larry0071

I have a Ruff Stuff DIY Tie Rod on my JK and I am done with using it. It never bent, but I just don't like it for a few reasons. I would like to get a new and better tie rod with enough clearance (offset forward) to clear my ram assist clamp from contacting the ProRock 44U cover. I know that the Ruff Stuff DOM with GM 1-ton offset tie rod ends would not clear, I had to throw the DOM into a pipe bender and put bends in each end to create clearance.

I really don't feel that I need aftermarket knuckles, if anything I would look for used knuckles if I were to find that my 7/8" drilled TRE holes are screwing me up here.

What are the best options for a Tie Rod for my JK on 37" tires, I typically play with black/red trails at Rausch Creek, I also daily drive the Jeep in the summers and put 10K-12K miles on it per year. I'll need a new ram assist clamp if I go bigger than 1.5" OD, that is what the Ruff Stuff DOM is that my clamp is on now. Going bigger and needing a clamp is not a deterent, it's just another little thing I would need.

I would especially like to hear from DirtMan on this since I would assume that he has put his hands on more than a few various TR offerings out there.

I don't see that the Fusion or the RPM Fab will work with the 7/8" holes... but maybe I am missing it?

TheDirtman

I have run the currie and would not recommend it, I have a dynatrac tie rod on a pr60 in my parts pile I can measure for you. I am not sure you are going to find one that pushes it out much farther. Maybe you can relocate the ram bracket so you are not hitting the diff cover.

Monte417

I run a synergy with the low misalignment boots and my tie rod clamp kisses the psc diff cover. A little grinding and it's all good

PsychoCupcake

You are correct that the Fusion 2.5 Ton steering ends don't require drilling because they are the JK taper, rather than being drilled out for the GM one ton ends. IF you can find some stock knuckles and can go back to the JK taper, Fusion does offer a tie rod that has greater offset (it is for the UD60). However, their 2.5 Ton steering already has offset ends, which should give you plenty of room to clear the clamp for PSC. Plenty of people are running that setup.

But I do understand your predicament. I actually just sent my stock knuckles to Fusion to use for some test fitting scenarios. Maybe you can find some. Otherwise... you COULD weld in the holes, right? And re-drill?

Just some ideas.

Personally, I've not seen Synergy tie rods hold up well to hydro assist.

Monte417

Mine has held up going on 4 seasons now. Pretty sure I run the same trails you do at rausch. Does it flex? Yep but has not bent or broken and turns fine with hydro both locked and unlocked

DJ1

I upgraded to the Yeti XD and got a larger 1.625 clamp. Ends do not flop so everything will be ready for hydro-assist. Paired it with the Yeti XD drag link. They are so much more beefier than the Synergy tie rod and stock drag link I had.


Will be keeping the Synergy tie rod as a trail spare but still run the Synergy track bar.




.

PsychoCupcake

I have seen the Synergy tie rod permanently bend after a straight on hit from a rock. Not just once but several times. Not hydro assist related. I have seen it flex quite a bit from hydro and once I have seen it permanently deform. I do think a poor setup was to blame in that situation. I'm not knocking their product. It's no different than any other chromoly tie rod on the market. I just think there are better options out there, especially for those running hydro assist.

jedg

Perhaps instead of using a clamp you could use weld-on tabs. That would get rid of the 1/4 inch of clamp space.

larry0071

I had considered that with the Ruff Stuff (just standard DOM tube) but what I am not familiar with is the effect of welding to a non standard steel and the grain effects in the heat effected zone and subsequent alloy created in the weld area. I'll need to speak with a weld engineer (I work at a nuclear plant in the engineering group, so we have 40 engineer specialists on this floor) and see what he thinks of this as an idea. The clamp is nice because you can easily remove or loosen for adjustment or removal. Overall, the clamp is a better way to go... but it does bring with it the added space requirement of adding diameter.

So do none of the improved tie rod options that are out there use a 7/8" hole?

If any of you have a set of OEM knuckles that your willing to sell, I would love to hear it. I hate to pay $125 (Dorman) each for them from Rock Auto :-(

If I am going to drop $250 on OEM, I may as well bite the bullet and go all-in on Rancho knuckles and do a high steer. I have just not really felt the need for a high steer and so never considered the cost to be worth the while for my height.

PsychoCupcake

Keep in mind, too, that if you weld to the tie rod tube, you are committed to a fixed position of the ram mounting tab/bracket relative to where you currently have your toe set. IF you do happen to bend the tie rod slightly and need to adjust toe in or out, that means those tabs now rotate with the tube, which could put your ram in a less than ideal location.

I can tell you from experience that going to high steer really does improve the on road handling at 3.5" of lift. Bumpsteer is greatly reduced. If it were me, I'd get the Rancho knuckles. Aside from the high steer benefit, you'll also move the tie rod up about an inch and a half, which is always a good thing for wheeling.