Moved AUX port to rear of Radio HU
#11
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Let us know if you do the garage door/bluetooth button. I'd be interested in doing that (and the aux at the same time).
As a total aside, Grant211, my wife ordered my Rugged Ridge tail light guards early December as a x-mas gift from Quadratec. I just got them in and installed yesterday. So if these are the ones you ordered, you are a mere days away from having yours.
As a total aside, Grant211, my wife ordered my Rugged Ridge tail light guards early December as a x-mas gift from Quadratec. I just got them in and installed yesterday. So if these are the ones you ordered, you are a mere days away from having yours.
#12
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I'm gonna connect my garage door opener to the two bluetooth buttons (since I don't really want it working in jeep - too much wind noise anyways). This will allow me to push the button and open the garage door. (not to mention hide the remote out of view)
I plugged in a spare cable and did a point to point with a multimeter. I think I can pull up a diagram... and see if I can post it.
I plugged in a spare cable and did a point to point with a multimeter. I think I can pull up a diagram... and see if I can post it.
#13
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#14
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I don't plan to do the garage door opener connection real soon. Again, as someone mentioned earlier, my radio is already in there, and working... and this weekend is already busy. I'll probably get to it in a week or so though. However, to show you what I'm going to do...
Here is where you would tap into the two U-Connect buttons on the board. Note the buttons are reverse of how they look on the radio... you are looking at the back side of the board.
This is what the front of the board looks like (for educational purposes only....) so that you see why not to connect to the LED. Also so that you know how the buttons are connected to the board. The buttons on a garage door opener are similar (even more simple and easier to see). On the opener's board, simply choose two connectors and tap to them. Don't have to worry about polarity, its a switch, just making a connection.
When this is connected, you will still get the "U-Connect not available" error message. This 'hack' is not altering the radio's components. It is simply using a switch to do two things at once.
Here is where you would tap into the two U-Connect buttons on the board. Note the buttons are reverse of how they look on the radio... you are looking at the back side of the board.
This is what the front of the board looks like (for educational purposes only....) so that you see why not to connect to the LED. Also so that you know how the buttons are connected to the board. The buttons on a garage door opener are similar (even more simple and easier to see). On the opener's board, simply choose two connectors and tap to them. Don't have to worry about polarity, its a switch, just making a connection.
When this is connected, you will still get the "U-Connect not available" error message. This 'hack' is not altering the radio's components. It is simply using a switch to do two things at once.
#15
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This is the best I can do for a diagram. I'll only show the connection on the face of the radio, because the plug you install on the back will have a diagram on the package. If you look at step 6 and step 8, you can see (by use of the red trim wire) which one lines up with which solder joint for the plug I used (from Radio Shack). Anyways, here's the pic of the layouts per the plug.
#16
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If you have something plugged into the back (as is the purpose of this) and it is OFF, there should not be an issue with using the front AUX jack.
As for if you are inputting both sources (both ON) one of two things could happen. You'll definitely get distorted sound, as the sounds will mesh together. Hopefully that is all. Worse case scenario... you'll be putting in twice as much voltage (although still very low) than the system is expecting to handle. This could cause damage to the circuitry.
I don't know for sure which would be the case. As I mentioned in the beginning, the original AUX jack had something broken inside, so I removed it from my radio. Therefore, I can't run that experiment.
#17
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Pretty much yup. That is, if both are on.
If you have something plugged into the back (as is the purpose of this) and it is OFF, there should not be an issue with using the front AUX jack.
As for if you are inputting both sources (both ON) one of two things could happen. You'll definitely get distorted sound, as the sounds will mesh together. Hopefully that is all. Worse case scenario... you'll be putting in twice as much voltage (although still very low) than the system is expecting to handle. This could cause damage to the circuitry.
I don't know for sure which would be the case. As I mentioned in the beginning, the original AUX jack had something broken inside, so I removed it from my radio. Therefore, I can't run that experiment.
If you have something plugged into the back (as is the purpose of this) and it is OFF, there should not be an issue with using the front AUX jack.
As for if you are inputting both sources (both ON) one of two things could happen. You'll definitely get distorted sound, as the sounds will mesh together. Hopefully that is all. Worse case scenario... you'll be putting in twice as much voltage (although still very low) than the system is expecting to handle. This could cause damage to the circuitry.
I don't know for sure which would be the case. As I mentioned in the beginning, the original AUX jack had something broken inside, so I removed it from my radio. Therefore, I can't run that experiment.
Last edited by brattwurzt; 03-21-2008 at 12:25 PM.
#18
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My MP3 player has bluetooth. I currently hang it from the AUX port by a shorty patch cord.
I'm thinking about this mod, but with a bluetooth receiver hardwired and mounted inside the dash. (I bought the receiver for next to nothing when geeks.com had a sale a while back. They're still only $25. The beauty of it is the receiver uses a 12V wall wart -easily converted to vehicle use.)
geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=IUBHK&cpc=SCH
I'm thinking about this mod, but with a bluetooth receiver hardwired and mounted inside the dash. (I bought the receiver for next to nothing when geeks.com had a sale a while back. They're still only $25. The beauty of it is the receiver uses a 12V wall wart -easily converted to vehicle use.)
geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=IUBHK&cpc=SCH
#20
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Think you could try to re post the photos? I have been thinking of doing this - and just want to see what I am getting myself into prior to doing so. Thanks! Great thread by the way - -