Rednroll

Only one way to test that to be certain. I silicone sealed the electronics as posted in my write-up. There is the possibility that water could get into the DC motor section through the air intake side of the compressor, rust and then seize up and destroy itself. However, the starters on our JKs are also a DC motor. So what's preventing the starter DC motor from the same fate in water crossing and corrosion situations? Are our starter motors sealed? The way I'm currently looking at it, is that these compressors have been mounted in those locations since this past December. I live in Michigan. So they have already been exposed to ice, snow, slush, water, and road salt. Not to mention that I go through a car wash at least once a week where they have been sprayed during the under carriage car wash cleaning cycle. So that's now 7 months of exposure to those types of elements and the compressors are still working great.

We can all speculate on theories of what may happen and I have those same theories and concerns as well, thus the reason I went with an inexpensive air compressor solution as outlined in my write-up. A more expensive air compressor isn't anymore protected against those situations as the $50 HF compressors. There's only one way to find out for certain, and that's to put those theories to the test and that's what I've been doing. The worst case scenario is that it cost me $100 to find out.

The setup you built is very cool. Who knows, if this doesn't work out then I may even go that route. However, I would likely hang the hoses under the JK for added convenience. Let's try to be real, no onboard air system is bullet proof or perfect. So while you stated you can fill up all 4 tires in under 3 minutes, how about we include the time it takes to pull out that spagetti nest of hoses, opening the hood and connecting it all up and putting it away? Time is time, we can't just focus on fill up time and ignore the rest. We're not in a race but by the time you get eveything connected, and routed around I'm already filling tires. Also don't forget to mention you'll need to be careful not to let any of those hoses drape onto any hot engine or exhaust header surfaces since that can easily damage the hoses. Let's also keep in mind, that the engine bay where you mounted your compressor is not immune to water. If anything the engine bay may be the worst environment to put any kind of aftermarket electronics, since it's not only gets exposed to water but you also add high temp heat to the mix as well. The only thing you really avoided with that mounting location over mine, is you raised your submersion water level of the compressor while adding heat and other inconveniences I decided I would like to avoid.

So stay tuned. I'll be making a trip to Silver Lake sand dunes, hopefully within the next couple of months. They'll get exposed to plenty of sand and water on that trip. So that should be another very good test. That's the primary reason I got the additional $45 backup that stays under the rear seat.

Rednroll

In regards to electronics, an air compressor is nothing more than a DC motor. You submerge it, the water runs out afterwards and the DC motor will still work. It's magnetic fields inside of the motor that causes it to spin which isn't impeded by water. The real problem to be concerned about is that inside of a motor are magnets and lacquer coated wire winding. The metal parts inside the motor can start to form rust after being submerged or dirt can get lodged in between the spinning parts causing them to wear. So if anything, there is more of a concern of failure some time after a water submersion. I could always take the compressors off, take them apart and clean up the insides after a submersion, but I'm not really that concerned. If that ends up being the case, then I may consider making the DC motors sealed. The only opening to the motor is the air intake where the air filter screws onto the compressor. I suppose I could always make a plug to seal that opening, and then unscrew the plug and attach the air filters, but that takes away from some of the convenience factor I'm after.

Rednroll

Ok, so I couldn't leave well enough alone. I decided to make another convenience improvement to the system.

The HF compressors come with the screw on tire chucks. I decided for added convenience to cut these off and attach some quick connect/disconnect tire chucks.

Picked up 2 of these 1/4in barb adapters from HF for $1.99 a piece.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ing-68212.html


I went on Amazon and picked up 2 of these tire air chucks, $10 for the pair. The important part about getting these tire chucks is to make sure you get "Open flow" tire chucks for use on portable air compressors. If you get a "Closed Flow" chuck, then air will not flow out freely from the compressor when the chuck is not attached to the valve stem and cause a lot of back pressure on the compressor and cause the compressor to over heat and likely blow the fuse. Ask me how I know?
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-S...cm_wl_huc_item





Mod steps:
1. Unscrew the plastic hose clamp off the HF compressor's hose.
2. Cut the black air hose to get rid of the existing screw on chuck.
3. Insert 1/4" barb hose adapters into opening of hose.
4. Screw plastic hose clamp back on to secure the barb hose adapter in place.
5. Use some plumbers tape and wrap around 1/4" barb adapter threads to prevent fitting air leaks.
6. Attach quick connect tire air chucks onto threads of barb adapter.

Complete!!! Works great, attaching the air chuck to the valve stems is much quicker and easier. I can now quickly take the tire air chuck on and off the tire valve stems to check the pressure as I'm filling . Gauges that measure the pressure while filling don't seem to be very accurate. That seems to be the case with the more expensive Viair compressors and isn't specific to the HF compressors. Well worth the $14 I spent to mod both mounted compressors.

karls10jk

Those air chucks could be a serious game changer for you. Jchappies (member here) and TrailRecon (YouTube channel) showed the difference that it makes when you use a clip on chuck at the end of the line. Jchappies can fill 4 37's from trail to street in under 5 mins with a standard flow compressor. That's faster than my industrial compressor in my garage.

He used the HalTec chucks (closed flow obviously) so I wonder if there will be a flow difference between those and what you've got.

If the chucks you bought do indeed allow the air to flow to the tire better then you'd be reducing the load on your compressor....thus extending the life.

TrailRecon video vvv
https://youtu.be/bYqeXxEItDI

Rednroll

What!!?? You mean I was just trying to make things easier on myself and I possibly increased performance and compressor longevity?

That would be awesome!

Gonna have to do some more 15psi to 35psi time trials to see how they compare to before this mod.

jchappies

The air chucks that your using now will leak after a while, it only clamps on one side of the valve stem. You have to get it on almost perfect for it not to leak and then not move while your trying to fill up.
Closed air chucks work great on systems that have pressure relief valves or are on a tank and pressure switch. For other compressor that don't have that you will want the open air chucks.
What air attachment are you using to fill your tires?
I make my own but typically store bought one are very restrictive. I usually have to modify them for people so they flow more air.

Rednroll

1/4" Coiled air hose and the new tire chuck.

This system is more about convenience and not spending an arm and a leg to get there. Speed is secondary and is just an added bonus that I'm able to fill all 4 tires from 15 to 35 psi in under 10 minutes currently which is plenty fast enough for me. I went with a Quantity of air flow over quality of air flow approach by being able to use 2 compressors simultaneous. I may not be the fastest in filling up the air in a tire, but I'm pretty certain I can have my air hoses attached to the tires and have it all put away faster than most anyone out there and that was more of what I was trying to accomplish with this system.

The chucks have 4.5 stars out of 378 reviews on Amazon. So they can't be all that bad. I even checked the negative 1 star reviews where the majority of them were user error of ordering an Open flow valve and then complaining that it leaked air when not attached to the valve stem.....As of now, they're sealing nice on the valve stem as of this past week when I tested them out inflating/deflating my tires 5 times and if they don't last the test of time, at $5 each for a replacement isn't going to kill me. And if by chance all hell breaks loose, and the compressors and chucks decide to spontaneously combust on both air compressors at the same time, then there's a 3rd backup air compressor sitting under my rear seat ready to go.

My deflator choice, using the Staun type of deflators is the same thought of convenience over performance. I go to a state park sand dune. You have to wait in line to get in. So while I'm waiting in line my deflators are on and deflating my tires, and by the time I get in I'm ready to go while others are then just pulling off to the side and unwrapping their deflator air hoses and bragging about how they're able to deflate all 4 tires in less than 60 seconds while I drive past them and wave.

It's all been working out great for my uses. Time is time. Where and how you chose to save some of it is all part of the equation. It's not only about who can put the air in and out of their tires the fastest while ignoring the rest.

Rednroll

Just checked out your video again and description details. It seems like you used these clamp chucks linked below to avoid the side clamp.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ebbdda40e3fcfa

I could use those as well if the ones I got don't work out. Are they an Open flow chuck?

Edit: someone else asked that same question on Amazon and here was one of the responses.

"It is a closed type chuck. It will not open until it is slid onto the stem."

I would need an Open flow version of that chuck.

Which leads me to believe that is something in your setup I would like to avoid. Since you're using a closed flow chuck, you will need to attach those chucks to the tire valve stems before turning on your portable air compressor. Doing that is typically not the best practice for a portable air compressor. The reason being is that when a compressor is first turned on, there is an in rush of current to get that DC motor up and running. Putting the additional pressure from the tires before starting the compressor, loads that motor even more during startup. So you get an additional unwanted in rush of current during start up of the compressor which can lead to blowing the fuse on the compressor or over loading it, and risking electrical over stress to the motor and therefore causing damage to the compressor. Have you taken that into consideration with your setup? Have you been blowing fuses?

jchappies

there is no load on the compressor at startup. First if the hose is empty it takes a few seconds to build pressure. ARB compressor are setup as a closed system with a small expansion tank and pressure switch which shuts the compressor off at 100psi(happens real quick with a small expansion tank). The smittybilt compressor is like yours but i added a tank and pressure switch so it also shuts off at 100psi. But with that being said every compressor that utilizes a tank or pressure switch in a vehicle or garage is subject to starting and stopping with built up pressure and load on the motor as long as your in your manufacture specs i see it as a non issue. I have never blown a fuse.
The way that you're using your setup you do need an open chuck because your relief valve is at the end of the hose and the compressor doesn't have a tank or pressure switch.
Now you could use a 4 port manifold and add the 2 compressors together and\or pressure switch or relief valve then your hose attachment and turn it into a closed system
https://www.amazon.com/Interstate-Pn...+port+manifold


Your seems to be working for you as is...just throwing out ideas
Mine is just a DIY version of the more expensive ones already out on the market with better parts and the satisfaction you built it cheaper and better than buying it.
Mine inflates and deflates so its 2 systems in one. With a closed system you can do 1 tire or 3 tires or 4 tires it just works.

Rednroll

Thanks for the explanation. I definitely was missing that closed system aspect as well as expansion tank portions. Makes a lot of sense now.