Tailgate shock project Done!!
03-14-2007, 12:27 PM
#11
JK Freak
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Williamsburg, Va
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DBB you are a man among men.
My diveway has some side slope plus it's somewhat steep. That tailgate is always trying to shut on me when I'm hoisting my heavy amp into the cargo area.
I love welding mods. Thanks for taking the time to document & post.
My diveway has some side slope plus it's somewhat steep. That tailgate is always trying to shut on me when I'm hoisting my heavy amp into the cargo area.
I love welding mods. Thanks for taking the time to document & post.
03-14-2007, 01:19 PM
#12
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is a great idea, Taylor Made makes them for hatches on boats. The come in a ball form, here is a link to the gas pistons and brackets.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...an/asc/45/grid
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...an/asc/45/grid
03-14-2007, 04:22 PM
#13
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im glad you guys like it!!
I had time today to make a few improvements.
1. I put 1/2 inch spacers between the jeep wall and bracket so the piston would sit against the rubber seal.
2. I bought a lower lb shock rated at 20 lbs so it opens slower and easier without that much force so the bracket and door doesn't slam open. I did buy the 15 lb one but that was to light. The one I had on before was a 50 lb shock. I think I may even change that to a 30 this week to see how that is.
Mcmaster part # 9416K191 is the 20 lb
I had time today to make a few improvements.
1. I put 1/2 inch spacers between the jeep wall and bracket so the piston would sit against the rubber seal.
2. I bought a lower lb shock rated at 20 lbs so it opens slower and easier without that much force so the bracket and door doesn't slam open. I did buy the 15 lb one but that was to light. The one I had on before was a 50 lb shock. I think I may even change that to a 30 this week to see how that is.
Mcmaster part # 9416K191 is the 20 lb
03-14-2007, 06:45 PM
#14
JK Super Freak
Im glad you guys like it!!
I had time today to make a few improvements.
1. I put 1/2 inch spacers between the jeep wall and bracket so the piston would sit against the rubber seal.
2. I bought a lower lb shock rated at 20 lbs so it opens slower and easier without that much force so the bracket and door doesn't slam open. I did buy the 15 lb one but that was to light. The one I had on before was a 50 lb shock. I think I may even change that to a 30 this week to see how that is.
Mcmaster part # 9416K191 is the 20 lb
I had time today to make a few improvements.
1. I put 1/2 inch spacers between the jeep wall and bracket so the piston would sit against the rubber seal.
2. I bought a lower lb shock rated at 20 lbs so it opens slower and easier without that much force so the bracket and door doesn't slam open. I did buy the 15 lb one but that was to light. The one I had on before was a 50 lb shock. I think I may even change that to a 30 this week to see how that is.
Mcmaster part # 9416K191 is the 20 lb
03-15-2007, 03:40 AM
#15
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I gotta give it to Mcmaster - I use them for work and there's just so much stuff its incredible. And if I order b4 12pm I'll have it by 3pm Same day!!
03-23-2007, 09:11 AM
#17
JeepSWAG
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Sponsoring Manufacturer
borrowed your idea,... with different parts
Same project. I chose to use the Ball Joint shocks, and standard Ball Joint Brackets. I used Nutserts to mount the brackets to the sheet metal. You could easily through-bolt the brackets behind the Subwoofer. Access is easy by removing the taillight. I had to use 1/2" spacers for both brackets. All parts purchased at West Marine. A 40 Lb. shock is better, as there is less leverage with this approach.
