Here is a quick write up for a nice low profile alternative DIY switch panel on the A pillar of the JK.

I looked at some of the commercial options for an A pillar switch panel and didn't like the price tag, or the big clunky boxy look of the modern style rocker switches. So I came up with my own plan inspired by the classic look in land rovers and old jeeps with simple toggle switches. I like the feel of a good toggle switch as well, they have a nice satisfying click.

I'm very happy with the final result. Location is conveniently reached from both inside, and outside the jeep. And the low profile is nice and out of the way, doesn't block any sight lines. I have my lights, on board air, and the rubicon locker override switches wired to these. (the pictures were taken before I had the lockers wired in).

I used guards from E-bay. search "classic U-shaped toggle switch guards". (double check dimensions if you are using my template to make sure they match what I used)
For the Switches, I used Carling 2GK54-73 15A DPST toggle switches with screw terminals. (the switches screw terminals do need to be oriented as shown or they will hit the window frame.) I tried several different switches and these were the ones that had the nice satisfying snap I was looking for to give that old school quality feel.

It is worth noting that this nice slim profile comes at a price. You will need to cut off some of the ribs on the back side of the stock A-pillar panel to make room for the switches. To maximize space, I laid out the switches and guards in 3D CAD to get them as close as clearance allowed. I ended up 3D printing a thin template to use as a drill guide for their locations. It wouldn't let me upload the CAD file or the STL, so you'll have to make do with the drawing PDF. I found where I wanted it located, drilled the initial switch hole and the last switch hole, and they used those two holes to bolt the template in place while i drilled the rest. The template is only pilot holes, you will have to drill out to correct size after that.

When assembling, because of the tight fit, you do have to add things in in sequential order (switch, guard, next switch, next guard, and so on) in order to have access to tighten the nuts on the back side.

There are many wiring guides, so I wont get into that. I did go to relays, but these switches should be able to handle direct switching of lights or similar loads if you so desired. I will note that the little lever connector I used was super convenient, would recommend.

Hope this inspires someone else looking for a switch pod alternative. The only thing I would change if I did it again, is to add some indicator lights. I had that all planned out, but just decided I didn't want to put the effort in. Especially testing LEDs to find ones that were bright enough to get noticed, without being so bright that the glare would be distracting while driving at night. I now wish I had put in the effort, especially for the front and rear locker override switches so that I don't forget they're switched on.


Old school switches with classic switch guards in between to prevent snagging on shirts, straps or other items. Prevents accidental toggle, and should provide some protection in a crash to make sure those hard metal switches don't impale anything.

Location is easily accessed when outside the jeep.

The switches sit nice and snug in the front corner and don't impede visibility.

Rear wiring with screw terminals. Had to use some shrink tubing on a few to make sure they don't ground out on the frame. It all fits, but it is a little tight.

You can see here how I routed the wires.

This side panel comes off easily, to tuck wires. There is a pre existing hole in the fire wall to use right here. Filled with foam that you have to push the wires through.

I found that it was a little unstable with the stock clips. I used this 3M Dual Lock mounting strips to do the job.

Here is another view of where I mounted the strip. If you've never used this stuff it's great. It functions similar to velcro, but it's rock solid and not 'mushy' like velcro. The standard has a 75lbs rating and you get a nice satisfying "snap" when it engages.

To make the wiring easy to connect from the engine bay, I used one of these beauties as a connector. Flip the lever up, insert wire, flip lever down and voila, connection made.

 

If a Moderator could edit the thread title to “Old School A-Pillar Toggle Switch Panel" it would be greatly appreciated.I accidentally hit return before I finished typing and it seems like I don't have the option to edit the thread title.

 

your wish is my command