Go out to Tom Woods website, he has a bunch of info including a few pics of the angles you want. Stock driveshaft, pinion roughly parallel to the tcase output. Double cardan, pinion pointed at the tcase output (inline with the driveshaft). Up front, there is a compromise between caster and pinion.

 

yea ive read a bunch of those. seems like ideal is 0* but im trying to convince myself that mine is close enough to zero so i dont need to buy adjustable rear upper arms.

 

Why in the world would you replace a drive shaft with true CV joints on each end with a shaft that has a pseudo-CV (double Cardin) on one end and a standard U-joint (single Cardin) on the other? Unless you are going to be bouncing your drive shaft off rocks or you have already damaged your stock drive shaft, there is absolutely no reason to change it. There is absolutely no drive shaft design better for high speed driving (least vibration and wear) than the CV joint.

If you do drive primarily off road and especially over rocks, then by all means, change to an after-market unit designed for those conditions. Just remember, you can't juggle Jell-O. An improvement in one characteristic will result at the cost of another.

 

yes i realize that. it's already terrible on the highway and i do not daily drive it. i've put about 2000 miles on it this past year so yea. i want something stronger that can be easily replaced. like a double cardan 1310 driveshaft.

i've tossed the idea of just running a stock shaft and finding a take-off somewhere but with that comes the issue of fitment. no body knows if a 6spd shaft is interchangeable with an auto, or if one from a rubicon is interchangeable with a non rubicon. so as far as replacement goes, it's still easier to just get a 1310 driveshaft.

yes i do love the Rzeppa CV on these and i wish they were serviceable.

 

You can find rebuild kits on quadratec. And some people have had luck with squirting grease in with a needle.

 

but even if i can rebuild it, it's not a part thats easily found. whole point of me wanting to go with a 1310 shaft is easy replacement and repair

 

find it odd that i need to explain why i would like to replace my stock shaft. but here you go. yes i bounce my jk off rocks a lot. I know the purpose of the Rzeppa joint and why it's great for daily driving, that being said, i know the purpose of having a 1310 driveshaft

 

Well it sounds like you've already made your mind up. Go with a aftermarket Shaft heck it's your Rig.

 

i originally had my mind made up already. the only thing left was to decide if i needed rear upper arms with my current pinion angle

 

We have a JK with the almost identical set-up. We've used it primarily for testing our JK ProGrip brakes, but it has wheedled quite a bit. The CV's are very tolerant of angle deviation. I totally get the on-trail repairability of the old-school u-joints. The Tom Woods guidelines will have to be implemented if you go to the 1310 Dshafts. So plan on at least one set of adjustable control arms in the rear. I would consider the lowers, because you may be able to better set the axle position (a little back) to compensate for your lift, as well as the pinion angle.

FYI - We are still running the stock driveshaft in the rear of that JK.

Thanks for running the Dynatrac Ball Joints. We deeply appreciate your recommendation to others.