I 2nd nthinuf above. You should really consider their 2.5" springs over the 3.5". Going higher isn't any more impressive or anything IMO. Go high enough to accommodate the tire. Anything higher is just making driveability worse, or at least harder to correct. Also, the whole front DS thing is indeed a crapshoot. I had a buddy with a 2.5" TF budget boost that never left the pavement and front DS crapped out at 20k miles. Pretty crazy. It's just best to know that at some point it will likely need addressing.

 

Ordered the MC 2.5" setup with their RS Shocks and HD steering system today. Also ordered the TF joints. I really liked the RP BJ's, but for what I plan on doing, I think the TF's should work for me for now. Should be getting the kit in 3 weeks, will take some pics once its strapped in.
Now the decision as to which wheels and tires to add to the mix is in play. Initially, I was planning on keeping the 5 spoke stocks and add 35"s, but some who i spoke with during the ordering exercise cautioned against it. Curious as to your takes on what I should do here.

 

there are hundreds of 17x9" wheels with 4.5" BS that would be perfect for 35s. IMO, there is nothing wrong with the factory 5-spoke with spacers, but it's def not the ideal longer term solution, and when you factor in the cost of mounting/dismounting/mounting....it's sometimes just best to make that decision up front and do it right.

For the record, MC typically underpromises and over delivers. I think they always build in these long shipping times for protection, but they often show up quickly. Don't be surprised if the stuff is there much, much faster. I think anything I've ever ordered said 3 weeks and was there within the week. I really don't think you'll be disappointed, but definitely follow up with your thoughts. If you need help or pointers for the BJ job just ask. Many of us will tell you the little tips.....like get a 12-pt 12mm socket from the auto store for the unit bearing bolts

 

The issue with the 35's on stock wheels is that you end up eating more of the center tread faster than you should- if you run decent street pressures (30psi +). It wasn't a huge issue for me, I think I put 40-45k miles on mine that way and it was only a couple 32's of an inch difference between the outside edges and the center of the tread. What persuaded me to make the move was a "deal" I found on ebay on some AEV wheels I've always wanted.

Resharp001 is on point- but it's the 13mm 12pt socket you're looking for. Don't be afraid to spend a couple bucks on a nicer one. I have a cheap one that wasin my trail bag. It is no longer because I was testing it out in the garage and it would not bite. I went back to my tried and true snappy socket (probably overkill) and it worked like it always does. FWIW- I have the 3/8" drive impact rated socket and it hasn't let me down.

 

Just a follow up on Metalcloak, although i havent bought a lift from them yet <- notice i said yet Over the past few months i have bought front and rear bumpers and their full Overland fender and sliders kit and was given a 5-6 week lead time, it took all of the 6 weeks to show up. I was rather surprised how beefy everything is, if you grab a part and move it, the part doesnt move the entire jeep moves.

If you have any question about their products give them a call, I've called a few times and was always greeted by someone who gave quick prompt answers to any of my questions. My rear bumper was actually missing the release handle for the tier carrier, called them up and with the only question of, is this your correct shipping address, had a new handle shipped out the same day.

The only bad thing i can say about them.... which isnt a bad thing, was each part was shipped in its own box with a ton of packing. Lets just say the Fedex guy wasnt happy delivering 16 large heavy boxes and the recycling guy having to pick up all the cardboard the next week

 

Congrats to the OP - you asked, listened and bought basically exactly what the good advice stated. My MC at full flex does not creak, groan or squeal one bit. My stock Jeep system always reminded me of full flex. And you will be able to dial in diff angles, front for caster and rear for driveshaft angle. Don't forget to purchase longer brake lines for the lift. I broke one last Sunday and went with Metalcloak 26" and they sit nicely and full lock to lock no issues. The break was not caused by lift. It was a 3-4" thick piece of ice in a puddle that came up and hit the steel bit by the frame on the front and fractured the line. It was stock, rusty and time to buy longer. Also stay away from the drop brackets on the rear as they expose the line to sway bar link damage, use the longer lines I just mentioned - ask me why I know this?

 

Longer links and cut what's left of the bolt hanging out. ......I also snagged a brake line with longer links.

 

Finally finished the MC install, and a bit of paint work on the frame and other components using POR-15 products. Quite the task for a rookie like me, but got through it. Shopping for wheels next, but installed spacers for the moment to get me by. I posted a few pics to show the results.
Now I need some help in bleeding out the abs system using the JScan with the v-peak OBD tool. I don’t want to make things worse without some guidance. Any suggestions on a feed on the sequence I should execute?
I really appreciate the advice y’all provided, definitely glad I reached out and listened, happy with my mods so far.

 

Is there some reason you think you need to bleed the ABS system, or are you just talking about bleeding the brake lines since you installed new ones?

 

I’d assume he’s talking about bleeding the brakes since he added new lines.

Since you only added new flexible lines, you can really bleed them in any order. A sequence is really only important to follow if you’re bleeding a whole system after replacing a master cylinder or something high up stream. But for your purposes, just bleed each corner at your convenience and you’ll be fine.