I just installed the same 5100's replacing my RC 2.2's on my rig last week. I had the EXACT same issue. I removed the boot and boot ring, couldn't get the threads started with that ring on. I too wonder if it's absolutely necessary to have that thick boot ring on... So far, my shocks are working fine without the rings.

 

Seems to me if you leave the spacer out you lose 1/2 of drop

 

I took the boot off and left the boot ring on - I thought it was a more sturdy base for the washer and rubber bushing. I had plenty of thread length on the top. Strange indeed!

I replaced a set of 5100's with a longer set and they were both the same - plenty of thread for the top nut.

 

I think everyone's making it more difficult than it is. You can leave the boot on. Take the shock, and install the bottom/axle side first, but dont tighten it. Then raise the axle slowly until the threads -- with a washer and rubber spacer -- pass through the mounting tab. Add the second spacer and washer. There will be VERY little thread showing until you use the weight of the vehicle or plain old muscle to compress the spacers a bit. Once you get the nut started, then you simply hold the nut still with an open-ended wrench, and use the appropriate sized allen key from the top (through the engine bay) to twist the stud, in turn tightening the nut. Tighten as far as your little heart desires -- the rubber spacers will simply continue to smash.

-Adam

 

Exactly! I didn't think this thread was going to be so difficult. I hope a lesson was learned.

 

thank you! this is exactly what I was trying to figure out. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong.

 

Another tip-- the top of the shocks arent immediately reachable through the engine bay. On the passenger side, you have to unbolt and move the plastic box out of the way (pretty sure it was the main fusebox), and on the driver's side there is a small plastic tab that you can snap off to get straight down access to the shock studs. Takes about an extra 10 min of work, but it makes tightening the shocks way easier than using a normal allen wrench.

 

This is the 3rd thread that I have seen on this exact issue with the 5100's
Conclusion was always, put some muscle in to it, crank it down, and they fit.

We have once again, come full circle.

Have 4 5100's at home, waiting to be installed, once my Rock Krawler lift arrives...
Can't wait to deal with this problem, first hand.
Maybe I will make my own thread if i have difficulty ;o)

I will take pics and do a little write-up on the "muscle in and crank down" method.

 

yeah I felt bad having to make a thread, because I was sure it had come up before. I just wanted to make sure because at first glance, it just looks very off, and the lack of instructions to clarify had me dashing to the internet to check! As the kind mr. regan used to say, trust but verify!

 

Heh, now I wish I hadn't heard that. Literally the first thing I did was open the box, remove the boot, remove the strap keeping it compressed. Oh well. I guess if push comes to shove, the boots are like 5 bucks on amazon, and yeah, the shocks are only 75 each