Convert 2010 Jeep JK manual shift lever to a threaded 1/2"-20 for B&M t-handle & more
#11
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
The female 9/16 will press fit on to the stock JK manual shifter lever. By press fit I mean with some light taps of a hammer. It won't STAY on there unfortunately because the shift lever is not cylindrical its like a semi-circle. That's where the JB weld in the FEMALE end of the adapter works like a charm to hold that adapter SOLID to the shift lever.
Once you get that in place you have a 1/2-20 threaded tip JB-Welded onto your stock shift lever!
#12
JK Freak
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallassee, Alabama
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Yeah, I have an automatic... but I got it done with a 1/2" pipe about 5" long, with a brass flare adapter.. 1/2" to 3/8" and my Hurst knob screwed right on...
#13
Great Solution! - Here's a link for anyone wanting stainless vs brass
For under $10 and in less than 10 minutes you can convert your 2010 Jeep Wrangler JK manual shift lever from the stock butt end to a threaded 1/2"-20 end that will accept almost ANY after market shift knob of that thread size including the coveted Hurst or B&M T-handle shift knob.
Below are photos and instructions of the conversion. I am sharing it here as a "thank you" for the ideas and discussions in this forum that served as inspiration for my creativity.
Let's begin!
Here's what you'll need:
First thing to do is remove the stock knob by pulling it and twisting it back and forth - pliers may help. You will end up with the stock STUB, blunt end notched shaft as pictured below:
Attachment 373748
Here is a picture of the ADAPTER which we will JB WELD on the blunt end to create a threaded end
Attachment 373749
Here is a photo of my shift knob selection. I have used the provided spacer nut on my new brass threaded end ADAPTER
Attachment 373750
At this point you want to mix the JBWELD and fill the female 5/8" threaded hole of the ADAPTER
In this photo I am using the spacer nut as a striking surface by unscrewing it up high enough that I'm striking the nut with the hammer and not damaging the 1/2-20 thread on my ADAPTER. The 5/8" threaded female end is full of JBWELD and is being hammered on to the blunt end of the stock manual shift lever
Attachment 373751
IMPORTANT TIP!!! BEFORE you hammer on the ADAPTER full of JB WELD, screw the ADAPTER on to your chosen shift knob TIGHT. Then press fit the ADAPTER onto the shift lever. You want to align the shift knob how you want it. Then note or mark the location of the ADAPTER because you will want to JB WELD it into the same exact position. This is important because if you just weld the ADAPTER on in any position the knob you choose may be out of position when you screw it all the way on to the ADAPTER. So mark where you want it and then hammer the JB WELD-filled ADAPTER on in exactly the same orientation. Worst case scenario you can use a spacer nut on the ADAPTER to get the correct alignment for your new shift knob, but with limited tread space taking this extra step to think ahead saves a LOT of headaches!
CONTINUED IN REPLY DUE TO PHOTO LIMITATIONS...
Below are photos and instructions of the conversion. I am sharing it here as a "thank you" for the ideas and discussions in this forum that served as inspiration for my creativity.
Let's begin!
Here's what you'll need:
- Aftermarket shift knob of your choice with a 1/2"-20 thread
- Dual Master Cylinder Adapter 5/8-18 Inverted Female - 1/2-20 Inverted Male or EQUIVALENT
- JB WELD
- A Hammer
- Paper Towels
- Popsicle stick or something to mix and apply the JB Weld
First thing to do is remove the stock knob by pulling it and twisting it back and forth - pliers may help. You will end up with the stock STUB, blunt end notched shaft as pictured below:
Attachment 373748
Here is a picture of the ADAPTER which we will JB WELD on the blunt end to create a threaded end
Attachment 373749
Here is a photo of my shift knob selection. I have used the provided spacer nut on my new brass threaded end ADAPTER
Attachment 373750
At this point you want to mix the JBWELD and fill the female 5/8" threaded hole of the ADAPTER
In this photo I am using the spacer nut as a striking surface by unscrewing it up high enough that I'm striking the nut with the hammer and not damaging the 1/2-20 thread on my ADAPTER. The 5/8" threaded female end is full of JBWELD and is being hammered on to the blunt end of the stock manual shift lever
Attachment 373751
IMPORTANT TIP!!! BEFORE you hammer on the ADAPTER full of JB WELD, screw the ADAPTER on to your chosen shift knob TIGHT. Then press fit the ADAPTER onto the shift lever. You want to align the shift knob how you want it. Then note or mark the location of the ADAPTER because you will want to JB WELD it into the same exact position. This is important because if you just weld the ADAPTER on in any position the knob you choose may be out of position when you screw it all the way on to the ADAPTER. So mark where you want it and then hammer the JB WELD-filled ADAPTER on in exactly the same orientation. Worst case scenario you can use a spacer nut on the ADAPTER to get the correct alignment for your new shift knob, but with limited tread space taking this extra step to think ahead saves a LOT of headaches!
CONTINUED IN REPLY DUE TO PHOTO LIMITATIONS...
BTW: using the Hurst inserts I am able to manipulate the T-handle to any angle (with only a slight bit of maddening, tightening and loosening trial and error).
Here's a link for anyone wanting to go stainless though:
Earls 00121ERL Stainless Steel Earls Hardline Expander 1/2"-20 Inverted Flare Male to 5/8-18 Inverted Flare Female for 3/8" Tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFRK6RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dmeHCbDRCM4H9