TheDirtman

as far as sand in the splines you simply grease it after being in the sand and it pushes the debris out. Not really that hard a thing to do. You don't have to pull the DS to grease the splines.

Rednroll

Thanks for the additional details. Greasing splines, ball joints, and U-Joints isn't a major maintenance concern for me, as long as I know it needs to be done and identify what should be done, where I would likely just talk to the shop that does my oil changes and have them charge me a few extra bucks to do those while they're greasing my other steering joints. The part where I have to undo the DS to be able to lube those joints is what concerns me the most. So if there's a DS that I can grease those joints without having to unfasten it, that would work for me best. I just know I would likely put off taking off the DS bolts to grease the joints, and this is also something I couldn't expect the oil change place to do, to grease those joints.

I already struggle in remembering to grease my front aftermarket LCA joints twice a year, where I don't even need to drop the arms to do so.

Rednroll

Just a follow up on this, since I missed it the 1st time but found the difference as I was shopping around and noticed what looked like the same part but a $25 difference. I found out the price difference was that one came with the greasable U-Joints and the other ($25 more) came with the Solid U-Joints. So if I got the solids I could not have to be concerned with my lack of maintenance of needed to grease the U-Joints if I got the solid U-Joints?

The solids sound like it would fit me better, is there a down side to the solid vs greaseable?

I'm going to speculate and say life expectancy?

If I decide I don't like the solids and it comes time to replace, can I replace the solids with the greaseable?

Right now I'm considering the Adams 1310 CV with solid joints, and then see about purchasing a boot to cover the splines may be my preferred path. My thought is the boot would help keep the dirt/sand out of the spines and I could reduce the amount of required spline greasing.

jedg

Pretty sure you still have to grease the double cardin. (the area that I said has the needle adapter)... and the shaft itself.

resharp001

Yes, now, the good news is the solid joints cut the greaseable areas by 50%....how bout da? just saved you 50% work. Unfortunately...the bitch is still the CV joint. This is going to be one of those things there is not great solution on. If you weren't pondering the idea of an engine swap later, you'd probably be a decent candidate for sticking with factory shaft and replacing the joint. I wouldn't think that would hold with an engine swap though.

I have read a few things on non-greaseable CV joints for aftermarket 1310 that you'd just replace every now and then.....but very little. No real thought put in to if that any better of an option. Seems like one of those things that should be lubed.

Rednroll

That was the part I was hoping to avoid, so there goes that thought.

Thanks!

resharp001

That 3.8L has been good to you. When it goes, just drop another one in there for cheap.....solves a lot of future build issues like this. I don't see a factory shaft holding up to an LS or Hemi swap, and this is just going to be the life of living with an aftermarket DS. It's not the greasing that is so bad......as it is dropping the skids just to get to access things that is aggravating.

Rednroll

Not to doubt any advise but you guys may know, I enjoy learning about things I tend to know very little about and often will seek additional educational resources.

So I found "my guy" on Youtube in regards to differences in U-Joints. He's no barrel of laughs like the Pabst Boys, but seemed to have some good stuff to share on U-Joints. I've decided to go with the Solid/Non Greaseable U-Joints. It's not so much about the maintenance, but more so is that it seems to be a better design overall to ensure they last longer.

If interested jump to about 15:00 and listen through 21:50, to see what he has to say on the factory solid type vs. the aftermarket greaseable.

TheDirtman

Actually the factory driveshaft is a better design, stronger, no maintenance, and will last a good long time. Big diameter for clearance is the only really issue if you are running more then a 10" travel shock.

resharp001

Obviously a lot depends on usage......but I've seen a couple factory shafts (rear) twist at the splines on the trails. I've yet to see even a 1310 do that......but you've been in the game and around a lot longer. I definitely agree with the factory being no maintenance (till it craps out), but are you referencing the joints in particular as being stronger, or the overall shaft itself?