Anyone have any tips on removing front passenger shock on 2012? - Page 2

Anyone have any tips on removing front passenger shock on 2012?

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  1. #11
    JK Jedi Master Mark Doiron's Avatar
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    Hmm. I seem to recall the OEM shock having a big nut welded to that stud--no Allen key hole. Some poorly designed aftermarket shocks have the Allen key hole. Bilstein 5100s come to mind. So do Fox shocks. I've assisted installing both, and obviously their engineers ignored maintainability for this install. I wonder what else they ignored? Regardless, other shocks don't have that problem. Rancho comes to mind. Send a message to bad designers: Don't buy their products.

  2. #12
    JK Junkie jadmt's Avatar
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    I'm stupid and I never had a problem installing my 5100's. A short Allen wrench and a box end wrench.
    Last edited by jadmt; 09-26-2016 at 05:49 PM.
    2016 JKR AEV 3.5, toyo 35/12.5-17 on aev saltas and also 285/75-17 Cooper ST Maxx on stock rims. losts of armor

  3. #13
    JK Super Freak Biginboca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
    I'm stupid and I never had a problem installing my 5100's. A short Allen wrench and a box end wrench.
    This! If you can get one of those ratcheting box wrenches even better. And for the "Allen key in the stem shocks" (Bilsteins) you can grind the Allen a little shorter so it fits inside that impossibly small space you have to work inside, lol
    "A fool takes no pleasure in understanding, but only in expressing his opinion."

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  4. #14
    JK Newbie Woody208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattgt5 View Post
    I assume you are talking about the plastic lip that hangs down in front of the top of the shock. honestly, I just snapped it off to get access. it si very brittle plastic and can be snapped off in a clean break. it is only visible if you are changing the shock. Maybe not the best way, but it worked just fine.
    Same way i did it. Gave room to get wrench on top nut.
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  5. #15
    JK Super Freak shabbernigdo's Avatar
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    i took a dremel and made a nice clean cut all along the top of the shock tower and moved the plastic back about an inch or so.

  6. #16
    JK Newbie
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    Default Cone Wrench

    I used my bicycles tools, a Park Tool 16mm cone wrench... super thin wrench which slipped into the small gap aok....


    SCW-16 16mm Shop Cone Wrench | Park Tool

  7. #17
    JK Enthusiast casamtb's Avatar
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    ^ x2 on the bike tools
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  8. #18
    JK Junkie Rednroll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowJK View Post
    The driver side is no problem, The passenger side however is a royal pain in the you know what!!

    Here is your problem. There is no way to get a wrench really up there along with allen key to hold the shaft.




    Here is what I did.
    After some cutting. I used a rag and vice grips to help hold the shaft. I put the vice grips right under the little pit that holes the top of the dust boot up.


    You see that bottom rubber mount on the top of the shock?

    I introduced that to the sharp end of my angle grinder. Cut straight through the rubber and metal rod of the shock. Came off easy. Right tool for the job for a part I'm throwing in the trash and replacing.
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  9. #19
    JK Junkie jeepmojo's Avatar
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    Default cut a slot

    or break off the plastic as others mentioned . Done deal . its only plastic

  10. #20
    JK Junkie rob_engineer's Avatar
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    I just replaced mine two weeks ago. Broke of the plastic. That took all of two seconds. Then I put vice grips in the shaft and turned the nut with a wrench. I didn't have a ratcheting box end, so just did old school 1/4 turn at a time.

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