TheDirtman

The joint is stronger in its full range of motion. It is basically the same thing as the joint RCV uses in their axle shafts. A u-joint's strength decreases with angle where the ball and cage will not. The factory tubes are huge compared to after market shafts. Bigger tube = more strength. I have seen factory shafts fail because of abuse but I have seen far more after market shafts fail and they are far from bullet proof. Improper axle gearing is at the biggest breaker of shafts that I have seen which causes more stress on the drivetrain and typically makes people have to take on obstacles at speed so the motor won't bog down. I would avoid after market driveshafts if at all possible unless you need them for long travel. Redroll just has this idea in his head an aftermarket driveshaft is better then the factory which in most cases, and I would include his use with his jeep, is incorrect. Its his jeep and money though so....

Rednroll

Here are the reasons I'm leaning towards an aftermarket DS, please feel free to set me straight since there's many things about them I don't fully understand.

1. Double Cardan design, and knowing that CV at the T-case side connection is going to fail me eventually.

2. More flex with improved drive train connection angles.

3. Fix my current U joint creaks.

4. Learn more about drive shafts.

Reasons I don't like the AM DS.

1. Special continued maintenance.
2. Open splines that let dirt/sand into the grease/splines.

My uses are forest trails and fields, climb over downed tree, moist dark soil stuff. Think Michigan hunting, fishing, camping stuff, that's me.
Snow, love playing in it.
Sand/Shallow water, Silver Lake Sand Dunes. No rocks/canyons, climbing rock cliffs for me. Nothing too dangerous where I feel there's a risk of roll over. 98% DD, weekend warrior, vacation fun/adventures.

resharp001

For the sake of just provoking thought, I'm curious if Dirtman has any comments for or against a sealed/non-greasable centering yoke like you can buy on Dennysdriveshaft.com. There was a thread on jkowners a couple years back and those got brought up.

jedg

So I'll play along... first, I'll say I'm in Dirtman's camp on this. I believe in not making changes (note I didn't say upgrade, because that's really subjective if something is an upgrade) unless you NEED the change.


1. Double Cardan design, and knowing that CV at the T-case side connection is going to fail me eventually.
-- That double cardan can fail too. Especially if you don't pull regular maintenance on it. The Rzeppa does a great job and is maintenance free. Both have a life expectancy. Maybe the DC will last longer than the Rzeppa, but I think it comes with a higher maintenance cost for that longer life expectancy.

2. More flex with improved drive train connection angles.
-- You have 2" of lift, I think I'm safe to say that the OEM driveshafts aren't a problem. If you really want to be sure, find some time to flex your jeep out... full droop driver w/ full compress passenger... then full droop passenger with full compress driver.. then full droop driver and passenger at the same time.... watch for points of contact.. I'm betting you'll find that the driveshaft is good but your shocks or tires will be an issue first.

3. Fix my current U joint creaks.
-- You can have that same U joint creak with the 'traditional' driveshaft too once it wears out.

4. Learn more about drive shafts.
-- I could be wrong, but I think you could rebuild your current driveshaft... replace the bad u-joint and replace the Rzeppa with the one that Teraflex makes..

All that said, I'm running Adams driveshafts... but that's because I've got 11.5" of shock travel which caused the front DS to contact my skids and tore the boot that protects the Rzeppa joint.

Rednroll

Thanks for the follow-up responses jedg. I had considered the TF Rzeppa previously. My take away was it seemed more difficult to install, compared to changing out the entire shaft, it cost $150, then add the cost of the U-Joint on top of that which puts me around $200. I can get the Adam's driveshaft for $400-$450 and seemed like a better solution overall to pursue.

Mr.T

+1 for using an OEM shaft unless shock travel is too much for it. Maybe the shaft isn't the noise source? Doesn't take long to remove the shaft, and if you haven't already, I'd remove the shaft and inspect it. Feel for excess play and rough-notchy areas as the joints are moved. Granted it might pass inspection and still have an obscure problem, but in the opposite case you'll know it's ready for replacement. No need to put it back in if it's replacement time, so the time isn't wasted.

karls10jk

OEM shafts are cheap and last a long while. I had a clunk with the Teflon being gone on the slip portion. I replaced it with another OEM and it's back to silent. I did rebuild my rear ds with the TF on both ends and I don't have any complaints on it. Follow the directions and run. The only thing you may run into is that the auto rubs the driveshaft before the manual does.

That being said- I've got extra travel from a combo of longer shocks and metalcloak relo brackets and I'm not contacting things- 2.5" metalcloak and 6 speed (may be the silver bullet, the reason I'm not rubbing).

Wrangeler X

You don't need the 1350 with your current axles. And if you go to 60's you will need to a shorter DS then anyway. Get the 1310 and if you need the yoke just get it from Adams and be done. You not going to save much going somewhere else for the yoke.