.
2. Inserting the AEV snorkel into the stock airbox.
I was starting to cuss at this point because the snorkel would not seat into the old airbox. There is a small lip on the snorkel that will lock into the airbox. Use a long shaft flathead screwdriver and twist slightly at the junction to raise the opening rim of the stock airbox to accomodate the snorkel lip. Gentle, here. It will snap into place easily this way.
3. RTV is messy. Have shop towels handy. Make sure you seal the aformentioned rim junction to the stock airbox, as well as the drain holes. It is easy to forget.
4. Apply a small square of 3M double-sided tape between the metal snorkel brackets and your paint. It will help hold the brackets in place while installing the snorkel-airbox combo, and also protect your paint from scratches.
5. Lube the airbox mounting gaskets to aid in installation.. I used petroleum jelly, just a small dab.
6. DO NOT use power tools to tighten the brackets to the snorkel or your windshield screws. You need to be able to "feel" if you are stressing the connection. The same thing applies to the bracket screws into the snorkel.
7. Use 3M double-sided tape to hold the trim piece in place.
8. Drilling holes for trim ring. Position your trim ring like you want it and drill your 1/8" holes for the first and last rivets ONLY. Install those rivets first, THEN drill the remaining holes. Otherwise, the trim piece may "float" a little and the holes may not line up and you'll have to oversize the holes to compensate which will lead to #9....
8a. I used touch-up paint from Autozone (flame/poppy red) to paint the freshly drilled holes and the trimmed area (after some sanding).. while you are at it, walk around the Jeep and touch up some of those rock chips and nicks around all sides. My tailgate area needed several areas touched-up.
9. Pop-rivet gun. It is a terrible invention devised by evil people. I bought the hardware store special for $15 and it took over 100 cranks of that stupid handle to seat the stainless steel rivets. Each rivet. You have been warned. Also, VERY IMPORTANT HERE... make sure you use heavy masking tape to protect your hood paint over the trim ring. When that rivet pops, the rivet tool may slip forward and scratch your hood paint if you are not careful. I used frog tape and it did catch the tool tip and prevent a scratch.
10. Take your time, measure 2-3 times, then make your cut.
GOOD LUCK!