2014 JKUR Lift Help
#11
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Anyone else have any ideas on TeraFlex or Rock Krawler? Haven't seen a single person vouch for them yet...
#12
JK Jedi
You are right, if a trail system is rated 1-5, I typically never do more than a 3. Your comment about sticking with what I have used before is well noted as well, I just keep reading so much about people saying to stay away from them. Honestly I can say 99% of the reason I want the lift is for the more aggressive look. Hate having a Rubicon and pulling up smaller than almost every jeep on the road around here... =D
#13
Super Moderator
I did some research on these and it looks like the 4" lift is hard to get and people had all sorts of issue's. Not sure if that all has been corrected yet or not... Also I didn't see it at the $1800 price point, more like 2.2k+
Anyone else have any ideas on TeraFlex or Rock Krawler? Haven't seen a single person vouch for them yet...
Anyone else have any ideas on TeraFlex or Rock Krawler? Haven't seen a single person vouch for them yet...
Here's some good prices on the 4in lift:
Genuine Mopar Parts for Chrysler Jeep Dodge RAM
OEM Part Number 77072353 from Jeep - moparpartsdiscounted
The last link is the price from an actual dealership when you purchase online. I order parts through them all the time and pick the parts up over the counter.
You'll be hard pressed in finding a premium 4in lift which includes a new driveshaft, replacement upper & lower rear control arms, front driveline with high steer kit in that price range, all engineered by the same company that engineered your Wrangler. It's up to you, just letting you know. I'm sure RK and TF lifts will seem great over the RC lift you previously had. I would just suggest comparing those lifts to the Mopar lift BOM vs BOM and figure out the items not included that comes in the Mopar lift, but you may eventually learn the benefits of needing those parts at a later time.
For the time being here's some info from Mopar which explains why the driveshaft replacment is important.
Originally Posted by Mopart
Q: Why do we need a driveshaft in the kit?
A: When the 3.6 engine was introduced, (2012) the exhaust routing ran the pipe directly under the front driveshaft. When a lift is installed, the driveshaft is lowered, hence it will rub on the exhaust pipe when the suspension drops away from the vehicle. This causes the protective boot on the driveshaft to wear and eventually tear apart, allowing contaminants to leak into the boot and causing the driveshaft slip feature to eventually fail. So far, aftermarket companies have made short spacers to lower the exhaust to fix the problem, but this is untested for emissions and looks like a poor solution. Previously we have used a limit strap to prevent the axle from dropping down too far, and while this will work, a flexible suspension ought to be flexible; the limit strap restricts flexibility. We address this problem the best way with a new, smaller diameter shaft, but it is more expensive. The cheaper kits let the driveshaft hit and don't address the issue satisfactorily.
A: When the 3.6 engine was introduced, (2012) the exhaust routing ran the pipe directly under the front driveshaft. When a lift is installed, the driveshaft is lowered, hence it will rub on the exhaust pipe when the suspension drops away from the vehicle. This causes the protective boot on the driveshaft to wear and eventually tear apart, allowing contaminants to leak into the boot and causing the driveshaft slip feature to eventually fail. So far, aftermarket companies have made short spacers to lower the exhaust to fix the problem, but this is untested for emissions and looks like a poor solution. Previously we have used a limit strap to prevent the axle from dropping down too far, and while this will work, a flexible suspension ought to be flexible; the limit strap restricts flexibility. We address this problem the best way with a new, smaller diameter shaft, but it is more expensive. The cheaper kits let the driveshaft hit and don't address the issue satisfactorily.
Last edited by Rednroll; 06-20-2016 at 06:12 PM.
#14
JK Enthusiast
I'm not singling this one out, just a basic Jeep observation.
#15
JK Jedi
The quote from mopart contains lots of inaccurate information. Lifting does not lower the driveshaft. It raises the upper mount and increases the driveline angle bringing it closer to the cross pipe, longer travel shocks or shocks that have been relocated with extensions on top will allow the axle to droop more then stock therefore causing the driveshaft to come into contact with the cross pipe. The exhaust spacer some people use will have no impact on emissions as it is just a reroute after the cats and sensors that control the emissions. If anything it would slightly decrease flow and increase back pressure. Limit straps do what they are designed to, limit you from damaging components due to constraints and should be installed to protect shocks from over extending in a proper set up. Installing a limit strap at the differential will still allow for individual wheel full droop at the shocks and will only limit a full axle droop that would only be encountered in a strait ledge drop off or when jumping the vehicle in the air. These things rarely happen. After market drive shafts are made from a smaller diameter tube which gives them more clearance to the cross pipe. For the life of me I don't understand why the factory uses such a large diameter tube for the driveshaft.
#16
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So with the Mopar kit containing a Front Driveshaft does that mean I would be able to safely run 37's? Or does that mean I still need to do a lot more things? I understand I would need to do smaller fenders because of the rubbing. Mainly more concerned with the Rear Driveshaft, and Rear End of the Jeep. I also need to get my build sheet today so I can see what gears I have in it since I have the auto. I see it could have the 3.73 or 4.10's. Not sure how much that will really matter just for 35's, but could be important for 37's? Assume I have to re-gear no matter what if I go to 37's?
Also, thanks for all the help and information so far guys!
Also, thanks for all the help and information so far guys!
#17
JK Enthusiast
The more you get now, the better you'll be when you upgrade. 35's are the upper end of what I'd run on stock gears, but you'll hear people chime in on how they're running 54" tires with stock gears, a D30 front, no lift, a stock 3.8, and it will kick anybody's ass up the trail. I love the internet.
I'd strongly suggest a regear for 37's, among other needed mods. Steering assist is a big one as well, although the guy I mentioned above doesn't even run power steering on his rig.
I'd strongly suggest a regear for 37's, among other needed mods. Steering assist is a big one as well, although the guy I mentioned above doesn't even run power steering on his rig.
#18
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Yeah, I figured as much. My 35's was in a manual and it wasn't too bad, but my friend did have a 10 Sahara Auto with 35's and his jeep drove a LOT differently than mine. Don't think he got the superchip flash thing or whatnot...
Also just got my build sheet and I do have the 4:10 gears option for the rear axle.
Also just got my build sheet and I do have the 4:10 gears option for the rear axle.
#19
JK Jedi
The driveshaft has nothing to do with running your tire size, it has to do with clearance for droop in the suspension to the exhaust cross pipe. There are ways to run 37's on the stock suspension and the stock driveshaft. I hope you got 4.10 gears in the new ride and you should be fine at 35" tires for what you do, the 4:1 transfer case for off road will save you from having to regear. 3.73 and 37's I would look into a reggae to 4.56 or 4.88.
#20
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Really surprised no one else has jumped in with a kit that I should get or a certain brand... When I had my older JKU lots of people would chime in on stuff... Really trying to figure out what I want here as before I had that 3.5" lift from RC and really liked the look and performance I got. So looking for the same look with height gain and better performance is a plus. If I don't hear anything in the next couple days I guess I will end up using RC again to save some money! =D