Making a Custom Hidden Toolbox - Pics!
I decided that the tool box that I had was too bulky to keep in my JK. I couldn't find any of them that had what I wanted that would fit in the small hidden compartment, so I decided to make one by vacuum bagging fiberglass. THis way, I would have a nice tool tray and be able to hand pick the tools within. Here's how I am doing it:
Step one
Find a nice, flat surface, In this case, I used a piece of marble. I cut a black piece ot tool-box liner to the dimensions of my compartment.

Next, I overlaid heavy-duty seran wrap on top and taped it off.

I then laid out my tools how I wanted them. THis will be the final resting place. I chose all the tools that I would need for small and mediocre tasks for mmy JK. A full selection of 1/4 and 3/8" sockets, to include star bits and hex bits. I picked the rachets Ilike the best.

After I was satisfied with the layout, I covered the layout with the seran wrap and again taped it off. THey make other materials for this, but I wanted something thin and flexable that would get into the crevices and provide support.

I then covered this whole thing with a special peel-ply layer for easy removal of the fiberglass. The extra ply will make the bux slightly larger than the parts, but this is good. I intend to spray it with a cound deadening material.

I mixed up a batch of epoxy... make sure you wear gloves and don't deviate from the proper mix AT ALL! If you do, you will wind up with a gooey mess. Soak very thin fiberglass in this Epoxy, wring out the excess and lay it on top of the peel ply. Don't do large strips of fiberglass - do many small patches. They will bond together and when vacuum is applied, will allow the patches to settle into the crevices.

Now, I attached the fitting and vacuum line to the top vacuum layer. I clamped the edges with wood to keep pressure on the special tape used for the vacuum bagging. After turning on the pump, I let it run and then release the vacuum. I move the fiberglass with my fingers and apply the vacuum again. I repeat this until I get the shape I want. You can see how the fiberglass and other layers mold around the tools. I also have a hairdryer rinning across the top. Epoxy does not cure faster by adding more catalyst, like polyester. If you want it to cure faster, induce heat. THis will make the process much faster. In fact, I've cut 15 hour cure times down to 15 minutes with other applications.
Step one
Find a nice, flat surface, In this case, I used a piece of marble. I cut a black piece ot tool-box liner to the dimensions of my compartment.

Next, I overlaid heavy-duty seran wrap on top and taped it off.

I then laid out my tools how I wanted them. THis will be the final resting place. I chose all the tools that I would need for small and mediocre tasks for mmy JK. A full selection of 1/4 and 3/8" sockets, to include star bits and hex bits. I picked the rachets Ilike the best.

After I was satisfied with the layout, I covered the layout with the seran wrap and again taped it off. THey make other materials for this, but I wanted something thin and flexable that would get into the crevices and provide support.

I then covered this whole thing with a special peel-ply layer for easy removal of the fiberglass. The extra ply will make the bux slightly larger than the parts, but this is good. I intend to spray it with a cound deadening material.

I mixed up a batch of epoxy... make sure you wear gloves and don't deviate from the proper mix AT ALL! If you do, you will wind up with a gooey mess. Soak very thin fiberglass in this Epoxy, wring out the excess and lay it on top of the peel ply. Don't do large strips of fiberglass - do many small patches. They will bond together and when vacuum is applied, will allow the patches to settle into the crevices.

Now, I attached the fitting and vacuum line to the top vacuum layer. I clamped the edges with wood to keep pressure on the special tape used for the vacuum bagging. After turning on the pump, I let it run and then release the vacuum. I move the fiberglass with my fingers and apply the vacuum again. I repeat this until I get the shape I want. You can see how the fiberglass and other layers mold around the tools. I also have a hairdryer rinning across the top. Epoxy does not cure faster by adding more catalyst, like polyester. If you want it to cure faster, induce heat. THis will make the process much faster. In fact, I've cut 15 hour cure times down to 15 minutes with other applications.
I let the epoxy cure for about two hours. Usually, I would have done longer, but it won't affect anything. Here it is after I took the vacuum bagging plastic off and flipped it over. Keep in mind there is still the layer of seran wrap (red) and peel ply on top of the fiberglass. nce this cured for another several hours, I will remove it. Probably tomorrow morning.

Here, I removed the 3/8" wrench so you can see how well it took the form. The sockets are all secure in their position.

After it cures, I will embed the bottom crevaces in a combination of Epoxy and cabosil (tiny bots of silacate to add body to the epoxy). I will mold this to the compartment in the JK. After that hardens, I will make the top lid of this toolbox. with the same vacuum bagging process as shown above. When all completed, I will paint the whole thing white to match the JK.
I trimmed it - at this point, the epoxy is still soft, but that's not a problem. It's a lot easier to trim to size when it's soft - otherwise, you have to grind it.
Here is my trunk lid down so you can see - why yes, that IS another 42" XMitter in the back (
- we'll have to see where that goes!)

And here it is with the cover lifted. It takes up a milimum of space - about 1.25" thick.
Here is my trunk lid down so you can see - why yes, that IS another 42" XMitter in the back (
- we'll have to see where that goes!)
And here it is with the cover lifted. It takes up a milimum of space - about 1.25" thick.
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Attach what? Keep the rain out of where? The tool tray goes inside the rear trunk of the JK and under the floor. It just sits there. THere is no attaching it and since it is inside the vehicle, the rain does not get in.


