karls10jk

Yep, it makes for quick inspections. It's something I should have done.....and may still do.

Chuck-The-Ripper

Call my crazy but I get them as tight as I can with the joints centered and then put a couple tack welds on each jamnut/arm. When I go to readjust it takes about 5 seconds with a grinder and it's good to go.

PsychoCupcake

Not crazy. In fact a lot of people do that from what I understand.

kjeeper10

Thought about that, at least the lowers. Locked in place use the uppers to adjust caster/pinion.

Chuck-The-Ripper

Good. I've never heard anyone doing it. I told RK that and they sounded shocked. I didn't feel it being much different than tacking u-joint caps, lol.

kjeeper10

Theyre prob thinking the tack was going to replace 300 ft lbs of torque lol

matt852

Is there a certain sequence to follow front lowers first then front uppers, is is same for the rear? Lowers first then uppers. Had a shop try to do it for me, they didn't do it right as I ended up with 2 deg positive caster and the shop wouldn't stand behind their work

Chuck-The-Ripper

Typically you want to set your wheelbase with the losers and use the uppers to adjust castor/pinion.

matt852

is it lowers for both for the wheelbase I heard the rear uppers were for wheel base?

kjeeper10

Who you calling a loser? Lol


Correct, decide and set your wheelbase with lowers. I prefer to install the lowers, ensure axles are parallel and square, then hold pinion angle where you want it and adjust the uppers to the mount locations. Torque before dropping the jack. Front you can do easily with the tires on the ground. Rear will need to be on stands with tires removed to gain access to the uppers.

The lowers locate the axles so the settings of each arm are more important. Uppers lengths dont matter as much, setting to the mounts so all 4 bolts slide in/out ensures theres no binding or preload.