Under Project-JK.com there is a write up on how to service the Auto Transmission (I believe WayofLife wrote it up, not sure). In Step #20 it states to add 4 qts of ATF fluid. Someone named Regulus commented that a total of 9 qts of ATF fluid were needed. Also it sound like he was saying that the way the write up was done, not all of the ATF fluid would be drained this way. Can anyone clarify this?


Here's the write up: http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ission-service

 

When you remove the transmission pan only the oil in the pan is drained which is around 4-5 quarts depending on how long it sits before removing the pan. The torque converter fluid will not drain when removing the pan. The torque converter fluid is circulated via the transmission pump when the engine is running. So you are essentially changing less than half the total fluid. You would have to go through the change process 3 times after driving it a couple days between to eventually replace most of the fluid. Some will use a pump to draw the fluid out of the fill tube after initially changing the pan fluid. But unless the fluid is burnt or contaminated with water that is overkill. Keep in mind that most people never have their transmission fluid changed while they own a vehicle.

 

Would you or anyone else know when you take your vehicle to a car shop and they do the ATF service are they draining it completely or are they pretty much only getting the 4-5 qts out?

 

Shops that perform a "transmission flush" (about $100) is a process where they have a machine they hook up that pumps new fluid in as the old fluid comes out. A "transmission service" replaces the transmission fluid and filter change which is only replacing the fluid in the pan.

http://www.ehow.com/list_6088482_adv...ion-flush.html

 

Thanks for your help on this M69.

Now I know you didn't do the write up, but you seem to know a bit about servicing the AT. I looked in the owner's manual service schedule (60k mile service) and on page 456 it states:

"Change the automatic transmission fluid and main sump filter if using your vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet or frequent trailer towing."


So would this be only dropping the pan, switching the filter and putting in 4-5 qts of ATF? It wouldn't calling for a flush, would it?

 

Correct, that is all that is expected. Some people are concerned that the flush can break loose varnish in the transmission causing a passage to clog though regular shops are doing so I don't think it is a huge concern.

I just dropped the pan and changed the fluid/filter in mine at 24,000 miles. The back bolts of the pan took quite a bit of finesse to get them out and to start because the exhaust crossover is directly under them but I managed.

I wanted to change over to Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid and I had just added a B&M transmission cooler in January to combat the transmission overheating issues. The recent recall is for the new "HOT OIL" display when it gets too hot but doesn't do anything to remedy the issue. When wheeling in April a 4 door auto was trying to pull out a stuck Jeep and after numerous tugs in reverse his new "HOT OIL" light came on. So it doesn't take much especially when the temps were only in the 60's.

 

The bolts on the back of the tranny pan will come out without loosening the exhaust crossover. But getting them to start back in is a bear, even with a universal socket.
This is what I used to make it much easier:







A new pan is only about $10. You may want to get one, and install a drain plug in it to make the next service a lot less messy. If you install a temp sensor as shown in the picture, it can act as a drain plug on your next fluid drain.





I don't know if the write-up addresses the sealed bolt, but here is a reminder: