EVAP relocation - my version
 

Well, I spent MANY hours doing this and a few other mods last night. The short version is:

Others have done the EVAP relocation. I wound up doing it SLIGHTLY differently and wanted to share:

- I installed mine ALL the way to the right rear of the space, pushed up against the spring area and the black cross member. By doing this, I didn't have to modify the mounting bracket AT ALL (except for drilling a few extra holes of course).

I wound up using a large bolt in the original hole of the bracket, drilled another hole a few inches away and also put that one through the floor. Then on the other side in the interest of clearance, I ran two sheet metal screws into the lower portion of the tub. The tub here has about an inche of space between what you see from underneat and what's above. In other words, the sheet metal screws do not protrude into the cabin. The bracket seems very solid.

- NO ONE locally had 5/8" fuel line. I'll check the marine shops when they open. So for now, I used heater hose. I had to buy 10' for $17 which ticked me off cause Home Depot didn't have is by the foot. But given that my total expenditure was about $24, I dealt with it.

- I didn't have to mess with the brake lines at all. The new EVAP vapor lines are well away from exhaust and the EVAP itself seems so well protected there. My only thought is that it's lower than those who mounted it flush to the floor by a few inches. The rear axle can't get to that during full articulation, right? I mean, on the other side, the gas tank in there.

And the longer version in pics:

https://i300.photobucket.com/albums/...4_001445AA.jpg

https://i300.photobucket.com/albums/...4_001500AA.jpg

https://i300.photobucket.com/albums/...4_021618AA.jpg

https://i300.photobucket.com/albums/...4_021642AA.jpg

https://i300.photobucket.com/albums/...4_021703AA.jpg

Hey Adam good job, I got my 5/8 fuel line form Napa, the location I was at didnt have any but they got me 2ft the next morning from another one of their locations :thumbsup:

One comment I will make for everyone who does this move on their own, make sure you mount the evap so that the electric plug is in the 3 oclock position from the ground(basically it has to be facing the rear of the jeep), if not the valves in the ECIM(white plastic on the evap) will not operate properly and you'll have problems filling the tank and the evap wont function like it is supposed to.

maybe it's me, but I don't get what you mean.

the EVAP used to be mounted front to rear. now itLs side to side. mine is still horizontal since I didn't bend my mounting plste. is that what u mean? I don't see how the WIRES can effect the Evap. ??

sorry if you are laying on the ground looking at the evap where the hoses connect and the wire connects, the wire connector must be in the 3oclock position....yours looks right, the only way I think you can mount it wrong is if you mount it on its side or angle somewhere...I was just saying it so others know if they do it on their own that it does matter how it gets mounted. Its not the wires that affect it, its the position of it, there are two valves in the ECIM they will NOT work correctly if not mounted in correct position that comes directly from the Service manual. If where the wires connect is pointing up then the valves inside will not open and close like they should.

this is from the service manual.
The ESIM assembly consists of a housing, a small weight, and a large weight that serve as check valves, a diaphragm, a switch and a cover. There is one large weight and one small weight check valve in the ESIM assembly. A seal is attached at the end of each assembly. The large weight check valve seals for pressure. The small weight check valve seals for vacuum. The weighted check valves are contained with the ESIM housing.

So the weights wont work if they are mounted wrong causing the valves not to work properly.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! That makes perfect sense. It has top and a bottom. Why didn't you say so? ;)

Here's one for you: i cannot get that locking tab to bend back down. I don't think the EVAP will slide off the bracket, but who knows when I'm rock crawling. And since I didn't flatten the bracket, I can get above it, but my fingers aren't strong enough to just push it down. It's not exactly light duty metal.

Nice work!
 

I just replaced my evap can and associated 'white thing' after I tore it off in some ice. I had the same problem with that tab, so i took the can back off (still attached to the bracket) and used a hammer and a screw driver as a chisel to pound the tab down.

Thanks for this write-up, man! Saved me from spendin' cash on one of those relocation kits. :thumbsup: I'll be doin' this tomorrow.

How's the clearance while off roading? Does the axle come into contact with the EVAP at full flex? Anyeone know?