ShakeNBake

Hey guys and gals, first I want to say thanks for your time and knowledge in this matter. Now to the details! I just got my first Rubicon JKU which I am very excited about and want to make sure I lift it correctly. I plan to run a 35" tire, MAYBE a 37" down the road. A new drive shaft isn't an option, so I'm steering clear of 37's ATM. My jeep is primarily used as a DD to shuttle my kids around, however I like trying to be a weekend warrior. ( 90% Road, 10% Off-Road) In my past JKU's I ran the RC 3.5" Series II Suspension | RC Adjustable Track Bar | RC Control Arm Relocation | Dual RCX Steering Stabilizer and LOVED IT. However with this being a Rubicon I really feel like I need to spend the extra money and do it right with TeraFlex or Rock Crawler? What does everyone think? Budget is around 1,200 to 1,800. I also have a friend telling me MetalCloak is the ONLY way to go?

jordy

Planning ahead is awesome as you're going to end up at 37's at some point, or bigger, and go from there. Pay once, cry once has always been my motto. That being said, don't skimp, especially on something like suspension as you'll just end up spending twice the money to replace it down the road.

Now get ready for a bunch of posts explaining why whatever is on that poster's Jeep is the best there is.

ShakeNBake

Right? I don't mind, just trying to decide what I should do... If I hadn't heard so many people talking about how crappy and saggy Rough Country is, I would honestly use them again. I never had issue's... Just feel like I need to use one of the "Better" brands this time since I don't plan on ever selling this jeep! =D

jordy

In that case you should clearly opt for the Evo Double Throwdown front and rear.

EVO MFG Front Double ThrowDown Coilover/Bypass System ? Off Road Evolution

EVO MFG Rear Double ThrowDown EVOLever System (W/ Coilover & Bypass) JK/JKU ? Off Road Evolution

Probably going to want to upgrade axles while you're at it. Did you say you had an unlimited budget to work with?

jordy

OK, so now that I got my suspension promo out of the way, I'll give you a serious response. Who gives a shit what other people say? At the end of the day you build your ride for you. If it works for what you do, who cares? I have one person to impress, and it's me. If someone else doesn't like what I'm running, they better be prepared to pay for me to upgrade it then or keep their mouth shut.

Find what works for you and go with it, at least until you get a sponsor who wants to pay for what they think you should have.

Oh, and if that happens, I want a cut as your agent.

TheDirtman

If you were happy with the RC then not sure why you think a rubicon needs something different. But I will tell you the geometry of the RC is poor and a lot of even the higher end long arm suffer from poor geometry due to the limitations the JK gives you. 10% wheeling is a lot of time on the trails. I wish I had time to spend a month + a year on the trails. The build imo should be geared towards what you do most with the vehicle which is on road and have the upgraded parts that you need for surviving the trails. AS you already have the rubicon not much more is really needed and if you are just going 35's now some flat fenders and a 3/4" coil spacer up front is more then enough. Your lockers, 35" tires as well as the 4:1 transfer case is going to make your rig able to tackle most trails. I am sure you are not taking your jeep up steep rock ledges and massive boulder fields where you need 37"+ tires and massive articulation. 37"+ tires and big lifts done right are just huge amounts of money and time out the door and not needed unless you are running extreme trails where body damage and roll overs are common.

ShakeNBake

You are right, if a trail system is rated 1-5, I typically never do more than a 3. Your comment about sticking with what I have used before is well noted as well, I just keep reading so much about people saying to stay away from them. Honestly I can say 99% of the reason I want the lift is for the more aggressive look. Hate having a Rubicon and pulling up smaller than almost every jeep on the road around here... =D

AMPDinCOLORADO

Aev 2.5 ds. If you're not going to ride trails over a 3 you don't need 37's. Ever. The aev 2.5 is a fantastic lift for on and off road. I'm running it now with 35's. Sounds like you do about the same amount of road/trail riding I do and about the same level of difficulty. But we lol have our preferences. Just letting you know mine :-)

nthinuf

Any lift will give you the lifted 'look'. Just a cheap 2.5" BB would likely be fine for your needs.

When you are comparing lifts, it may be worth a few minutes of your time figuring out what the specific components actually do, and seeing what is included in the various lifts you are looking at. Why is one a thousand dollars cheaper or more expensive than another? - there's a good chance it is more than just the name on the side of the box. (cam bolts? drop pitman? frame-side trackbar bracket? Fixed arms instead of Adjustable?) Buy what fits your needs and budget, but at least know what you are buying...

If you haven't clicked the link at the bottom of any of Dirtmans posts, that's a decent place to start.

Rednroll

Outside of what Dirtman already noted, which is always top notch advise I would suggest for your budget to look at the 2in and 4in Mopar lifts.

The 2in lift nets 3in actual and comes with a front driveshaft. You say, you don't want to invest in a driveshaft but for 2012+ JK's you'll likely be investing in a driveshaft. The Mopar lift kits include a driveshaft and are very complete kits. Read some reviews and you'll see there are many happy customers. Mopar has completely re-designed their lifts since 2014, so try to avoid older reviews where they used Teraflex sourced lifts.

The 2in 2012+ Mopar lift can be found for $1100 and the 4in for around $1800 both include driveshafts. The Mopar 2in will fit 35's easily and if you plan to go with 37's in the future then consider the Mopar 4in kit.