RS9000's on my JK. Tried all the settings but settled on #1 for all four.

See that is why I like the 9000's, you like the "softness" of a 1, I used to run a 3, now I run a 7.
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I have been really happy with my rancho 9000's with my 3.5 RK springs. Way nicer than the bilsteins I had before. For the money especially with the rebates they have, and the 90 day tryout, they are a great shock. I am running 1 all around.

Another vote for the 9000s. Have had them for 2 years now and love them. I started on 3 then went to 5 and running on 6 lately. Love the adjustability of them. Again can't go wrong for $400. Good price.

I've been running the Rancho RS9000XL for just over three years and 40,000 miles. I run (I think) 7 in front and 5 in back. I had to take the adjusters off a couple of years ago because they were getting hard to turn - cleaned off some grime/rust from around the plastic knobs and added some white lithium grease in and around the gasket area. They still work well and the adjustability is awesome. Rancho needs to use a better sealing gasket around those knobs, but otherwise they're great. Recommend installing the rear shocks so the knobs are facing forward for protection.

Attachment 676394Attachment 676395

I really like my Bilstein 5100s.

My stock Rubi shocks played out way too fast. IMHO stock rubi shocks aren't worth the time it takes to change them out. Not that's it's a big job, the shocks aren't that good, and they don't last very long,subs if they were brand new in the box and if they are free, otherwise buy a quaint shock. Bilstein, Rancho, Fox, or the like.

Just a few thoughts on what's been recommended. Bear in mind that you haven't filled out profile info, thus you're going to get some inappropriate answers to your question (we don't know what you have).

1. Rubi shocks aren't appropriate for a lift unless you want adapters for them, limiting articulation.

2. I don't care for the Bilsteins because installing the front passenger reveals that they did not design those shocks for install on a JK. It requires inserting an Allen wrench tool into the top stud, but that is inaccessible on that side unless you either trim some plastic or pull the battery, air box, TIPM and supporting tray. Other shock manufacturers have figured out other designs that don't require this. Trimming the plastic is minor, but what else did Bilstein not bother to engineer for the JK install?

3. I have the Rancho 9000s. They are nice shocks. About that adjustability: Determine what you want, then set it there. Don't expect to come back a year or two later and adjust them again. It's a pretty flimsy, plastic knob and shaft that can easily get frozen into position. And it's exposed to being torn off should you slide that mount off a rock. Also, I ran the basic TF shocks for about 150K miles and when I replaced them they were all still good--no leaks, great pressure. In the last 50K miles I've had to replace two failed Rancho 9000s, one because it was leaking oil (under warranty), and the other because the shaft pulled out of the cylinder (after hitting a deep hole at speed). I'll admit I'm hard on my Jeep, driving sometimes at higher speed on rough, washboard roads, trying to catch up to a group of overlanders I've been shooting as they've gone ahead of me. Or, in the case of the broken shock, trying to catch the every-two-hours ferry across Lake Powell while driving Burr Trail. So, I more consider that broken shock my fault, and likely any shock could have suffered similarly.

https://scontent-dft4-3.xx.fbcdn.net...8b&oe=5ABF681D

Some good points have been brought up by many on here, but like many posts there is often missing info that the reader has to go digging for.

Tire size,amount of lift, intended uses are missing and would be greatly helpful. For some, a Rubi take off might be a good option if not running a lift and heavy tire's. I've been running Terraflex on my 3" lifted heavy JKU sporting 37s and they are okay off road but seems a little soft on road. Some of that is related to my front Currie Antirock as well I'm sure. As they are leaking a bit I'm starting my shock search again.

On the Rancho 9000, is there any reason why you couldn't mount them upside down to protect the adjustment knob from trail damage?

Thanks for the help guys. I’m running a 3.5” lift with 35” toyo tires. My original lift was an RC so ive been slowley changing out the parts and getting the peices it was missing like a drag link flip, and TF front tract bar over the past year. The shocks are pretty much the last component from the origional lift im changing out. Thanks for all the suggestions and advise as I continue to hunt for my new shocks.

They can not be run this way since they are only a slight gas charge and the shock won't work properly.
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