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33" tires no regearing vs 35" tires with regearing

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Old 11-06-2010, 06:45 PM
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Default 33" tires no regearing vs 35" tires with regearing

I need to pick your guys brains a little. I have a problem that I'm sure many on this forum have contemplated.

I have a 4 door JK Sahara with stock 3.73 gears. I use it as my daily driver (city and highway) 90% of the time and 10% off-road use. I'm basically looking for a more aggressive look but will time to time go on trails. The basic question boils down to the associated costs/utility of getting 35" tires over 33" tires.

1. If I go with 35" tires, I'm assuming I would need a 2" or 2.5" lift. In addition to the lift, I'm assuming I would have to regear from 3.73 to 5.13. My 4 door JK is an automatic. Is it overkill to pay more for 35"s than 33"s, more for the lift, and more for regearing (which I'm not sure what that costs) for my intended use???

2. If I go with 33" tires, I probably wound not need a lift and I probably would not need to regear.

I keep going back and forth. I've read no less than 200 threads on this but I'm trying to put it all together. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

BTW, thanks to all who helped with my bumper questions. I'll post pics when I install over the next week.
Old 11-06-2010, 07:11 PM
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I agree. I just installed a Rough Country 1.25" body lift and waiting on shocks to install a 2.5" spring spacer kit but i'm still going with 33".

I think the question is:

Is this your everyday routine driving vehicle that you may do some off roading once and a while or is it going to be a primary off road vehicle.

I use to have a Toyota 4x4 with 35's and it was my everyday truck and I hated the 35's. Dropped it to 33's and was a great happy medium for me. Comfortable ride and still great for off road.
Old 11-06-2010, 07:15 PM
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Default 33's

since you spend most of your time on the road id just swap tires to 275/70/18's
thats what i did. i have the 3:73 gears with the 6 sp and didnt notice any power loss
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Old 11-06-2010, 07:56 PM
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You're not fooling anyone. You already know you want the 35's, so quit trying to talk your self into a set of 33's that you know you will hate...


You can go to 35's with little to no lift, and add on later. (chop the flares, get rid of the plastic skid, bring in the steer stops, add wheel spacers or new rims with the correct BS, etc...) Get on 35's and build the lift as you go!

For the gears - yes, it will have a noticeable lack of power. Turn OD Off and you can live with it until you get the cash to re-gear. (some will try to tell you that the power will be fine, they are lying. But you can live with it for a while.)


Anyway, 33 or 35 is a preference. Decide which tires you want and go from there.
Old 11-06-2010, 08:11 PM
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I run a Leveling kit and 1'' Body lift with 35's Stock wheels require wheel spacers. Programer is highly suggested.

Power, if you dont do many hills O/D Off will do just fine. I run a Shara with 3.73 but a 6 speed here in colorado. I can get by without regearing for now but forget passing anyone uphill.
Old 11-06-2010, 08:28 PM
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Thats why i said if you dont do many hills as soon as you hit a good incline power will.... SUCK
Old 11-06-2010, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by blk08jkca
gotta call you out there is no comparison between a 2dr 6 speed and a 4dr

auto.. 4dr is 900lbs + hardtop/softop heavier and 6 speed is night n day over an auto

just trying to give him the straight scoop
Not that it is that big of a deal and I was kind of suprised at first, but the 4 door is only 300-400 pounds heavier than the 2 door. I am sure the auto vs. manual would be a bigger factor than the weight.
Old 11-07-2010, 03:59 AM
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Dont waste your money on 33's they are no bigger than the stockers. Go straight to 35's, run o/d off until you can afford gears, get a 2.5" lift.

You don't need to sleeve and gusset the front axle..

I have 66,000 miles on mine about half was running 35's, no issues. I put in 5.13's about 4,500 miles ago, great improvement, but again the 3.73's o/d off was tolerable
Old 11-07-2010, 05:29 AM
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I went with 33s and Spidertrax spacers...

Why? Simple... I have little need for a lift. I use my JK as a daily driver. My JK has a lifetime power train warranty, which I extended to the entire vehicle via service contract. Financially, there's zero incentive to screw up important (expensive) parts of this warranty. Our off roading is generally beaches and snow wheeling in the pine barrens. You can see my limited mods in my sigfile. I own the front axle, but can reinstall the factory set-up in an afternoon, should the need arise.

Because I drive this Jeep to work every day, I need reliability and reasonable economy. I have that. I can still get 23 to 24 mpg on the highway, 21 to 22 in the hills and mountains. In local driving, depending on the traffic volume, I get between 14.5 and 16 mpg.

At my age, I've moved beyond the heavily modded Jeep to something more useful and livable day to day. My CJ5 was extensively modded, my YJ less so. Nonetheless, I am considering the purchase of a friend's 2001 TJ, moderately modded (3" lift, 33s, etc) for weekend use. He bought a new Rubi and his TJ is languishing in the garage. With the desire to keep the JK for many years, this option is looking better and better.

35" tires require additional mods. This is the common cascade effect. Aside from the cash outlay, your warranty becomes a real issue. Moreover, economy is effected. You have to determine what you need vs what you want and go with what best meets realistic needs.
Old 11-07-2010, 06:12 AM
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Hey Neighbor... I think I've seen you around town. I'm in North Coventry off 100 and drive my '07 Grey JK Rubicon as a daily driver as well.

Let me start off by saying any modification you make is going to have some affect (good or bad) on driveability and performance. You will probably notice a difference even with 33's it's just more liveable with your current 3.73 gears than 35's. I've was on 33's for the last two years on Rubi 4.10 gears on my 6 speed and the performace was just fine for a daily driver, tow vehicle and off-road rig. Now that I no longer tow with the JK I'm running 35's I think it's a much better fit on the 4-door in terms of looks than 33's and for me the driveability is still fine with 4.10 gears so re-gearing is not an immediate need for me. Now with an automatic however you'll probably want to re-gear to 5.13.

As far as the lift required to accommodate 35's you could keep it reasonable with a Teraflex 2.5" BB with shock extensions for a few hundred dollars and my mechanic here in Pottstown has installed several of these or you could do it yourself with the right tools. If you plan on keeping your stock wheels you'll need wheel spacers for the 33's or 35's.

In my opinion, the 33's on the 4-door with no lift may end up looking stock-ish. With a BB and 33's it would give the Jeep a more aggressive look. 35's will really finish off the look but you'll need to consider the re-gear, maybe a programmer and a spare tire carrier at that point. That being said...one of the hardest things when modding is doing things in baby steps to keep it affordable then realizing you want to take it to the next step...but that part of the whole Jeep thing I guess. So do what you can afford right now and if you can swing it right away go with the 35's and the lift ... cause that's what you'll be wanting after running 33's for awhile.

Good Luck and if you see me on the road in Chester County ...


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