jedg

Okay... so read the other thread... perhaps you're correct.

Also, FWIW, I'm running an L96 6.0L w/ 6L80 and Atlas II with Adams driveshafts... front is 1310 and rear is 1350. As Dirtman said, there is more maintenance related to moving to this DS. The CV joint has a grease fitting (uses a needle type fitting) that I grease in the spring and fall. It requires dropping the DS in order to get the CV to an angle where I can get to the fitting. Not a bit deal though.

Rednroll

Full disclosure. I also noticed a gear oil leak from around the pinion of my front axle, which seems to indicate I need a pinion gasket seal replacement which from my current understanding isn't a simple job to replace. I'm overdue in checking the level of my front differential gear oil. I went to do it last fall, and found I was out of gear oil(in the garage) and haven't gotten around to picking some up. So that's my other suspicion of the creaking sound while in 4WD, maybe the front differential.

Rednroll

Thanks, that was actually my next question of trying to understand what the additional maintenance would be. I was originally speculating, that it may be the shaft where it expands/collapses since it doesn't have a rubber boot to keep dirt out like the factory DS.

jedg

oops... yes, there's a grease fitting on the actual shaft as well. That one I do when I do the others on the suspension when I change my oil.

resharp001

Just replaced myself. This isn't a big deal, nothing to be scared of.....but if you're going to be replacing DS, just do it then.

Remove DS, mark location or pinion nut/pinion with paint pen, remove nut. Remove flange/yoke (borrow/rent a jaw puller from auto store). Pull old seal ($7 seal puller from HF). Bit of RTV on lip of new seal, tap in place, reassemble. Red loctite pinion nut and get it back to where it was.

If you have a puller and don't have to waste time pulling the flange/yoke with tap/tap from behind, should be 30 min job.

resharp001

Threw their 1350 on mine last weekend cuz got a smokin deal....i noted that zerk as looking fun when I installed.

jedg

Yup... with the puller it really is a 30 minute job.

Rednroll

Taking into consideration, I'm pretty bad at regular maintenance and tend to lean towards maintenance free parts. Is there a boot I should consider purchasing as well for the shaft portion? Like I mentioned, I play in sand and getting sand in that shaft grease fitting sounds like a recipe for early failure.

I guess I'll go ahead and ask as well, should I consider a different DS other than the Adam's that may provide me an easier maintenance of greasing the joints without having to pull the DS to do so?

TheDirtman

Driveshafts are all basically the same thing. You buy parts from spicer and assemble and balance it. This is what Tom Woods, Adams, JL Reel all do. You get different mounting options depending on what you want on the axle and transfer case. IF you don't want the maintence and don't ned the extra clearance the aftermarket shafts offer run the factory shaft. It is actually a better design and runs smoother and truer. Drawback is the limited angles (you can buy a high angle replacement joint) and clearance due to the large diameter driveshaft.

resharp001

I think all the aftermarket shafts are exposed at the splines. The only reason the boot is there on the factory is cuz it’s not greasable. Also, all the aftermarket shafts gonna be about the same in regards to servicing. You’re gonna have to hit the BJs every now and then, so the DS is just another item to hit at that time. Hitting the zerk at the splines is nbd at all. Adam’s does have the front 1310 with solid u-joint as mentioned before. That just leaves you the one zerk at the splines which is easy to get. Drive shafts are nothing fancy as far as brands go IMO….just find one that fits your budget. Nothing wrong going local driveline shop even if it’s cheaper.