Here's a few pics. It's actually called a Box Rail. I got it at Tractor Supply Company

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...g=true&cFlag=1

I put two rails in because I didn't know the weight at the time (95 lbs). One would channel would probably work, but as an engineer, I like safety factors.

The #10 screws are spaced at 12 inches. You can drill through the channel with a normal hand drill & metal bit. To make it easier, drill a small pilot hole first, then a larger hole for the screw. Please make sure you put a washer on the screw.

I plan on installing a small beam between the two rollers, and attach an electric hoist. Then I will build the lift frame described by others. The chain fall & cable puller pictured was not particularly effective, especially the puller.

I also built a wood shelf to set the top onto. I didn't like the idea of an indefinitely suspended load.

As for dimensions, my garage is 20 feet deep. The shelf is 4'x8' & is 43 inches from the ceiling. I would recommend another 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling if you can manage, as it's a tight fit to get the roof to the shelf, but I had an existing storage cabinet I wanted under the shelf.

The spacing on the shelf support columns (2x3's) is wide enough so the nose of my Tacoma can get under the shelf (I have to do this to close the garage door). The JK4DR can fit without getting under the shelf & still close the garage door.

UPDATE-------
I was in the local Lowes yesterday. They have the same channel & rail system a few bucks cheaper. They did not carry this in the Lowes closer to my house, so you may get it there depending on the size of the store.

UPDATE 5-17-08-----------

Had a guy or two ask for picks of the final. Will get them up today.

do a google search for XP PowerToy photo resize. Works great!

Thanks YellowToy! Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks also for the TSC link - there is a TSC here in Rochester, MN, so I'll be stopping in there tomorrow to see if they have the channel. I like the idea of two parallel channels - use original T-bar with center eye bolt for hoist, and additional eye bolts on top of T to hook to these roller channels. Then just push everything back onto wall-mounted shelf. If I can get all the parts by this week, I'll be building this weekend and will post pics/results as it goes. Thanks again!:yup:

I guess it does work great! Thanks for the tip.

The attached photos show:
("Front hook") ...How the hooks cut down from U-bolts that Howie developed for his T-bar hoist nestle perfectly into the wide lip molded into the front edge of the 2-door Freedom Top. Once the hooks are tightened into position at the correct angle, it is virtually impossible for the top to slip to the left or right.
("Winch on stairs") ...The brake winch mounted to the stair stringer in my garage. The point here is that the relatively light load of the Freedom Top allows the winch to be through-bolted to a vertical surface by drilling holes in the side of the winch housing opposite the crank.
("Both hoists") ...The low-tech soft-top hoist I built in position in front of the hardtop hoist. All it is, is a board with an adjustable luggage strap at each end connected via pulleys with a line that can be pulled by hand. In time I will add either a lightweight brake winch or clamp-and-release pulleys (think venetian blinds here) to this device, so that it will hold the top at the correct height while the bows are being secured to the sport bar.

One additional tip for those who plan to build T-bar lifts from channel strut: Make sure to cut the horizonal piece to a length that features an odd number of holes. This will ensure that the gusset plate that connects the T will be balanced on a center hole. I didn't think of this when I took the guys at the Fastenal store up on their offer to cut it for me on their horizontal band saw, and I had to compensate for it later by adding a link and washers to the shorter end. (Yes, it is that sensitive to balance.)

Wow! this thing is awsome.:yup:

All in One Hoist/Storage
 

Reading this thread gave me an idea on how I can remove my top on my own. I thought about hoisting the top from the ceiling but my garage is full of crap. So on to my idea. Instead of describing it, i'll let these images explain.

http://www.butchucoy.com/tophoiststorage/image3.png

http://www.butchucoy.com/tophoiststorage/image1.png

http://www.butchucoy.com/tophoiststorage/image2.png

This has not been built yet. I still need to think it over and learn how to weld. Any tips or improvements are welcome before I start the build.

I got the yj model from google 3d warehouse (creator Brian Carver ). Thanks Brian, hope you don't mind me posting your yj model here.

Butchucoyz:

Congratultions on a very clever design. From my experience with the ceiling-mounted hoist, my caution would be to make sure you have sufficient weight in the base (but I'm sure you're all over that issue). Once the top is free from the Jeep it can spin and/or swing, and the casters combined with the fact you'll be working alone might amplify that situation.

Before I invested in welding gear and an education, I'd visit a store that sells channel strut and fittings and see what's available to you. If you bolted it together instead of welding it, you'd also be able to disassemble it for winter storage. I got my hardware at a local Fastenal franchise.

Butchucoyz:

One other comment on your design: unless you remove the rear window before you lift the top, the need to keep it up, in the open position, is going to require a longer horizontal arm, which in turn will shift the weight forward and require even more compensating weight in the base. This isn't an issue with ceiling-mounted designs because there's no vertical post.

FIRST... I think Butchucoyz should pull the pictures ASAP & have the idea patented, & I'm not kidding. I know if I were in the business, I would already be working on mock-ups to show to Quadratec, 4wd, etc.

I had though about a shop crane (engine hoist) from Harbor Freight, but none were tall enough to pick the top.

NEXT... I use the "Standard" unistrut T-Frame, but with ratchet straps that pull around the frame instead of the u-bolt hooks (saw the idea on somebody's post). That way I can close the back window. This would keep the arm to a minimum.

LAST... You don't have to worry about "Sufficient Weight in the Base." You're not relying on a counterweight mechanism. The base just has to be wide enough so the CG is never outside of the wheels. Now, rotating is always an issue with wire rope. But, you can easily add a tag line from the back of the T to the post.

Looks like another needed weekend project for me!! Thanks!