Anyone have any tips on removing front passenger shock on 2012? - Page 2 - JK-Forum.com - The top destination for Jeep JK Wrangler news, rumors, and discussion

Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Anyone have any tips on removing front passenger shock on 2012?

Reply

 
 
 
Old 09-26-2016, 03:34 PM
  #11  
JK Jedi Master
 
Mark Doiron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Midwest City, OK
Posts: 13,953
Thanked 28 Times in 25 Posts
Default

Hmm. I seem to recall the OEM shock having a big nut welded to that stud--no Allen key hole. Some poorly designed aftermarket shocks have the Allen key hole. Bilstein 5100s come to mind. So do Fox shocks. I've assisted installing both, and obviously their engineers ignored maintainability for this install. I wonder what else they ignored? Regardless, other shocks don't have that problem. Rancho comes to mind. Send a message to bad designers: Don't buy their products.
Mark Doiron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2016, 04:41 PM
  #12  
JK Junkie
 
jadmt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: missoula,mt
Posts: 3,758
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Default

I'm stupid and I never had a problem installing my 5100's. A short Allen wrench and a box end wrench.

Last edited by jadmt; 09-26-2016 at 04:49 PM.
jadmt is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2016, 05:03 PM
  #13  
JK Super Freak
 
Biginboca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 1,127
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
I'm stupid and I never had a problem installing my 5100's. A short Allen wrench and a box end wrench.
This! If you can get one of those ratcheting box wrenches even better. And for the "Allen key in the stem shocks" (Bilsteins) you can grind the Allen a little shorter so it fits inside that impossibly small space you have to work inside, lol
Biginboca is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2016, 05:51 PM
  #14  
JK Newbie
 
Woody208's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 82
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mattgt5 View Post
I assume you are talking about the plastic lip that hangs down in front of the top of the shock. honestly, I just snapped it off to get access. it si very brittle plastic and can be snapped off in a clean break. it is only visible if you are changing the shock. Maybe not the best way, but it worked just fine.
Same way i did it. Gave room to get wrench on top nut.
Woody208 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2016, 08:50 PM
  #15  
JK Super Freak
 
shabbernigdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: missouri
Posts: 1,098
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

i took a dremel and made a nice clean cut all along the top of the shock tower and moved the plastic back about an inch or so.
shabbernigdo is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2017, 04:36 AM
  #16  
JK Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Cone Wrench

I used my bicycles tools, a Park Tool 16mm cone wrench... super thin wrench which slipped into the small gap aok....


SCW-16 16mm Shop Cone Wrench | Park Tool
garyjuergens is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2017, 05:04 AM
  #17  
JK Enthusiast
 
casamtb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: CLE
Posts: 196
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

^ x2 on the bike tools
casamtb is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2017, 12:42 PM
  #18  
JK Junkie
 
Rednroll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,265
Thanks: 0
Thanked 45 Times in 43 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SlowJK View Post
The driver side is no problem, The passenger side however is a royal pain in the you know what!!

Here is your problem. There is no way to get a wrench really up there along with allen key to hold the shaft.




Here is what I did.
After some cutting. I used a rag and vice grips to help hold the shaft. I put the vice grips right under the little pit that holes the top of the dust boot up.


You see that bottom rubber mount on the top of the shock?

I introduced that to the sharp end of my angle grinder. Cut straight through the rubber and metal rod of the shock. Came off easy. Right tool for the job for a part I'm throwing in the trash and replacing.
Rednroll is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2017, 01:41 PM
  #19  
JK Junkie
 
jeepmojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,261
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default cut a slot

or break off the plastic as others mentioned . Done deal . its only plastic
jeepmojo is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2017, 05:37 AM
  #20  
JK Junkie
 
rob_engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: brick, nj
Posts: 2,645
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Default

I just replaced mine two weeks ago. Broke of the plastic. That took all of two seconds. Then I put vice grips in the shaft and turned the nut with a wrench. I didn't have a ratcheting box end, so just did old school 1/4 turn at a time.
rob_engineer is offline  
Reply With Quote

Quick Reply: Anyone have any tips on removing front passenger shock on 2012?


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: