SwankPOD (DIY sPOD) "My last name is Swank"
04-09-2013, 06:29 AM
#12
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
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You are correct the run-down protection is something that I didn't work into my unit. I did consider it as it is a really nice feature they offer. In the end I wasn't really worried about it. There are some units out there that monitor the difference of alternator voltage vs battery voltage (14.6v vs 12v). They are meant to be used to activate aftermarket Daytime-Running-Lamps. Here is a link to one: LED Daytime Running Light (DRL) Automatic Control On/Off Switch Relay Harness | Xenon Gas H.I.D Conversion Kit | Auto Lamp Lighting I see no reason you couldn't use this to activate a master relay instead...
Of course this method isn't really a low-voltage detection but is rather a "running" detection. So the accessories would be off when-ever the Jeep was.
Of course this method isn't really a low-voltage detection but is rather a "running" detection. So the accessories would be off when-ever the Jeep was.
04-09-2013, 06:59 AM
#13
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Here are some options for you...
30A for $50 "NEW" 12 Volt 30 Amp Low Voltage Disconnect
200A for $125 Cole Hersee Sure Start Auto Low Voltage Disconnect 1 Each Cole Hersee - SureStart™ Automatic Low Voltage Disconnect Switch [CH-48510] - $125.41 : TheElectricalDepot.com!, Electrical Connectors and Much More!
These would simply go in-line to the main supply.
(I may end up adding this after-all. Then it truly would be sPOD like) I would like to find a 50A version for me.
30A for $50 "NEW" 12 Volt 30 Amp Low Voltage Disconnect
200A for $125 Cole Hersee Sure Start Auto Low Voltage Disconnect 1 Each Cole Hersee - SureStart™ Automatic Low Voltage Disconnect Switch [CH-48510] - $125.41 : TheElectricalDepot.com!, Electrical Connectors and Much More!
These would simply go in-line to the main supply.
(I may end up adding this after-all. Then it truly would be sPOD like) I would like to find a 50A version for me.
04-09-2013, 08:22 AM
#15
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
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Here are some options for you...
30A for $50 "NEW" 12 Volt 30 Amp Low Voltage Disconnect
200A for $125 Cole Hersee Sure Start Auto Low Voltage Disconnect 1 Each Cole Hersee - SureStart™ Automatic Low Voltage Disconnect Switch [CH-48510] - $125.41 : TheElectricalDepot.com!, Electrical Connectors and Much More!
These would simply go in-line to the main supply.
(I may end up adding this after-all. Then it truly would be sPOD like) I would like to find a 50A version for me.
30A for $50 "NEW" 12 Volt 30 Amp Low Voltage Disconnect
200A for $125 Cole Hersee Sure Start Auto Low Voltage Disconnect 1 Each Cole Hersee - SureStart™ Automatic Low Voltage Disconnect Switch [CH-48510] - $125.41 : TheElectricalDepot.com!, Electrical Connectors and Much More!
These would simply go in-line to the main supply.
(I may end up adding this after-all. Then it truly would be sPOD like) I would like to find a 50A version for me.
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04-10-2013, 04:10 AM
#17
JK Freak
Thread Starter
I use these...
I did this at the Head-light bulb connector. (This is also what I used to tap into the wire for the locker bypass) They work great and are much more reliable than most other types. The only better connection would be to actually cut the insulation back and/or wires, then solder and shrink-tube them. I chose not to do this because it it pretty easy to undo this connection where as the soldering technique is more permanent.
There is no problem tying into this wire because the only load you are adding is that of the relay coil and capacitor. The diode is in place to keep the now steady 12v on the relay coil from imposing on the square-wave signal the OE circuit uses. (It forces the capacitors discharge to go through the coil). Notice this will delay the activation and deactivation by about 1/2 second as the cap will need time to charge and discharge. It makes for a pretty cool flash sequence
I did this at the Head-light bulb connector. (This is also what I used to tap into the wire for the locker bypass) They work great and are much more reliable than most other types. The only better connection would be to actually cut the insulation back and/or wires, then solder and shrink-tube them. I chose not to do this because it it pretty easy to undo this connection where as the soldering technique is more permanent.
There is no problem tying into this wire because the only load you are adding is that of the relay coil and capacitor. The diode is in place to keep the now steady 12v on the relay coil from imposing on the square-wave signal the OE circuit uses. (It forces the capacitors discharge to go through the coil). Notice this will delay the activation and deactivation by about 1/2 second as the cap will need time to charge and discharge. It makes for a pretty cool flash sequence
04-15-2013, 06:19 PM
#18
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NE Ohio
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How are the Oracle switches holding up? They seem awesome, I've been eying them up for about a year now and just haven't pulled the trigger.
Great write-up, I can't wait to give it a go.
Great write-up, I can't wait to give it a go.
04-15-2013, 08:09 PM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bartlett, IL
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For someone who doesn't have any skills at electrical systems, you are a genius. Have you ever thought of selling one of these. PM me please if you want to sell one