nthinuf

For Caster, you need to rotate the entire axle housing. To do this, you can use drop brackets, a set of adjustable control arms, longer lower fixed ca's, or shorter upper fixed ca's.

An angle finder will get you in the ballpark if you don't want to take it in to an alignment shop. (some will throw it on the rack and print the 'before' specs for free) Different people will suggest different locations for the angle finder. Knuckle, flat round spot on the housing itself, the flange at the driveshaft. I'd suggest that you try a few different locations and compare the results. And be sure to note any angle of the ground/driveway when doing this of course

Flatblack83

Ok, I understand that the swaybar and Caster are for different things for sure..I need to stop jumping back and forth in a conversation..lol.. I'll look into control arms, what way is a better way without buying a whole set of control arms..?

Not a jeep but, the caster on my truck is adjusted with adjustable uppers and lowers, it drives the best at 5-6 degrees. On a dana 60 u can use the angle finder on the knuckle each side to get both sides even. Also has the lowest amount of body roll with the sway bar flat and the links close to straight.

resharp001

The track bar is very sensitive to proper torque specs, and difference of 35 ft lbs is HUGE for that. Count yourself lucky it didn't cause a bigger wobble that could have reeked havoc on other components.

If you're still getting small reaction in the steering, it's likely just little bump steer related to caster. Since the jeep is going on 6 years old, and since it is new to you, it's probably a good idea just to inspect your ball joints, TREs, and DL, especially if it's still got the factory BJs in it. Those are a common source of headaches on lifted JKs with larger tires.

In regards to caster, I agree with getting a readout from an alignment shop. You already know what difference small changes in caster can make, and what I'd submit to you is that the margin of error with an angle finder is a little high. There was another thread a while back we compared some findings, and even digital finders with a clear display were off by .5* or so compared to verified alignment specs. Half a degree is a big difference when we're talking 4-5*, and those readings were also taking in to account any tiny slope in garage floors and such. What I would say is that an angle finder is great as a base for measurement. For example, if you get an alignment spec and know your caster is 3.5*, you can go home and see what an angle finder reads, and then use that as a base to increase your caster by .5* or 1*, or whatever you want it at without having to go back to the shop for a new reading. If you plan to play in the rocks at all, you might see if you can find a good deal on a lifetime alignment. I have a lifetime at Firrestone that I think cost me $140 vs. the 1-time ~$70. I've used it a few times over the last 5 years when I've made changes over time.

With a 2.5" lift, you can get by with just adjustable front lower arms to push the axle a touch forward (therby lowering the pinion angle and raising caster). Many opt for the control arm brackets, but you obviously lose some clearance that route. If you go with arms, look at the bushings that Synergy and Metalcloak use and compare them to others you might be interested in.

Flatblack83

With the alignment heads on it's right at 3.9- 4 degrees, the drag link and tierodends are tight. Ball joints are tight on one side and a super small amount of play which is barely noticeable on the other. Since it has 60k on it would it be better to get a set of lowers instead of the brackets..? Are the fixed lowers ok since they have like stockish joints that way you dont feel any vibes or road noise I should say. Honestly it will see the road more than the trail. Heres a pic or two.

nthinuf

Various companies offer various types of joints. MetalCloak and Synergy were mentioned above because they use a more stock-like bushing. (I think Teraflex has one now as well?) Worth looking at before you decide.

Fixed lowers will work fine. The negative is that whatever caster you end up with ... is what you end up with.

The added benefit to brackets is that they lower the frame end of the control arms as well as raising caster. Similar theory to a draglink flip flattening the steep angles on the trackbar and draglink. One other possible plus to brackets is that some will have several sets of holes corresponding to different lift heights, which could be good to have for future changes. Again, worth looking at before you decide.

You still have the little retainer washer things on the wheel studs?
I'm not sure from the pics, but those shocks do not have the integrated bumpstops?

Flatblack83

Ok so I see the fixed lowers might not be perfect getting the caster correct. I see what the brackets do and they might be an actual good idea...I'm not sure what way to go. Adj lowers or the brackets..if I do the lowers I'll do new uppers sometime. No bump stops on those shocks. Also no I cut of those rotor retaining washers, I know they wouldnt let the spacer sit flat. Oh and my wife drove it 50 miles today and said it drives just fine..lol

tjkamp

Check your ball joints and wheel bearings. What you are describing is exactly what mine started doing when my ball joints and wheel bearings went bad.

resharp001

I'm good bit surprised you're saying you've only lost .2 to .3* caster (factory is 4.2* and you're saying you're at 3.9 to 4*) with a 2.5" lift on a jeep that looks pretty light (no heavy mods like bumpers/winch, etc). (I presume no cam bolts or else you would have mentioned them)

SoK66

The most consistent knock on RC is they sell kits that are incomplete. You've added some components to finish the suspension that should have come with the kit. By time you do so the price is comparable to full featured kits, live AEV, etc. Assuming you don't have ball joint issues, loose track bar bolts as Dirtman alluded to, etc. you likely have the need to correct caster. On lifts like that I've had best luck adding front control arm drop brackets, like AEV, JKS, etc. they correct caster and restore stock front control arm geometry. Easy to install.

Flatblack83

The wheel bearings and ball joints seem good, the track bars are tight. I ordered a set of Rancho correction brackets since they are welded together instead of being two pieces and the reviews are good. That way I can get the caster back to where it needs to be and get this thing to drive right again.

I wouldnt of bought this kit if I knew more and searched more. Some of this stuff I should of known about with my current vehicle being straight axled. I'd of just bought a kit that came with the correction, track bar etc. Live n learn.. I only bought this because I didnt want a budget boost, plus I wanted springs and new shocks...being cheap about it didnt help and cost me more.