catahoula

You have a 2016 so new engine higher hp. I test drove a new Jeep with new engine, 3.21 gears, auto and had a 2" Mopar suspension with 33" tires. I was very surprised it still had power. I would have been happy with that set up. I have older engine and, auto with 3.73 gears and would probably switch gears if running 35's.

TheDirtman

It depends on the level of ride quality and performance. Check the link in my signature about lifts for more info.

Rednroll

What is "truly" needed?

Anytime you lift, what you are doing is changing the geometry of the entire suspension from its original design which has been optimized for the best ride, steeering, etc. The end goal is to get back to that originally designed geometry with the added lift. So what is truly needed is that you should replace every suspension component so that it has a proportionate amount of increase in length to the additional height you added for the lift increase. That's expensive, so with most of these lifts, what they do is they make some type of adapter bracket which fits between one of its mounting points and the original component. That is a compromise solution, it's an adapter bracket. In other words it increased the overall length of that original component to match the amount of lift added but it didn't actually increase the length of the actual component. The real end game is to replace all those original actual components with one of the proper length to match the lift amount.

I would suggest you start by reading through the top 2 threads stickied to this forum. There is tons of good information which explains what the individual components of the suspension do.

I would also suggest getting under your JK and then looking at everything that attaches to the axles. 99% of the components that are impacted when you lift are connected to the axle, where the other side of that component is typically connected to the frame.

With the lesser cost lifts, what they will do is either not replace those original components because the lift amount isn't large enough where the original part will still function. It won't function 100% properly but it will still serve it's main purpose. The upgrade from not replacing the component is to use an extension bracket, and then from there is the most costly option of entirely replacing the original component with the longer length one. All the lifts out there are a mix and match of those combinations of not replacing, adding a bracket extension, or replacing each and every component that attaches to the axles.

When you're talking spring lifts vs. puck lifts. What you're really talking about is that the puck is the extension bracket mod solution, the spring is the component replacement solution. Spring lengths are typically matched with the length of the shocks and tuned to work together. Therefore the lesser expensive puck lifts will add a bracket for the shocks to also increase the length of the shock, the upgraded kits will replace the shock with a longer one. So think about that a little. With the puck lift, although it will work, the shock and springs are still shorter in length where they will no longer be operating in their optimal ranges as designed for the entire travel of the suspension when the shocks and springs flex up and down.

Personally, I would never do a puck lift for one simple reason. It doesn't put you on the path to the end game solution, where a lift which includes replacement springs and shocks does and you continue to do the same with all the other components as you learn more about the negative aspects associated with not doing the end game complete component replacement solution.

The sway bar links connect from the axle to the sway bar. The sway bar connects to the frame. Kits that include the sway bar links are longer in length then the original sway bar link lengths....they put you on the path to the proper end game solution.

Hope that helps to simplify things.

cidd

I'm leaning toward getting a kit with springs and shocks I had a puck lift in my old TJ it was ok but just a little to stiff for me . I would like to try and keep the stock smooth ride if possible

catahoula

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16031_4310_07.htm

Good luck!

nthinuf

There are options because everyone will have different budgets, and there is a whole lot of personal preference involved.

Start with the thread that was mentioned. It is linked at the bottom of his post, and is also stuck right to the top of this Modified area. Get a better understanding of what all the various components actually do!

And remember that a 2" spacer will give 2" of lift. A 2" coil could give 1". It could give 2". Or, it could give 3", and might even give 4". As the height increases, you will want more and more components to correct the problems that you caused.

Rednroll

If price is no concern, then look at one of the Metalcoak Game Changer lifts. It's one of the most complete lift kits that seems to include all the necessary replacement components.

The one thing those don't include is a replacement drive shaft....(ie another one of those components that connect to the axle). So add a replacement drive shaft to one of the Game Changer kits and you should be pretty well set.

ReadyToMount

For a basic budget boost you don't need much. Ride should not change as the factory suspension is not really altered. Same shocks, same springs. Little steeper angles on the arms and steering, but should be okay. Make sure you get an alignment after install. If you just want to clear a bigger tire then that is the cheapest way out to move up to around a 35" tire. I would get the bumpstop extensions, to keep the uptravel under control and keeps the tires out of the fenders. We sell a lot of these kits. Zone Offroad 2" Coil Spacer Kit J2203
That is entry level it all goes up from there. Next popular kit for us is the K3099B from Pro Comp. For a bargain that gives you new coils, shocks, brackets needed. Only thing you may need is adjustable cam bolts for the front lower control arms to get your caster back in spec. That majorly affects handling (trackability)

cidd

just had to show me the metal cloak set up didn't you That is nice I'm going to have to think about that one

nthinuf

Research. Metalcloak is good stuff, but their coils are designed with heavy jeeps and added weight in mind. Assuming you are relatively light, you'll likely get quite a bit more height than you expect. (I got closer to 5" from their 3.5" coils, and am really considering dropping down to the 2.5").

Anyway, just a heads-up, since you started this thread wanting a 2" lift.