Cutting new programmable key
Ever decided WTF cause you are frustrated with everyone else's unwillingness to just take a chance.
Just recieved two programmable key blanks via ebay $7.79 per key ($50 at stealership for key and $60 for programming) A total of $25.00 invested shipped.
I hit 5 hardware stored trying to get them cut. "We don't cut keys with chips - too expensive if we mess up" Understandable if I was an ***hole and not willing to risk my 8 dollar key. Apparently, those guys are out there.
Any way, this led to the every dangerous, "I can do this" so here goes ----- WARNING: THIS WORKED FOR ONE KEY - OPERATOR ERROR SCREWED UP THE OTHER.
CONCEPT: All a key cutter does is grind away portions of the key that should not be there and retains the portion that should be there.
REVELATION: I have a rotozip with a remote handle and a metal cutting bit.
I also have a vise, a decent eye, a reasonably steady hand, and two key blanks.
Attachment 110290
Patience is come and go - hence the screwed up second key.
Line up the master key and new key in the vise making sure that the points line up. DO NOT line up the plastic heads of the key. If you do the cuts may not line up with the tumblers in the locks.
Attachment 110291
To cut the key place the smooth part of the bit against the old key and the cutting head against the new key.
Attachment 110292
DO NOT touch the master key with the cutting head - The result could be a trashed master key
REMEMBER TO KEEP EVERYTHING SQUARE and take your time.
Finally eye ball to make sure that they are cut the same and remember it is easier to trim more off but you can't put it back on once it's cut. Make sure rough edges and burrs are cleaned up or the key could get hung up in the ignition/lock.
Attachment 110293
Try to use the key - if it doesn't work, repeat and look for errors. I had to clean up one ridge on my first key. If the key turns, the engine will start for a few seconds and stall. This means the cut is good and you need to program the key as per the owners manual.
Now - Pizza and
Just recieved two programmable key blanks via ebay $7.79 per key ($50 at stealership for key and $60 for programming) A total of $25.00 invested shipped.
I hit 5 hardware stored trying to get them cut. "We don't cut keys with chips - too expensive if we mess up" Understandable if I was an ***hole and not willing to risk my 8 dollar key. Apparently, those guys are out there.
Any way, this led to the every dangerous, "I can do this" so here goes ----- WARNING: THIS WORKED FOR ONE KEY - OPERATOR ERROR SCREWED UP THE OTHER.
CONCEPT: All a key cutter does is grind away portions of the key that should not be there and retains the portion that should be there.
REVELATION: I have a rotozip with a remote handle and a metal cutting bit.

I also have a vise, a decent eye, a reasonably steady hand, and two key blanks.
Attachment 110290
Patience is come and go - hence the screwed up second key.

Line up the master key and new key in the vise making sure that the points line up. DO NOT line up the plastic heads of the key. If you do the cuts may not line up with the tumblers in the locks.
Attachment 110291
To cut the key place the smooth part of the bit against the old key and the cutting head against the new key.
Attachment 110292
DO NOT touch the master key with the cutting head - The result could be a trashed master key

REMEMBER TO KEEP EVERYTHING SQUARE and take your time.
Finally eye ball to make sure that they are cut the same and remember it is easier to trim more off but you can't put it back on once it's cut. Make sure rough edges and burrs are cleaned up or the key could get hung up in the ignition/lock.
Attachment 110293
Try to use the key - if it doesn't work, repeat and look for errors. I had to clean up one ridge on my first key. If the key turns, the engine will start for a few seconds and stall. This means the cut is good and you need to program the key as per the owners manual.
Now - Pizza and
Thanks for the write-up, but it seems like a lot of work. I've never had troubles getting eBay chipped keys cut for both of my F150s and my Jeep. Just ask the person working the machine. Most folks won't even think twice!
Cut it, program it, move on...
Cut it, program it, move on...
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err... go to a locksmith.
I got one key w/ a remote and one key w/ a passive transponder cut for a buck apiece.
Home Depot and similar big box hardware stores probably spend about 20 minutes of training time on the "key machine," but a pro who knows what he or she is doing will get it done before you can bat an eye.
Cool writeup, but totally unnecessary, IMO...
EDIT: forgot to mention, as long as you have two working keys, programming either the passive transponder or the remote is a no-brainer. Google for the sequence, but it's basically just put one key in, put the other key in, then put the third one that you want to program and turn the ignition on for a few seconds. Done deal.
I got one key w/ a remote and one key w/ a passive transponder cut for a buck apiece.
Home Depot and similar big box hardware stores probably spend about 20 minutes of training time on the "key machine," but a pro who knows what he or she is doing will get it done before you can bat an eye.
Cool writeup, but totally unnecessary, IMO...
EDIT: forgot to mention, as long as you have two working keys, programming either the passive transponder or the remote is a no-brainer. Google for the sequence, but it's basically just put one key in, put the other key in, then put the third one that you want to program and turn the ignition on for a few seconds. Done deal.



