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-   -   Am i crazy. (https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/am-i-crazy-244475/)

jkd3624 08-17-2012 06:39 AM

Am i crazy.
 
So I drive an hour and half each direction to work everyday. So a total of three hours a day driving my jeep. I have 3.21 open diffs front and back and I change tires sizes from 33's to 35's depending if I am trail riding or not. I have a standard shift 2010 so it is the 3.8l. No I dot mind the performance I get with the 3.21 gears. I get great gas mpg and that is what I like because of how much I drive that is what is key for me. And for the next probably four to five years 35's are going to be my. Max tire size and this will be my daily driver.

Here is what I am looking and and wanted input on. I have a chance to buy a set of a axles d30 and d44 they come with everything I need to put them under my jeep to include a axle truss for the d30 new up graded diff covers. Limited slip diff and 3.73 gear ratio and I would buy an e locker for the the front. And to help with crawling gears I would buy either the rubicrawler kit or an atlas 2 transfer case so I could have crawling gears and then when I do upgrade my front axle when I do go to bigger tires I will have a better transfer case already then. This will give me a complete set of extra axle shafts if anything ever happened as well. So the price on these are an awesome deal. But I have friends who have said its a great plan and others who have large built up rigs that they aren't their daily driver who say no go 4.88's and do arb lockers and really don't understand money and mpg are a big concern for me. So is my line of thinking on this a good plan or no? Please give your input.

SCMatt 08-17-2012 06:49 AM


Originally Posted by jkd3624 (Post 3166721)
So I drive an hour and half each direction to work everyday. So a total of three hours a day driving my jeep. I have 3.21 open diffs front and back and I change tires sizes from 33's to 35's depending if I am trail riding or not. I have a standard shift 2010 so it is the 3.8l. No I dot mind the performance I get with the 3.21 gears. I get great gas mpg and that is what I like because of how much I drive that is what is key for me. And for the next probably four to five years 35's are going to be my. Max tire size and this will be my daily driver.

Here is what I am looking and and wanted input on. I have a chance to buy a set of a axles d30 and d44 they come with everything I need to put them under my jeep to include a axle truss for the d30 new up graded diff covers. Limited slip diff and 3.73 gear ratio and I would buy an e locker for the the front. And to help with crawling gears I would buy either the rubicrawler kit or an atlas 2 transfer case so I could have crawling gears and then when I do upgrade my front axle when I do go to bigger tires I will have a better transfer case already then. This will give me a complete set of extra axle shafts if anything ever happened as well. So the price on these are an awesome deal. But I have friends who have said its a great plan and others who have large built up rigs that they aren't their daily driver who say no go 4.88's and do arb lockers and really don't understand money and mpg are a big concern for me. So is my line of thinking on this a good plan or no? Please give your input.

depends on how much money they want for them I guess and if you can afford it and think it's right for you. From the sounds of things if money is a big concern and this is your DD and you are fine with the gears you have and the mileage you are getting, why spend the money on new axles at all? Besides what axles do you have now? would it be less to regear and put on lockers, trusses, gussets etc. to your existing than buying these?

Personally I don't do enough rock crawling to think i'll every break my stock D30 in the front, I'll gusset it and take precautions when I get to that, but i wont replace it if it doesn't break.

jkd3624 08-17-2012 06:57 AM

Well the price for the axles is what I would pay in just labor alone for regearing. Te reason I don't want to regear is because I can't find a shop to do it locally the closest place is 5 hours away and I would be without my jeep for a week and I can't really do that. The advantage to buying the new axles I would have now would just become an spare set of axles Incase I ever broke them. And I can change out axles by myself I can't regear myself. And like u right now I don't do enough trail riding and stuff to justify arbs and the works so this is a cheap easy fix to get away from the open diffs I have now and to build up a d30 so it will take what I do put it through.

SCMatt 08-17-2012 07:45 AM


Originally Posted by jkd3624 (Post 3166766)
Well the price for the axles is what I would pay in just labor alone for regearing. Te reason I don't want to regear is because I can't find a shop to do it locally the closest place is 5 hours away and I would be without my jeep for a week and I can't really do that. The advantage to buying the new axles I would have now would just become an spare set of axles Incase I ever broke them. And I can change out axles by myself I can't regear myself. And like u right now I don't do enough trail riding and stuff to justify arbs and the works so this is a cheap easy fix to get away from the open diffs I have now and to build up a d30 so it will take what I do put it through.

I would argue that if you can change axles yourself you can do the regear, but probably arent comfortable enough to do it which is fine. My biggest caution would be, do you know that the regearing etc. on these axles is done correctly? If you swap out axles and there is an issue with gearing you either have to swap back or have the same issue with being out of your jeep for a week or so, plus extra cost.

If it's that great a deal and you can afford it then go for it.. Heck if you are getting 2 re-geared axles and gussets etc. for less than a regear costs then buy them and if you don't use them sell them for more than you paid for them!

jkd3624 08-17-2012 08:01 AM

Well regearing is more precise that what I capable of these axles are geared with 3.73 from the factory. I know the guys jeep. And he is getting rid of them because he up graded to d44 and d60 so I am sure they are geared right.

Almost There 08-17-2012 08:02 AM

mpg is important, so no axles
money is important, so no axles

deals come and go, and come again - don't fall in love with the deal

a better transfer case is (relatively) inexpensive, won't change mpg and will be useful for wheeling, so yes

jkd3624 08-17-2012 08:37 AM

Well the axles have lms diff in them so. That is worth giving up a little mpg

DanieltheManual 08-17-2012 09:04 AM

Rubicrawler is only for auto tyranny I believe ......Atlas 5to 1 and sell your stock one sounds affordable ....

ChryslerChris 08-17-2012 09:26 AM

Honestly, the best way to solve your issue is buy a good, cheap, fuel-efficient used car as your daily driver and garage the Jeep for weekends and wheeling.

I did that because my daily commute is at least 70 miles each day round trip. Most days I exceed 100 miles/day because of business trips and etc. Absolute murder on the Jeep. Replacing one tire in a jeep can get you four brand new wheels and tires on a small car.

Plus with the price if gas the way it is right now, I drive my used car literally for free since I average 15-18 mpg Better than my Jeep!

Something to think about.

jkd3624 08-17-2012 07:17 PM

Ok. So I have gotten some good answers and some that are honest but bottom line is the above is my approach to build the rig the way I want it so I can keep gearing which will help with my mpg. And get me at lease a lms diff ad then some day soon go to the atlas 2 transfer case for my crawl gears does this approach sound like it will work yes or no


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