Anyone do a drivers side down pipe loop delete on a 2012+?

I know many long arm kits require the removal of this. I was wondering about negative effects and/or CEL, etc.

I'm not going long-arm....I hit my loop on an obstacle and it bent the flange lose from the block ever so slightly. I now have what sounds like a 2012 JKU go-kart. Hasn't thrown a CEL yet, but I am taking it to the exhaust shop tomorrow to see what my options for repair are. If it cant be done I am thinking of the MOPAR replacement downpipe ($$$ ??) or an aftermarket replacement that does the loop delete.


Thanks for the input.

 

From what I've read you will want to keep the loop. The reason it is there is to keep the same length of pipe on each side of the engine. People who have removed it have reported power loss and the engine not running as well do to the balance of pressure being off. I hope this helps.

 

i would agree that this is probably a negative issue just from a normal engine standpoint. One thing you might consider is breaking apart the headers into separate exhaust pipes and not having them join up. End up with a dual pipe configuration which would keep each engine bank with the correct backpressure. Might be a pain to plumb it in but a good exhaust shop should have options.

 

I don't know where you read that info, but that is what I believed until I did more research. I had a long arm installed and worked like hell trying to keep the exhaust loop or at least keep both sides of my exhaust the same length because of what I was reading on the forums. After 3 different trips to the muffler shop, I finally had it cut out because my long arm and the exhaust loop weren't compatible. There are numerous people that have had the loop cut out and there is no difference in the butt dyno compared to leaving the loop in. If there is any power decrease, it will only be noticeable on the dyno because my JKU doesn't drive any differently with or without the loop. In fact, given the choice, I'd rather cut it out even if that means losing a little power so that I can have my long arm suspension versus leaving the loop in and be stuck with a mid arm suspension. Regarding power, I have a heavy 2012 JKU Rubicon auto with 4.56 gears, 37" Toyo tires, a PR44U, a PR60, full underbody steel skids, sport cage, front and rear full width steel bumpers with winch, etc... My power is just fine without the exhaust loop. As an added bonus, the exhaust isn't hanging down below the frame rail asking to be knocked off like what happened to the OP.

 

Did you just shorten the one side then and reconnect into a single exhaust exit?

 

Why do both head pipes have to be the same length before joining up? Not that it's the same, but I've been riding performance bikes and hogs for years, and the header pipes are all different lengths. The back pressure is caused by the baffles in the muffler. I can't see it being a big problem.

 

Sorry, didn't see your post or I would have responded sooner. I cut out the exhaust loop, shortened it, and then ran it around the RK control arm mounting bracket. If you look closely at the first photo, you can see that the exhaust loop is gone and that I also pushed the hard brake line that is wrapped in heat shield tape above the control arm mount. The brake line was running inside of the frame rail and had to be moved, so that the control arm mount could be welded in place. Both exhaust pipes now run directly into the Borla muffler and then change to a single exhaust on the other side of the muffler. The y-pipe is gone.

 

Did you remove your catalytic converter by deleting the collector?