View Poll Results: Bags or coils?
Voters: 44. You may not vote on this poll
Airock or Coils?
I can't believe it, but the Airock is on the short list of systems for my JK unltd.
Co$$t aside, can anyone tell me why I shouldn't do it? If I go standard coils, I won't go more than 4" and 35's. (local laws, etc).
Specifically, what are the pros and cons on the trail?
PLEASE don't include the $$ in your opinion. In real life, the co$t DOES matter, but I'm fairly good at math and can make that part of the decision myself. I really want real-world opinions of people who use their jeeps for what they're made for.
If I don't go w/Airock, I'll probably do Rubicon Express or Clayton 3.5"
Co$$t aside, can anyone tell me why I shouldn't do it? If I go standard coils, I won't go more than 4" and 35's. (local laws, etc).
Specifically, what are the pros and cons on the trail?
PLEASE don't include the $$ in your opinion. In real life, the co$t DOES matter, but I'm fairly good at math and can make that part of the decision myself. I really want real-world opinions of people who use their jeeps for what they're made for.
If I don't go w/Airock, I'll probably do Rubicon Express or Clayton 3.5"
Yes, you can always replace the arms, too, but ORO says they designed everything to work w/stock components. I wouldn't want to change the geometry of the Airock system, just go w/beefier steel.
Also, even though I said money isn't part of the decision, I can't imagine spending $5500 + labor on the Airock, then going back to the Accounting Department to ask for even more!
She's a great supporter, but that might be asking a bit much!
You said "cost aside", so here's my opinion: Airock along with a long-arm system. Airock alone won't give you all of the advantages that a lon-arm system affords. A long-arm system alone wont give you all of the advantages of the Airock alone. So, if cost isn't the limiting factor, do both. Have fun.
It's just airbags - if your running larger than stock tires your always going to be higher than stock and thus the geometry would be best suited to your central position with longer arms, else you will have shortened your wheelbase. Larger tires really do need longer than stock arms.
So are the arms in the Clayton 3.5" longer than stock, or would I want to go longer later? The quality / sturdiness of Clayton's stuff is unquestionable, so I'd do that over RE short, but why not just go long first? Long on a JK seems like overkill, but I did ask about $5500 funbags.
(
- that's a different thread
)
I do trails in the northeast rated 3-7 (out of 10), but will tackle more when I lift. There isn't a lot of off-camber stuff, though, so that negates one of the Airock's big advantages.
To me, the Airock's appeal is on the road - the ability to lower down to a road height that will fit the 35"s, even though they would stuff during articulation at that height. Also, I spend a fair amount of time on the highway, so riding on marshmallows is appealing.
Mass has lift-laws, and although a lot of guys get away w/stuff, I don't want to push my luck. With this, I could drive around completely legal, then go up on the trail.
I should (and will) call Clayton again for more details.
Thanks Dan.
If you pay close attention to your trackbar and steering geometry, use quality adjustable shocks(MX6/RS9000), and build it right, you can get just as nice of a ride on coils. Also much more cost effective and less things to go wrong.
I know why you want AiRock. It's the same reasons I wanted it. It's neat, cool, blingy, soft, adjustable...
But I've built many street-friendly rock crawlers with up to 40" tires. If you build it right, you won't need to make adjustments other than locking in the sway bars and maybe dialing up the shocks.
This Jeep ended up with Dana 60's, 39.5" PittBulls, and went 80mph down the freeway with NO steering stabilizer! GEOMETRY is the key!!


I know why you want AiRock. It's the same reasons I wanted it. It's neat, cool, blingy, soft, adjustable...
But I've built many street-friendly rock crawlers with up to 40" tires. If you build it right, you won't need to make adjustments other than locking in the sway bars and maybe dialing up the shocks.
This Jeep ended up with Dana 60's, 39.5" PittBulls, and went 80mph down the freeway with NO steering stabilizer! GEOMETRY is the key!!


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Another benefit of the Airock is the ability to easily adjust the ride height as you make changes to your ride. Tires, bumpers, winches, hoods, etc. etc. Not to mention you will also have a very nice on board air system with the JK setup
do you have a 4 door? if so why do you want a long are kit? I have talked to many people 4x4/lift experts and all have told me long arms on a 4 door is not needed. I have 4" superlift and my ramp score is 7.75 and i'm told that is very good. there were few other jks at the same show with different set that didn't come anywhere near.
do you have a 4 door? if so why do you want a long arm kit? I have talked to many people 4x4/lift experts and all have told me long arms on a 4 door is not needed. I have 4" superlift and my ramp score is 7.75 and i'm told that is very good. there were few other jks at the same show with different set that didn't come anywhere near.
I agree - a short arm kit should get me all the rock and ramp performance I need, but if I'm contemplating $5500 plus labor for Airock, I figured I'd leave long arms on the poll.
Also, I get the impression that longer arms (and everything that go w/them) will allow you more control and tuning of the on-road ride. Maybe I'm wrong.

















