Rear Camera: Custom Adjustable Bracket (14$)
I purchased a flush-mount rear camera, the good old $22 PYLE PLCM22IR from Amazon. Didn't want to drill through my bumper partly because I didn't want a whole in it, but also because I wanted something adjustable if possible.
Items Used:
1) I wired up the camera, the Video cable going under the cargo carpet, through to the console between the two front seat, onto the stereo (couldn't go around the passenger side, not enough length.
2) I drew the 12V power form the input close to the 4-wheel stickshift, and ran that to the cargo. That allows me to turn on the camera at any time if needed.
3) Important: Now I had the camera hooked up and could check all the different angles, before choosing a mount. I had originally wanted a spare-tire mount, but that prevented me from seeing close enough to my trailer hitch (could see closer than 2-3 feet).
4) Didn't want to drill into bumper, so I purchase this following piece of aluminum from HD for $14. Cut piece for the mount that was wide enough to be sturdy, and long enough to be drilled in two rows behind the bumper (note, small whole was not needed, initially planned on locking the mount through one of the hitch screws).
I also curved back the bottom of the bracket for added projection.

[*]5) Added Goop in the whole before screwing the mount into the bumper, to waterproof the wholes and make the whole setup nice and tight.
[*]6) Tested the angle of the camera, adjustable with the aluminum bending slightly as needed.[/LIST]
Results: Adjustable, Factory-bumper, med-easy, sturdy mount. Camera on whenever I switch to the video input



Items Used:
- Aluminum Sheet ($14) at HD
- 4 Metal Screws (laying around)
- Drill
- Dremmel
- Marine Good (waterproofing screws to bumper)
- Rear camera
- 18 Gauge wire (to get the power from the 12v inlet from the center console to trunk)
1) I wired up the camera, the Video cable going under the cargo carpet, through to the console between the two front seat, onto the stereo (couldn't go around the passenger side, not enough length.
2) I drew the 12V power form the input close to the 4-wheel stickshift, and ran that to the cargo. That allows me to turn on the camera at any time if needed.
3) Important: Now I had the camera hooked up and could check all the different angles, before choosing a mount. I had originally wanted a spare-tire mount, but that prevented me from seeing close enough to my trailer hitch (could see closer than 2-3 feet).
4) Didn't want to drill into bumper, so I purchase this following piece of aluminum from HD for $14. Cut piece for the mount that was wide enough to be sturdy, and long enough to be drilled in two rows behind the bumper (note, small whole was not needed, initially planned on locking the mount through one of the hitch screws).
I also curved back the bottom of the bracket for added projection.

[*]5) Added Goop in the whole before screwing the mount into the bumper, to waterproof the wholes and make the whole setup nice and tight.
[*]6) Tested the angle of the camera, adjustable with the aluminum bending slightly as needed.[/LIST]
Results: Adjustable, Factory-bumper, med-easy, sturdy mount. Camera on whenever I switch to the video input



Neat mod and nice write up
Thanks guys.
.. correct I both don't offroad a lot but made it as close to the bumper as possible so that in terms of height the hitch would protect it. Furthermore, the muffler is also a lot lower if we're talking clearance.
The back of the camera could take a projectile like a rock so I built the small undercover which could be extended to cover the whole camera length.
In the worse case if anything happens this option gives me the most flexibility to revert later, and a 22$ camera should be pretty straightforward to replace as the plugs for power and video are both in the jack compartment.
The back of the camera could take a projectile like a rock so I built the small undercover which could be extended to cover the whole camera length.
In the worse case if anything happens this option gives me the most flexibility to revert later, and a 22$ camera should be pretty straightforward to replace as the plugs for power and video are both in the jack compartment.


