Mavicpilot2016

So hello there friends . My post count is low, but if its okay, I was going to jump right in. I am needing some help regarding the direction to go to significantly improve my highway commute.

I am running a "Heavy" 14 JKU and commute about 70 miles a day. I built the jeep about two years ago with the following;

1. Rock crawler extreme 3.5 (all upper and lower adjustable, front and rear track bars, RK rear Track relocation bracket.)
2. Bilstein 5100's
3. Synergy Tie rod and drag link with flip.
4. 37/13.5 Toyo MT running at 28 psi. (any less and i get a weird sidewall sway in the Texas wind)
5. I purchased Metal Cloak geometry correction brackets, but haven't installed them yet (hopefully this weekend)

The jeep is heavy, EVO rear carrier, Rock skins, Poison spyder Brawler F/R, Poison Spyder Crusher flares F/R, Winch, High-Lift and my super cool smittybilt steps (Swapped out soon)




Here is my quandary. From what i have read, everyone like the 5100's. From what my kidneys say, the jarring ride of the 5100's isn't working for me. So here is where I am at, and if this is ignorant.... Please let me know..
(Ill expand a little) The Jarring ride over asphalt that is rippled will almost throw me into the ditch at any speed. The big pot holes will actually knock my Traildash mount loose from the windshield.


1. EVO (or other) BOLT on coil-over kit Front and Rear to ditch the 5100's and the Rock Krawler coils. (this will help me rake rake the rear a little to get the squat out)

• From what i have read and searched, Coil-over ride is hard to beat. But is it really?

2. Fox or King adjustable shocks running with my RK 3.5 progressive coils (This wont help me get the squat up but from what i have searched, should yield substantial results over the 5100's)

• I am not, nor ever will be flying down washboard roads such as desert racing. I am wondering if the adjust-ability is really relevant on road? Can it be adjusted to soak of the small pits and holes in the highway?

So the question will be, what is the primary use? I commute this rig daily so I am looking for the best absolute ride on the road. Meaning the following (Wind sway resistance " body roll", washboard highway jitters reduced, hard pothole absorption... Texas roads suck....
When i wheel, It would be expedition style through the woods, washouts, small rocks and creek beds.



From a cost perspective, I have been saving a big chunk of change so i can hopefully remedy this on road ride. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ripa777

I run 3.5 MC GC w King 2.5's. Better ride than stock!! Runs straight as an arrow @90mph down fwy. Soaks up speed bumps and on road bumps like they aren't even there. Great handling around corners w min to no body roll.... all with incredible off road capabilities... I'm heavy too... 6400# on landfill scale

Mavicpilot2016

Any idea what the difference between the RK progressive and the Game changer coils are? Do you think it's mostly shocks?

jjt310

I am running the 3.5 X factor with 37 cooper stt pro with fox shocks as a daily driver and the ride is great. After I installed wheel spacers because the 37's were hitting the control arms I did notice it slightly changed the suspension ride and I could feel the potholes more but not that bad. You are also running a wide 37.

Mavicpilot2016

I

I agree, when i swap I'm thinking of going to the bfg km2's, in a 12.5. I had them on my power wagon and they were a good tire. I'm really curious if anyone suggests the coilover vs a good set of shocks like king or fix adjustable

nthinuf

I thought the 5100's were stiff also. Replaced them with the OME long-travel shocks that MetalCloak used to suggest, and am much happier with the ride. Not cadilac plush, but no complaints, and haven't seen the need to look into more expensive options. (similar to your setup - 37" sst pro's, MC 3.5" coils, MC arms, synergy flip, ca drop brackets).

jjt310

I had the km2 in the past and the the cooper stt pro rides way smoother

BuckLisa

If you put the correction brackets on; your RK arms will be too long. The lowers are longer than stock at their shortest so it can cause driveshaft issues.

BoraBora

Do you have the old RK coils or the new ones? When'd you buy them?

My JK rides substantially better than both of my buddies. They both have the 5100's, one has the older Rock Krawler coils (what I suspect you have) and the other has Rubicon Express coils.

"Better" is such a subjective term so I'll actually explain what I mean, unlike most people who go "my ride is better than stock!!!": girls enjoy the ride because it doesn't knock their tits around too much and make them ache, my coffee doesn't spill when I hit a pothole, I can adjust the ride depending on what I'm doing, and I don't fear road imperfections.

That being said, my ride is also adjustable; I run the new Rock Krawler coils, paired with Rancho 9000XL's (by far the best shock I've ever used, and cheap enough). If I'm hitting the highway and want that stable feel that the Bilsteins and Fox shocks provide, I simply crank the Rancho shocks up to 6 or 7 (they adjust 1-9). It tracks straight as an arrow and corners like BMW 335i. If I'm driving into DC (notoriously crap roads with random patches of road work), I turn the shocks down to 3 or 4 and it is incredibly plush.

Based on what you describe now, you should give the new RK coils and Rancho 9000's a shot. I don't know why people come on here recommending some extremely expensive King or Fox bypass shocks, as if more expensive = better. Those shocks have a purpose, but based on what you described you don't need them (you're not running rough roads fast are you? If you are I hope your axles are beefed up). Those flashy King and Fox shocks will also require more maintenance, and tuning to match your coils. If you wheel some big rocks and your shocks are mounted anywhere near the stock positions, expect to bang them up too. I've destroyed 2 pairs of rear shocks playing in rock gardens. The Ranchos are $100 a shock so I don't care. Plus they have a rebate going on right now (buy 3 get 1 free I believe) and if you decide they're not for you, you have 90 days to return them no questions asked. For that reason alone, it won't cost you anything to give them a shot.

Coilovers will also require tuning and more maintenance to get the ride you want. I'd love coilovers one day, but so far my set up hasn't left me asking for more. It goes where I need it to go, and the ride is perfect. My buddies hate driving their Jeeps...while I don't.

Should also note my personal opinion on coilovers: if you're going to run them, screw any bolt-on kits. The EVO kit is a 12" travel coilover ...for the money, you could do so much better. If going the C/O route, have them set up by a shop who knows what they're doing: welding in new towers/mounts, charging/tuning them to what you want, and for the love of god...do not run a 12" C/O. My Rancho shocks are 11.7 or 11.8" of travel. The gain is so marginal for the fat price tag you're paying. You're really just paying to say "hey I have C/O's, please respect me." Bolt-on C/O's = bling...in the exact same category as flashy steering stabilizers (Fox ATS) and a million LED lights.

Just trying to save you the headache of being unhappy with your next purchase.

Cheers.

Mavicpilot2016

Really?? I would have never guessed that, I always associated the Coopers with 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks around here. I always assumed they were hard/higher ply. But great to know!